Greetings,

I own a 94’ F-250 4X4 with a 7.3 IDI w/ATS waste gated turbo . I just bought this truck 6 months ago to pull my race car. I have experience with turbo chargers for the most part and have super tweaked me Subaru WRX however fact that my truck is a diesel do not know is the same rules apply. I’m new to diesel performance and am trying to get up to speed.

“Same rules apply” Meaning issues commonly found in gas turbo systems such as donation, ping, knock retarding thus needing higher Octane rating or water injection perhaps both, Intercooler size flow volume and max PSI allowed. In the diesel world what is this equivalent too.

I do not believe I have an intercooler only because I think I would have noticed it since they are huge with these trucks. I run 48 or 50 Cetane fuel rating in my diesel when possible but not all places list it on the pump some so times I may use a cetane booster additive if diesel grade is 43 - 45. My question is since this is a wastegated turbo I’m wanting to add a Manual Boost controller (MBC) to bring on boost sooner \ stronger and am wanting to know what the factory PSI is at different RPM’s and want the Max PSI can safely be adjusted to at around 2500 RPM’s. I would also like to maintain between 18-20 MPG if possible under normal driving and If I decide to lay on it than I’m will to sacrifice mileage to 14 – 16. Ideally like with my turbo cars I have a dual stage MBC that I can activate via switch when needed. In may car I have two settings low and high boost and can switch between them when desired.

Any advice would be appreciated as I’m going through a learning curve.

Oh and one more question how can one increase the amount of fuel injected via injector pump, Is there a company out there that a higher volume IDI pump?

 

No advice huh.......Well then I guess I'll be the first to find out. I installed a EGT and boost gauge and am logging behavior patterns shift point etc. In addition will be installing a MBC with bleed valve adjustment. Another option opposed to the MBC is too shorten the actuator rod to the wastegate and make it adjustable. Since there is no computer to deal with I plan to adjust the timing to its sweet spot what ever that is. Last I will be putting 3” exhaust with glass packs.

Propane will be a last resort and am trying to figure out a way to add more fuel with increased boost and RPM’s and as of yet do not know the optimum efficiency range of my ATS wasted turbo increasing boost may be moot on this compressor housing. Perhaps a call to them is all I need.

I wonder is there is a way to add an additional injector of some sort to dump more diesel activated through a relay when a RPM and boost range is met. I have done this with other gas turbos a nitrous oxide implementations in the past.

I'll post my findings with-in the nex two weeks

 

why are you trying to compare a gas burner to an oil burner?
if you plan to adjust the length of the waste gate valve, you better look things over pretty well. I'm not trying to be smart but .... you just cant compare apples and oranges. And that is the difference tween gas and diesel .

 

One big thing... with a diesel A/F ratio isn't criticial. More more=more power, more air=cooler EGTs. What are you looking for, more power? Better mileage?

 

Ok, forget about the MBC, you really don't need it here. You'll need to put in boost and pyro gauges. The pyro has to go in the up-pipe before the turbine, and the boost gauge can go right into the compressor pressure outlet. Get those two gauges installed, MOST important, before you go forward with any mods.

Next, hang some 3.5 or 4 inch exaust, no muffler, and try to address the issue with the factory downpipe, (squished under cab flange) unless it was already changed with the ATS setup.

Next, You have to do something about that airbox, either duct it down low to get some fresh air forced in, or take it off and scrap it for the alluminum, and put a tight 90deg elbow right on the compressor inlet, then a short straight piece, with a 3/4 inch tube welded to the side for the CDR valve, then into an enclosed cone, then duct that down near the bumper for some fresh air lovin.

After all this is done, you can go after the fuel rate, which is easy to turn up, but don't do it until you get these other things done.

As far as detonation is concerned, these things pretty much RUN on detonation, if you don't have enough fuel, it won't make power. A cetane booster is ok, but look for Stanadyne additive and dump that in the tank once and a while.

I did the above to my rig, and haven't had the wastegate hooked up in a loooonnngg time with no ill side effects, but I also drive by the boost and pyro. When the boost gets up around 12-14lbs, just back off the throttle a hair to keep the head gaskets under the heads. I have the factory Garrett on this truck, and it hasn't blown up yet, 400 miles a week at 8100lbs and three times a week with a 3000lb trailer and 7500lb Ditch Witch RT70 in tow, so far, so good.

 

Freight Train,

Thank you so much, this was what I was looking for to get me going in the right direction. I will take your advice and have a couple more question if you don't mind could reply on.

4" exhaust without a muffler I bet it sounds great. Not so much me but will my neighbors start hating me for the noise or is it tolerable at low rpm at 15Mph to get me of my street?

as far as low cost exhause kits does anybody have a preference there are so many out there. Million dollor question does 94 and up 7.3 powerstoke exhaust kit bolt up to our IDI. I would imagine so or is the down pipe config all different?

The banks stinger kit is 3.5" and comes with gauges but it also come with a muffler and a K&N panel filter that I will not use. I'll call them and see if they can work with me on a hybrid system or keep searching. I think $680 isn't to high but and If I'm going to fabricate my own intake using a K&N cone and not use the muffer.

I used Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost from powerservice only
Because my local store carries it is it not recommenced or it that the Stanadyne is simple a better product?

http://www.powerservice.com/dieselkleen_cetaneboost.asp

I'll check out and try Stanadyne once I find it, perhaps I can order online?

Last question, this one may be beyond the scope of a typical forum but how does one turn up the fuel rate. it it simply a fuel volume inclease or its it a timing \ advance ajustment. Poiter to a website books, publications....etc. I maybe able to just figure it out dunno yet.

Once again thanks for the support.

Rick

 

freight train, are you saying you can unhook the waste gate from the turbo. or i mean the rod with the jesus clip. (e clip) i have the same truck you have.

 

I gathered from your orig. post that your a turbo guy, so I think you'll like the way the truck sounds straight piped. The turbine really does keep the noise to a minimum,(for leaving the neighborhood, same problem here) and the whine that comes out at low RPM accelleration is great. When you rev it, it'll almost sound like a built gasser. Rumble and whine all in one.

As far as bolt on systems go, I had this 3 inch stuff on there with a glasspack for a while and couldn't stand it, it would leak, rattle around and squeak. Finally I got fed up and brought it to a local small shop,( the only one in the area that does racing exausts, he's done a few for me before, perfect work, good price.), and had a 3.5in aluminized system bent from scratch, 100% welded, and NNNOOO muffler. He did a 3.5in pipe from the DP all the way back, then put on a 4in tailpipe. Even the hangers were welded to the piping. Entire system is hung from rubber. 500 BUCKS out the door and NO RATTLES I'm not sure on the whole PSD system, but I know a PSD DP can be welded to the flange and bolted to the compressor. That'll get rid of the squeezed down flat useless DP setup these trucks come with, and give some good expansion area to the turbine outlet. That'll be my next mod, will keep you posted.

I use that Diesel Kleen stuff you mentioned and it works just fine. It's the lubricity that is good for the injection pump, the cetane booster is just a bonus. I get it at pepboys around here. The Stanadyne additive I get from a diesel truck service station when I'm in the area.

The fuel adjustment is only a volume adjustment, but having unrestricted airflow, you can dump a whole lotta fuel in and get a considerable increase in power output, and it's so easy, it's silly. On the passenger side of the IP is a little door held down with 3 screws, hand turn the engine to TDC, and remove the door,(have rags, lots of rags), you'll need a mirror, and one hell of a light to see it, but there's a set screw in there. If you don't see it, turn the engine over one more full turn. The turbo makers say to only increase it ONE wrench flat at a time, close everthing up and try it. Me personally, I'm way to lazy for that all day set screw turning crap, so I shot around 3/4 of a turn, closed it up and went for a ride. There was this huge black cloud behind the truck all the way down my street. (I don't mean a little black smoke, I mean BLACKOUT NIGHTFALL TOTAL ECLIPSE SOOTBATH. ) ok, too much fuel. Backed it off a 1/4 turn and it was good, more power, not too much smoke. NEVER NEVER bottom out the screw, unless you like buying IP's.

The only thing you can run out of is air, that's where the soot comes from, only turn the pump up until the exaust gets black, then back it off.

Keep the boost to a norm, watch the EGT's, and drive it like you stole it. Too much boost and head gaskets come next. The cr on these motors with 12-15 psi is like 45 or 50:1, That alone will launch the gaskets quick. Felpro makes thier "Turbo Approved" set for the boost happy type, they looked like they were supposed to almost o-ring the cylinder, pretty cool.

Tarzan, I keep the pressure line to the wastegate removed, I used it a long time ago to hook up a temp boost gauge, and never hooked it back up. This is the 1/4in line on the housing with the short orange hose that connects to the actuator. I keep an eye on the pressure, and if it gets too high, I like to let off the throttle a little to keep it down. If you do this, you need a boost gauge and pyro, otherwise leave it hooked up.

 

whats tdc. sorry, im new at this whole diesel thing.

 

also did you just cap off the line or just leave it open?

 

Freight Train,

You rock, great stuff thanks so much for taking the time.

That settles it ...Open Exhaust it will be!

Banks has the stinger kit they are willing to sell alone for $540 they will not send without the muffer though. The muffer has offset inlet outlet pipes which creates an bit of a challenge only beacuse it may require a slight "S" bend over a 16" length. Ideally I would spice 3.5" pipe to replace where the muffer was.
maybe Banks will do this for me.

I'm located in Maryland and do not believe there are any tubing fabricators local to me.

Gauges are mounted and I already started on a intake system using SAMCO silicone flex hose and an K&N cone filter. Once I get the exhaust done I'll mount the intake and ajust the fuel then maybe boost we will see.


Tarzan "TDC" is "Top Dead Center" #1 firing cylinder at TDC is where alot of ajustments take place. This applies to Gas engines as well.