Well, I just asked in the OT thread if you did the swap yet.....guess this answers my question! LOL! The e-locker in the front is a good idea. You definitely wanna be able to completely unlock it for any 4hi highway driving you may need to do, but then be able to lock it up when you need it. Like maybe when pulling a Dodge out of mud hole or something

 

I'm slowly starting down this road myself. Im in the same boat as you, 4.10 axle, 3.55 truck. I would really like to keep my 3.55s, so I think 're gearing the front is the road I'm going to go.

I got mine from Bill, it was mostly complete, even came with the blocks for the back but it was missing the drive shaft. I've got one now, but now the only thing holding,me up from proceding right now is my trans. Its going to need to be addressed before I go on. The 50 is working fine for now (better be just rebuilt it all minus pivot bushings) so it will stay.

Good to see you on here, keep us posted with progress!

 

Okay, the shop should be done with my axle Monday or Tuesday. I went ahead and asked them to do the kingpins, because it's probably less frustrating for me to pick up an extra shift at work than to do it myself.

Besides that, I'm still waiting for my RSK kit to arrive from PMF, which is fine, since I opted for the powder coated finish, which I knew would cause some additional delay.

In the meantime, I need to decide between U code or V code springs. I'm leaning towards U's, based on a recommendation from a friend. I've got my eye on Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts | SD Truck Springs for these. I'm welcome to suggestions on springs and/or suppliers, though.

 

I have U codes, and it sits dang near perfectly level with the B codes in the rear with the F350 4x4 4" blocks. With V codes the front will sit an inch or two higher. Best way to compare heights between trucks is shock length.

With U codes my front shock length is about 21-1/2".

 

Unless something radically changes my mind, I'll get U codes, also.

 

I did order U-code springs. They're in the mail. Currently waiting on more money for parts, haha.

That pic is after I got it back from the shop. The e-locker is installed.

 

I assume you are doing an RSK of some kind too Joseph? Which one are you going with?

 

I'm going to use a 2.25" PMF RSK. It's in my garage waiting for me to get parts and time to put them on. Haha

I'll post pictures when I get a chance. It's very nice. I got one with a receiver and tow hooks. I may never use them, but I like the idea of having the option available. I'm all about options.

 

Very cool. That should work out good for you. It was a pretty fun job when I did mine.

 

I use my front receiver all of the time. Makes moving my trailer into tricky spots very easy. A bonus is that the cross member is thicker too when these options are selected. I don't know how much weight or hard hard I'd pull on them though.

 

I finally found some time to work on this the past couple of days. I got the hubs together and installed them. I also installed the hub lockouts. I put wheels and tires on it so that I can wheel it around the garage. I hope to have it underneath the truck by the end of next week.

 

This was neat to read. Mind if I ask what your cost on the locker was?

 

A little over $900 after tax. And then I had a local shop install it at an additional cost.

Just an update. I'm having a bunch of complications during this swap. Hopefully I can finish it today.

 

By the way, it appears that my driveshaft is going to work with the 1990 front Dana 60. It looks as though it will just need to be shortened.

I have the Dana 50 out, and now I just need to sort out a couple of complications before I'm ready to install the RSK and Dana 60. Does anyone have any tips for removing the rear bolts through the front leaf springs? I'm having a heck of a time. I got the nuts off no problem, but I can't seem to get the bolt out of there. Like, HARD swings with a sledgehammer have no effect at all. Tomorrow night, I'm going to try turning the bolt head while a buddy hits it with a sledge. Unless anybody else has suggestions, that is.

I cut the driver side one out, but it was a pain in the butt and took a long time. I can do it again, I guess, but I'd rather figure out an easier solution.

 

You are just looking to throw money away by doing that. Get the F350 front cardian shaft and accompanying yoke and be DONE