Huck Is Replaced - for Gary
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Huck Is Replaced
Well, it was an adventure, but the Huck bolt is now replaced.
Here's what I used: A 2 1/2" Grade 8 bolt, washers, and nut. But, the larger flat washer at 1 3/4" is too big to lay down in the spot on top, so I found a 1 3/16" Grade 8 washer that fit nicely. And, I didn't have to modify the bolt at all as the shank is plenty to go through the three pieces of the frame and stop in the midst of the washers. And, there is plenty of room for the rest of the bolt in the middle of the frame.
As for how I got it together, that was the adventure. The washers and nut have to go on the top and the access is through the triangular opening in the middle of this picture:
So, I put the bolt part way through and laid the washer in with forceps - and missed the bolt. The washer slid into the nether reaches of the frame and was, I thought, lost. So, I got another flat washer and was more careful placing it and the lock washer in. Yes! Then I put the nut in with the forceps - and it slid into the nether reaches of the frame! I could live with a washer in there, but not the nut so I spent an hour fishing around for it. The first thing I found was the washer, and with a VERY strong button magnet held by the forceps I got it out - but lost the magnet.
However, I had another magnet and eventually got the nut out as well - and kept the magnet.
So, the question was how to get the nut in w/o losing it. This is what worked - hot melt glue:
So, now to tighten it up. But, no wrench even close to the right size would consider going through that hole. So, with some fiddling I discovered that the distance between the side of the nut and the frame on the back of the opening is 3/8". I then stuck a piece of 3/8" stock I had and got the bolt tightened to about 150 ft-lbs, at which point the corner of the bolt head cut a groove into the flat stock. But, specs call for 212 ft-lbs on a dry G8 5/8" bolt and I wanted all of it. I finally resorted to a 3/8" lathe tool blank, which is harder than the bolt head. It is now well and truly torqued!
And here's a peek at what is hiding in the midst of the frame:
Here's what I used: A 2 1/2" Grade 8 bolt, washers, and nut. But, the larger flat washer at 1 3/4" is too big to lay down in the spot on top, so I found a 1 3/16" Grade 8 washer that fit nicely. And, I didn't have to modify the bolt at all as the shank is plenty to go through the three pieces of the frame and stop in the midst of the washers. And, there is plenty of room for the rest of the bolt in the middle of the frame.
As for how I got it together, that was the adventure. The washers and nut have to go on the top and the access is through the triangular opening in the middle of this picture:
So, I put the bolt part way through and laid the washer in with forceps - and missed the bolt. The washer slid into the nether reaches of the frame and was, I thought, lost. So, I got another flat washer and was more careful placing it and the lock washer in. Yes! Then I put the nut in with the forceps - and it slid into the nether reaches of the frame! I could live with a washer in there, but not the nut so I spent an hour fishing around for it. The first thing I found was the washer, and with a VERY strong button magnet held by the forceps I got it out - but lost the magnet.
However, I had another magnet and eventually got the nut out as well - and kept the magnet.So, the question was how to get the nut in w/o losing it. This is what worked - hot melt glue:
So, now to tighten it up. But, no wrench even close to the right size would consider going through that hole. So, with some fiddling I discovered that the distance between the side of the nut and the frame on the back of the opening is 3/8". I then stuck a piece of 3/8" stock I had and got the bolt tightened to about 150 ft-lbs, at which point the corner of the bolt head cut a groove into the flat stock. But, specs call for 212 ft-lbs on a dry G8 5/8" bolt and I wanted all of it. I finally resorted to a 3/8" lathe tool blank, which is harder than the bolt head. It is now well and truly torqued!
And here's a peek at what is hiding in the midst of the frame:
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