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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Alternator Woes

So I have been chasing a problem with the truck. If I move the plow around too much with the lights and heater on I wind up killing the battery.

Finally got a load test done and the alternator has bad diods.

it is a stock Xl with no options except the plow and AC I believe the stock alternator is a 110amp I am looking at the 130amp from NAPA. Does anyone have any opinions on this? It should fit?


Thanks
G
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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Get the biggest amperage alternator you can get. Napa will get you one that will fit no problem. Go extra heavy duty if at all possible.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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glennemay just having a 100% alternator will help. Do you have more information on model year, engine, (this will determine single or dual battery setup), I too have been thinking on alternator upgrade just haven't jumped on it yet. Let us know what you did and how it turned out.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sgarder
glennemay just having a 100% alternator will help. Do you have more information on model year, engine, (this will determine single or dual battery setup), I too have been thinking on alternator upgrade just haven't jumped on it yet. Let us know what you did and how it turned out.
So,

The truck is a 2004 6.8l V10 Crew cab F350 DRW 8' bed. It is an XL model with only AC as an option (Florida Truck)


I went ahead and popped the new alternator in it tonight and treated her to a brand new belt.

Defintely see an increase in voltage on the OBD. EXCEPT. When I whack around the plow, I still drop to 11.2v. WTF!!!

Anyone know if there is a way to determine what a Fisher MM1 plow is drawing?


Thanks
G
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 11:03 PM
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You are going to get voltage drop when you put a good sized load on the system. Also keep in mind, at idle the alternator is not putting out its maximum. Also if you did not replace the battery at least throw the old one on the battery charger to make sure it is charged up.

The 04' trucks were offered with two alternators. The 6G small case and the 3G large case. The 3G puts out more and is capable of higher output with upgrades. I rebuild my own alternators but places like alternatorparts.com sell upgraded alternators with amp output up to over double stock.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dkf
You are going to get voltage drop when you put a good sized load on the system. Also keep in mind, at idle the alternator is not putting out its maximum. Also if you did not replace the battery at least throw the old one on the battery charger to make sure it is charged up.

The 04' trucks were offered with two alternators. The 6G small case and the 3G large case. The 3G puts out more and is capable of higher output with upgrades. I rebuild my own alternators but places like alternatorparts.com sell upgraded alternators with amp output up to over double stock.
The alternator is larger than the stock. I pulled a 110a alternator out of the truck and replaced it with NAPA's 130a Premium. And yes a majority of the work with the plow is done at Idle. Normally moving the blade while pushing snow up into a pile. I will slap the battery on a charger tonight. Have a couple of hours before the white crap starts flying again.


I would like to know if the plow is pulling what should be, or more however. Since it is an electric motor, anything is possible of course.



G
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 05:58 AM
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Getting a larger battery or adding a second battery will help also. Think of it this way, when you are not moving the plow, the alternator is putting out current which is stored in the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the current being produced has nowhere to go. When you do something that demands current, the battery takes most of the load. The alternator will contribute what it can, but it is the battery that stores the energy and releases it when needed.

Basically, get a bigger storage tank so you can hold more power. It will be available when you need it.

Also, it is vitally important to closely inspect the connections to your battery, grounds, and the electrical connections to your plow. If there is any sign of dirty or corroded connections, fix them. A bad connection anywhere in the circuit can easily double the electrical load of a device.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 08:29 AM
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the diodes are blowing due to peak start up loads . Putting in a second battery helps with peak startup loads. 2 batteries will help with the peak load and charge when the load is off peak.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by redford
Getting a larger battery or adding a second battery will help also. Think of it this way, when you are not moving the plow, the alternator is putting out current which is stored in the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the current being produced has nowhere to go. When you do something that demands current, the battery takes most of the load. The alternator will contribute what it can, but it is the battery that stores the energy and releases it when needed.

Basically, get a bigger storage tank so you can hold more power. It will be available when you need it.

Also, it is vitally important to closely inspect the connections to your battery, grounds, and the electrical connections to your plow. If there is any sign of dirty or corroded connections, fix them. A bad connection anywhere in the circuit can easily double the electrical load of a device.
Thank You.


it makes sense to me. I had been considering the second battery for some time, although it really only gets bad when the plow is on. otherwise it is pretty decent.

I have cleaned up the connections. Although they looked OK (Albeit they had some corrosion on them) I will do some more to clean at them


Is there a brush made that will clean the male and female ends of these plugs?

I will have a chance to see it better in the daylight tomorrow morning no matter how I slice this. Everything I do is in the dark due to work.


If anyone has a good place to put the second battery in the Truck that would be awesome. For a big truck, I have no damn room under the hood.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
the diodes are blowing due to peak start up loads . Putting in a second battery helps with peak startup loads. 2 batteries will help with the peak load and charge when the load is off peak.


News to me. I didnt realize that is what causes the Diodes to blow. I suppose I should go ahead and get the second battery in ASAP.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by glennemay
Thank You.


it makes sense to me. I had been considering the second battery for some time, although it really only gets bad when the plow is on. otherwise it is pretty decent.

I have cleaned up the connections. Although they looked OK (Albeit they had some corrosion on them) I will do some more to clean at them


Is there a brush made that will clean the male and female ends of these plugs?

I will have a chance to see it better in the daylight tomorrow morning no matter how I slice this. Everything I do is in the dark due to work.


If anyone has a good place to put the second battery in the Truck that would be awesome. For a big truck, I have no damn room under the hood.
Some water and backing soda mix and small brush can help to get off corrosion and neutralize any acid.

Here is a dual battery kit for the SD. Dirty Parts

A battery would fit next to the air filter assembly on the drivers side if the evap canister is moved.

Just don't do what this guy did and remove the evap canister, it is there for a reason. http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=74448
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 07:22 PM
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What is the factory option, for a dual battery setup?
Is it available?

I have a factory dual battery in my E-350 and the battery box is hidden under the passenger side rear, by the frame.
Not so easy to get to.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dkf
Some water and backing soda mix and small brush can help to get off corrosion and neutralize any acid.
I cleaned them up with an electrical cleaner spray. Definitely took some crud off, although it was very much a surface thing Didnt make a change as to the draw hit when I move it.



Originally Posted by dkf
Just don't do what this guy did and remove the evap canister, it is there for a reason. http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=74448
I saw that posting. Still wonder if the evap canister is actually needed for anything, or if it is simply an EPA "We gotta have it" BS that means nothing.

I had one on my old Ranger (1983) that was rotted completely off Truck was still an ox for it's size and never seemed to miss it.

Of course I was 18. Not sure if I really cared. lol
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 12:28 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ligito
What is the factory option, for a dual battery setup? Is it available? I have a factory dual battery in my E-350 and the battery box is hidden under the passenger side rear, by the frame. Not so easy to get to.
Diesel trucks have 2 batteries stock
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 01:55 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by glennemay
So,

The truck is a 2004 6.8l V10 Crew cab F350 DRW 8' bed. It is an XL model with only AC as an option (Florida Truck)


I went ahead and popped the new alternator in it tonight and treated her to a brand new belt.

Defintely see an increase in voltage on the OBD. EXCEPT. When I whack around the plow, I still drop to 11.2v. WTF!!!

Anyone know if there is a way to determine what a Fisher MM1 plow is drawing?


Thanks
G
When the load draws more current then the alternator can output then the source becomes the battery. You are monitoring V+ or source voltage. This happen to our trucks during start up and the glow plugs are on, they draw more then the alternator can put out so the source is the batteries until the glow plugs turn off.

DC power makes some high amp alternators for our trucks.

.
 
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