hydro boost issue/problem?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 43
From: maryland
hydro boost issue/problem?
hydro boost problem?
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I have a 2008 f350 with 138k on the clock. the truck had a wet(damp) driver side frame rail in the wheel opening for a bit..... now when I first start the truck the steering wheel will not move and the brake peddle is hard as a rock with no brakes. after warming up the steering and brakes come back but there is a noticeable whine during steering and the brakes are weak and fade---- a large spot has also formed in the driveway and low on fluid..... I am assuming booster pump? is this a dealer mechanic deal or backyard mechanic fix? thanks
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I have a 2008 f350 with 138k on the clock. the truck had a wet(damp) driver side frame rail in the wheel opening for a bit..... now when I first start the truck the steering wheel will not move and the brake peddle is hard as a rock with no brakes. after warming up the steering and brakes come back but there is a noticeable whine during steering and the brakes are weak and fade---- a large spot has also formed in the driveway and low on fluid..... I am assuming booster pump? is this a dealer mechanic deal or backyard mechanic fix? thanks
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
These are my doodle notes I got from another 6.4 owner. It doesn't seem hard to change. In fact he begins with ... its easy.
"its very easy.
MC = master cylinder
-remove the 2 bolts holding master C on to hydroboost
-pull master off the hydro and pust it down out of the way. : MC had flex lines on it so its ok"
-then use 19mm-3/4 open end wrinch and remove the two lines from the hydroboost the black line you can just pull off and set aside.
- then turn yourself insideout and upside down and get under the dash.
- first remove pedel/hydroboost shaft "lock" yellow clamp.
then remove cotterpin and pull shaft off of pedal. " dont forget how it came off there are a few parts and spacers.
then remove the 4 13mm nuts around the hydroboost.
pull booster out from under hood side.
-install new and revers the steps.
-to bleed the Hydro/PS syst
1-lift front tires off ground
2-remove PS resv cap
3- start truck
4- turn lock to lock "full left to full right"
5-DO NOT LET THE resv RUN DRY...
this will take a few mins just take your time and turn it lock to lock and the air will all comeout. it also helps to have another person to fill the revs."
"its very easy.
MC = master cylinder
-remove the 2 bolts holding master C on to hydroboost
-pull master off the hydro and pust it down out of the way. : MC had flex lines on it so its ok"
-then use 19mm-3/4 open end wrinch and remove the two lines from the hydroboost the black line you can just pull off and set aside.
- then turn yourself insideout and upside down and get under the dash.
- first remove pedel/hydroboost shaft "lock" yellow clamp.
then remove cotterpin and pull shaft off of pedal. " dont forget how it came off there are a few parts and spacers.
then remove the 4 13mm nuts around the hydroboost.
pull booster out from under hood side.
-install new and revers the steps.
-to bleed the Hydro/PS syst
1-lift front tires off ground
2-remove PS resv cap
3- start truck
4- turn lock to lock "full left to full right"
5-DO NOT LET THE resv RUN DRY...
this will take a few mins just take your time and turn it lock to lock and the air will all comeout. it also helps to have another person to fill the revs."
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 15,447
Likes: 3
From: Hampstead, NC
First off, just add fluid. Then verify where the leak is, don't replace it just because.
Get it full, have someone hold the steering wheel locked to left or right. Then go look for a leak. Could just be a hose or clamp...
Get it full, have someone hold the steering wheel locked to left or right. Then go look for a leak. Could just be a hose or clamp...
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