Thanks for the link, will check them out. Why do you suggest these coils? They are still made in China....Took truck to 2 shops in town today, neither place was able to pull any codes. The 2nd shop i trust more and he told me ford has an issue with the cop's going bad...so i see 0 reason to pay 46 and some change for a coil...he told me to just put a good one on and move it around. Im thinking i just change them all in less time and spend the time i saved drinking a few cold ones. Will try the water bottle trick tomorrow though.

 

I'm curious to know if you cleaned and gapped the plugs before OR after you did the seafoam through the brake booster. It is recommended that you seafoam before a plug change because of all the cleaning the seafoam does, can foul plugs out. Just a thought.

 

Seafoam was before the plug change. Again im no master mechanic....but thats common sense lol...thanks for asking tho, i know alot of people have no common sense.

 

On another note, I would never use seafoam on any vehicle I owned... Works great on 2 stroke engines.... Look up how much pale oil is in seafoam. It is basically pale oil, Naphtha and alcohol. Pale oil "lubricates", Naphtha is the "ignition source", and alcohol is the "water remover".

Look up how Tanks make smoke screens, they use oil, this is basically all Seafoam is doing IMO. There are much better alternatives with scientific results.

Stick with Techron, Regane, or BG 44k.

If I ever ran seafoam in my car engine I would perform an oil change and fuel filter change after. After these products go through your valves down your heads they enter your bottom end, your bottom end contains all your engine oil... These products then loosen up the grime that may have been built in the rotating assembly... After running a tank of this stuff an oil change would be necessary IMO.

Take this at face value and do your own research.. Just not a product I would use in a car.

Also on another note.... Depending how much carbon was built up in the fuel lines you could be experiencing carbon deposits in your injector screens, causing your injectors to flow less or some not at all. That's why I suggested checking your Fuel Pressure a little earlier... cleaner products work great on newer cars, or cars that have had fuel additives added on a regular basis, but vehicles that haven't had this done can build up quite a bit of carbon and those deposits can then get loosened by the cleaning process and get stuck in your fuel rail, injector screens etc...

 

Thanks for the info. I am pretty sure its a coil or spark plug issue. I ordered some coils that should be in a few days. I will replace 1 at a time until i find the culprit. I was wondering if i fouled a plug (s) or an injector was clogged, so if this doesnt work thats where ill look next.

on another note, drove to work today (15 miles) and thw truck ran fine. Slight miss at idle, but not near as bad as it was. The power seemed improved going through the gears and its not missing as bad.

 

Good deal, hopefully it clears up for you. Sounds like it was a cause of the cleaning with seafoam to me... If it just naturally continues to get better, it may have just been a deposit of carbon buildup getting stuck somewhere.

 

Thank you for the help, will be reporting back with updates in case someone else runs into this.

 

I had a similar experience with my 99 V10 when I first bought it. I found that 6 of my 10 coils had significant cracks in them. I ended up going with coils from uneeksupply and had great service from them.

Here is a shot of my damaged coils




The coils from UneekSupply were branded "Empyrean"

Here is a shot of the new coils





I found the UneekSupply coils recommended on the 5.4 forum so I went with them. Good stuff. They will go on my TownCar if I need new coils as well.

Just pull the boots off and make sure the springs are properly seated in the coil. I recommend doing that with any replacement coil though.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

 

Ok, well i hit a roadblock.

1 of the cop bolt heads snapped right off. There is a decent stub still sticking out so i though vice grips would get er done.....not so much.

I cant get that damn stud backed out for nothing! Sprayed some penetrating oil on it and let it sit, still no luck.

Started looking online for a 4mm stud extractor thats the socket type, and boy are those pricey!


Anyone have a suggestion? I may try to use my propane torch and add a little heat to it, with all the wires around though im not sure its the best option.

 

Depending how many threads are left would determine if this will work. Go to hardware store and get two nuts that fit that thread pitch. Screw them down and then back up the bottom nut into the top nut, then crank down the top nut. Then use the bottom nut to back out the stud.


Get a welder or a shop to weld a nut to the stud, use a wrench and back out the stud.

 

Threads are boogered from using the vice grips. Cant get a nut on it. I will try some heat and if no luck fire up the welder.

 

Well i never could get the old bolt out from that coil.

On another note, pulled plugs back out. Installed all new this time gapped at .052-.056. Put 10 brand new coils on and its running like a champ now.

once i get time i plan on testing the coils and finding the culprit.

thanks to all for the advice.

 

What coils did you end up going with?

 

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=141212843120&alt=web


I spent hours looking at reviews and ratings, and he is about the best. Real smooth transaction.

i will update this thread with my review of his product.

 

$5 each? Wow. That one won't work on my 1999.