clutch replacement
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New User
Joined: Jan 2015
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clutch replacement
'79 f 150, 4 wd, 300i6 needs a clutch and a main seal. Would it be easier to pull the motor for this job or drop the transfer case and clutch out the bottom? Backyard mechanic with no special tools. Tools will borrowed or rented. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 609
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From: Stockholm, NJ
I second that. I did it backwards. I pulled the transfer case, then the transmission, then the front clip and then the engine (to be fair, I originally thought all I was doing was replacing the clutch, and not a semi-frame off restoration). Getting them out is nothing compared to trying to get them back in. Now I know that if I ever need to get to a clutch in a dentside, I'm pulling the front clip and engine.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Freeze plugs aka knock out plugs, on the side and maybe one on the back of the block? I do not know 6 cly's that well. And maybe motor mounts?
Make sure you are replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing, it usually come like that in a box.
Resurface your fly wheel too, with a palm sander...
Make sure you are replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing, it usually come like that in a box.
Resurface your fly wheel too, with a palm sander...
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 609
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From: Stockholm, NJ
pilot bearing/bushing as well
I'm warning you, it can be a slippery slope...
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 656
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From: Salisbury, PA
Have you tried to see home how to's of replacing the rear seal with the engine still in the vehicle? Pulling an engine is just a pain in my opinion. The easiest and quickest way to drop the transmission and transfer case is to remove the tunnel cover in the cab and place an engine hoist into the cab, wrap a strap or chain around the transmission and/or transfer case. This way you can get underneath and pull the transmission out enough to get the input shaft out of the bell housing and then just lower it to the ground. I just did this all by myself with an NV4500/NP241 this weekend. Works just as easy putting it all back in. Took an hour tops. Make sure to replace the throwing bearing and pilot bearing.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Yes I forgot to mention the pilot bushing it should come with the rest in the box, and a alignment tool.
16 bolts complete front clip off in 25 min or less with help. Then the motor 15 min, brace the trans so it is straight/level or up slightly. Leave the trans and xfer case where it is. heavy heavy heavy
Here is a walk thru for the front clip removal..https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
16 bolts complete front clip off in 25 min or less with help. Then the motor 15 min, brace the trans so it is straight/level or up slightly. Leave the trans and xfer case where it is. heavy heavy heavy
Here is a walk thru for the front clip removal..https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 387
Likes: 25
When I changed the clutch in my 79 F150 4X4 (400 engine) I pulled the engine. It just seemed easier than dropping the transmission & transfer case. I had also removed the engine before so I had some practice under my belt. Easy in my opinion.
A couple of other things to inspect/replace while you have it apart would be the transmission input shaft seal and the ring gear. In a pinch, the ring gear can be removed, flipped over and re-installed on the flywheel (I did it on my 1979/400). And yes, a new ring gear is best.
A couple of other things to inspect/replace while you have it apart would be the transmission input shaft seal and the ring gear. In a pinch, the ring gear can be removed, flipped over and re-installed on the flywheel (I did it on my 1979/400). And yes, a new ring gear is best.
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