I went to roll down my driver power window on my 2002 E-350 and I heard something break inside! I've pulled the panel and the plastic cover. I've loosened the track bolts drilled out the window slide bar that the cable runs up and down but can't get the window out! The cable sheath is loose. In other words it's as if the cable was too long for the sheath! I can't figure it out because the cable is still attached to the window and will wind and unwind on the motor but with difficulty. I assume something broke in the motor pulley or motor? Please any help have to take a trip in the middle of the week I will post a pic and answer any 5 link

4x4 conversion questions people may have as soon as I can get my window fixed!

 

buy a new regulator

 

Thanks that helped alot!

 

But, that's the correct answer.
The gear strips inside the motor gear box or the control cable strips, replacing the entire assembly is the answer.

Window Regulator and Motor are a complete unit, and less than $70.




You wrote that you can't get the window out??
What, the glass or the entire assembly??

If your trying to remove the glass, you need to remove the in/out wipes.

Side note, the van is easier to fix than the Cherokee, more room to work on it, and you don't have to deal with the "vent" window, take it from someone whom works on Ford vans and them Jeep products only.

 

This from someone actually in the auto glass biz---------take it or leave it, no time for arguments from someone needing help but won't listen..........

Replacing the regulator with a new part is the only way to go. New from Ford they're less than $130, aftermarket should be less price and quality---your choice there.

There is no need to remove the glass in order to replace the regulator. Drilling out four 1/4" dia aluminum rivets holding the regulator to the door shell, drilling out two rivets from the regulator assembly to the factory mounted metal attaching piece on the glass also necessary.

Without a bit of knowledge or maximum patience here, high risk of breaking the glass otherwise. The steel "nails" or mandrels inside the glass rivets need to be punched out before drilling here starts. Glass must be supported on the backside to prevent it bouncing and flexing (breaking) which those mandrels are driven out with a center punch or something similar. Repeated sharp but SOFT blows with a SMALL steel hammer tend to remove them.

Tape window in place to prevent it from sliding downward as regulators are swapped. Having paid attention to how they fit together first attach the regulator to the door shell with proper Tri-Split aluminum rivets OR 1/4-20 x 3/4" long hex head bolts and NyLok nuts.

Once regulator is in place lower window to fit into the regulator arm, attach also with 1/4-20 bolts, 1/2" or 3/4" length both acceptable. These holes may need to be drilled out to 9/32" or hogged out with a 1/4" bit so bolts fit.

Tighten all bolts, reconnect power connection if necessary and all should be good to go.

 

I just replaced my driver's window regulator a couple weeks ago and mine was exactly how you described with the cable out of the sheath. I bought a AC Delco(import) regulator from Amazon. It's exactly how JWA described. I used a shim to hold the window instead of tape, because I found I needed to put the window in a couple of different positions to complete the task. Here's some instructions from Dorman, but based on online reviews of the Dorman regulator and past experience with Dorman parts, I would suggest going with another brand.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/Digita...741-586_IS.pdf

My hands are pretty much healed up from all the cuts and scrapes from working inside the door.

 

It's only after doing a few and suffering those same injuries we learn what NOT to do!

 

Believe me I am a no punches pulled type of guy if someone ask a stupid question, but a one sentence answer I could have gotten from a 5 year old child! I did not ARGUE, whine or berate the replier, I merely stated that other than the obvious action of replacing the mechanism I was asking for tips on getting the window out. I already had die grinded the rivets off the window/door bracket and removed the 2 nuts. It is obvious that I had to separate the window from the frame but I was trying to see if some one had a different trick on the subject without having to remove the factory rivets off the glass! I have repaired windows/motors in pickups, Range Rover, Scion XB and Jeep XJ"s (for the all knowing in case you don't know Cherokee). I have never come across a working motor that would still recoil and release the cables. Some of the other windows I've repaired were lever with a motor driving a gear. So with that said I willow bow out gracefully and leave you guys to use your torturous rude comments and all know knowledge to the un-informed! I have a window to fix! I will however edit the post if I can or ask membership to remove it as to not intimidate others that might be asking for tips from posting for help!

 

Thanks your reply that was more of what I was looking for! I had done pretty much everything in your instructions from past experience. I just did not want to drill the window rivets out so I was looking for another way! When I was younger I would have just drilled them out, but with the Net and information available I was thinking that there may be another way on line! In no way is this intended bragging but I think I am more than capable of such repair having done others as well as the 5 link conversion to 4wd on my van (not my first conversion other vehicle over the years) racing Baja, La Rana high dessert, super 1600 in Mickey Thompson stadium racing put V8's in 6cyl Jep CJ, XJ's and not to mention building my own home!
My point is that people don't know others past so to assume has become over indulged on the internet. I appreciate your response tremendously and hopefully you have set an example of how responses should be made!

 

Re-read your own opening post wherein none of this follow-up info now stated is mentioned. Had this been part of the OP the replies would have directly addressed questions how best to proceed.

Its tough answering general or unclear questions, much better to ask directly what info is needed or required.

If that's hurtful or seems rude the onus for replies tends to fall upon those providing too little opening information. Didn't mean to dismiss all those unrevealed skills or tool availability but we're not mind readers here.

 

But you already knew the answer.

 

Ah, yea...........Obvious the OP has spent too much time on JeepFourm.

 

No offense was taken. I merely stated the fact that a one sentence response was a poor effort into addressing the reply for help. I commended the person of the third reply that DID respond the call for help with helpfull info. Your defense of the one sentence post with these follow up post is merely a poor attempt into justifying the poor response or action in which you responded to me the OP. It is apparent in the fact that you try to pass the blame to me the OP. In not having posted enough information. A simple "you are going to have to replace the whole unit and here's a link that can help! That is a civil and courteous response to a new member! But I'm sure you will find fault in that recomendation and point the finger to some other item I should have done or said to pass the buck on your short Cummings! Good day!

 

Obviously we're not reading the same thread dude.

Whether new or long term member my was and remains poorly thought out questions tend to result in answers maybe not all that helpful. The fact someone replies with something is positive but again if that doesn't address an unknown or unstated problem question bantering what's rude, helpful, off putting or anything else is moot.

Again, look to the opening post and keep in mind what follows are fitting replies. Only after additional info is added do we seem to satisfy after-the-fact whatever question was assumed to be known.

 

I did read it and I appologize that it was not written in the length of a novel with a description in chronilogical order of the exact time and location of when every procedure in the attempted removal of the window was mentioned. The post has multiple sentences describing enough of the situation to the merit more than a one sentence answer hence the respond of another member with more than buy a new one! It obviously futile to continue a conversation with a person that would argue that a stop sign is maroon when all else say red!