Hey, so getting at the wiring bundle coming into the PCM looks far easier than getting to the engine distribution box underside or the wiring bundle down there, would need to move or work around the brake fluid reservoir and one of the coolant hard pipes, looks like a bitch.

On the PCM, you just undo the bolt that is apparent and can pull the connector? Any gotchas there?

As far as interrupting the power to the PCM that is ignition switched, I see that there is a splice in there, S151, and two red power feeds to the PCM that are ignition switched via the PCM Power Relay, pins 71 and 97. I'd rather not get a double throw relay just to do this, might look at interrupting power to IDM or interrupting the CPS feed.

Any final suggestions welcome before I go cutting into wiring harnesses

 

This is a great build. I'm wondering if you're planning on carrying a stock of some simple replacement parts and tools with you. These engines, being electronically controlled, will run a very very long time, but there are certain weaknesses in the systems that can leave you stranded.

Many of us, who travel long distances with these vehicles, carry a cache of spare parts "just in case". Durability of these engines is excellent, but reliability of a vehicle that is creeping up on 20 years old, can be a little sketchy. If I was heading into the bush in one, I'd want to have some spare parts with me. There are varying degrees of "kits" that some of us carry, but I think a stock of filter and fluids, along with some spare electronic parts (ICP, IPR, CPS) would be a minimum suggestion. I also carry a spare serpentine belt, an IDM, a PCM, a throttle pedal assembly (it has 2 electronic sensors on it) and a few other parts and pieces I can't recall at the moment. All of this in my truck takes up just a corner of my in-bed toolbox (maybe a 2 cubic foot space). I would highly recommend you consider doing the same. Sure it will probably set you back a few hundred bucks, but especially where you're heading, it could save you days or weeks of downtime. Maybe you've already considered it, but I just want to make sure.

 

Yes, one 10mm bolt holds the PCM connector in then it just pulls out.

I guess I never noticed before you mentioned it that the power goes in to the PCM on 2 separate pins (71 and 97). I'm betting if you interrupted pin 70 (IDM Enable Output) it would yield the desired effect as well. In that case, it would also provide less clue as to what is going on because the gauges would power up and everything would look as it normally would, it just won't fire fuel...

 

Yeah I still wonder if CPS input or IDM output would be better, and if either would result in code throwing, like injector failure codes or a CPS failure code. Anyone out there had the CPS crap out and recall if it sets a code? I know it will certainly stall the engine from what I've read.

As far as spares, we have a spare valve cover gasket and the two little wiring harnesses in case that craps out, could be really hard to get those parts. Have extra filters and a belt. The hoses are all in pretty good shape, had been replaced not too long back, most everything that I can check and that a good diesel mechanic went over is in good shape. Replaced the CPS already with the new style one. I guess it wouldn't hurt to carry a few more sensors... appreciate the tip I'll look into a few more bits and pieces.

While on that topic, what do folks think of the hose repair tapes? I have some gasket maker and some epoxies and steel stick and the like, but I've never had a wrecked hose so I've never tested any of the hose repair tapes, was going to take some but have no experience or don't know if there is a "best" or "most loved" product...

 

Cutting the signal from the CPS completely will set a code, I believe. Plus without the CPS there will be no signal to the tachometer, which won't make it look like everything is working. If you cut the signal to the IDM I think everything will look like it should, it just won't run because the injectors won't spray fuel.

I would get another CPS and toss it in your kit. I'd also add ICP and IPR to your "must have" list. You can change the ICP easily enough but make sure you have a socket deep enough to change the IPR if you get one. Having the part and no tools is almost as bad as not having the part.

I don't have much experience with the hose repair tape. I've considered throwing a roll of it in the tool kit as well. I've heard some good things about it on some of the off-roading sites. Not sure which one is best though.

 

With your planned route of travel I would carry everything Nate suggested.
I would throw a starter relay in there as well.

 

Hey Bill, in case you never saw: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rosew...83831708383067

I am guessing expense? Brand new they add $10k to $12k to the cost I think.
Or maybe because the average motor home user isn't diesel savey and it's easier to fuel up with gas. Not sure, but there aren't many on the road.

As for kill switch. One truck I have a hidden switch that interupts the TPS. So you could start the truck but it won't go far with no throttle.
Another truck I intercepted the BOO switch. You can't get it out of park.
Both of the above let me keep the truck idling while I run into the store, etc for a few minutes and know the truck will be warm when I come back out (winters here are realistically 7 months out of the year).
If you need to leave the van run, I highly recommend the BOO switch mod.
When someone tries to move my truck and it won't go out of park, and I hop in and don't have any issue, I tell them that there's a weight sensor in the seat and it won't move unless my butt is sitting there.

 

LOL. You shouldn't instigate him Jim.

 

Easy override - unlock the steering column with igniton circuit OFF, shift to neutral, then start the truck. Thief drives away with no brake lights and gets rear-ended. Hmmmm, who would be on the hook legally for that one?......

 

Thief in a hurry would never think of that, they'd hop out and move on. The longer it takes to get away, the less chance they will get your truck.

 

Why go through all this trouble? Wouldn't an push to start button that requires the key and the fob to be inside the truck to start be the easiest way to keep the truck from starting? Sort of like a safety interlock system? Or is this basically what you are building here?

 

Heya folks,

Thanks again for the tips on parts. I understand (kind of) Ford parts numbering. On the CPS there are the three versions, the newest is the -C that is blue I gather.

On the IPR, I see a $132 1998 part that is a -AB revision, or about $200 for newer parts with -AA or -CA revisions... advice / thoughts here?

For the ICP I can get a 96 part with a -A or an 03 part with a -EA or others for about the same price... I assume the newer is better?

A new and different world than 4 cylinder Toyota pickups

 

While on that topic, what do folks think of the hose repair tapes? I have some gasket maker and some epoxies and steel stick and the like, but I've never had a wrecked hose so I've never tested any of the hose repair tapes, was going to take some but have no experience or don't know if there is a "best" or "most loved" product...[/QUOTE]

[I don't have much experience with the hose repair tape. I've considered throwing a roll of it in the tool kit as well. I've heard some good things about it on some of the off-roading sites. Not sure which one is best though.[/QUOTE]

I haVE HAd smeo experiaNCE WITH THIS PRODUCT, A couple of yeaRS Ago we haD THE LArge pressure hose split open ON A JET SKI aND THOUGHT WE WERE DONE TILL WE GOT Another hose $150. I haD PURCHAse sOme of this stuff aT A RV SHOW demo.
The video gives smeo good exAMPLES of SOME OF THE USES. THERE Are other braNDS AvaILAble. this vidio exMPLE OF sme o of the uses.
(still using the repaRED HOSE GOING ON TWO YEArs now)
Sorry aBOUT THE TYPING i SPILLED WAter on my laPTOP KEYBORD (MaYBE IT WAs JaCK DANIAls)
__________________
Rich-97 F350 SC Dually long bed 2wd, 5 speed, 410's, 145000 : 6637 intake filter, Tymar 3" down pipe, cat delete, IDM 140v, Digital pyro gauge, Rosewood Stage 1's, FPR shim, CCV mod. Valair 400 HP Organic Clutch, GPR manual momentary switch, Superchip 1700 tuner/programer.
To do would be install 6.0 intercooler (need pipes and boots)

 

You can break one of the IPR wires with a hidden switch. With the IPR not functioning the truck will never start. It will throw a CEL though but go away when switch is activated.

 

There are so many nooks and crannies to put that switch too. Especially If you are a man who loves his array of switches.