Ok tested the fuel psi and cleaned IAC. Seems to idle a little better but still stalls.

Fuel psi was 38-40 psi which is in spec. This is off the front tank as the rear pump took a dump. I am gonna organize the spark plug wires better too, to make sure I don't have a cross fire issue. Peace of mind.

 

I'm really dumb. I really should of checked timing at the beginning of this (too much beer or something). I haven't put a light on the truck yet but messed with the dizzy a bit with the spout disconnected and the truck started running and revving a little better. I think I need to fine tune it as it was popping a bit while idling and revving. I know it's open headers. I did let it idle for about 10 minutes and it idled away...not the best but it idled. What I'm hoping is I didn't install the cam in wrong lol. Im pretty sure I had those dots lines up and you would be able to tell if a tooth was off. My eyes were burning while the truck was running too lol.

 

Fuel pressure should 30-34 PSI with the truck idling and the vacuum line attached to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The pressure you have leads one to think there is no vacuum line on the FPR.

 

You are running too rich.....see my previous post.

 

Vac line is on the FPR. The psi I listed before was with truck off and eec connector jumped. When running it did drop a little bit.

 

It's really hard to detonate one of these to death at idle. You can rule out ignition timing being the cause by slowly advancing it....you'll know if it's getting better. If/when you hear signs of ping and it still doesn't fix your issue back it off and set the hold down.

And you don't need to remove the spout to do the test above.

 

Dropped a bit to what????

 

OK I think you're wasting your time at this point, you need to finish the install with a full exhaust and the intake plumbing and drive it some, the computer needs time to adapt to the new motor it will not run perfectly the first couple times it is started.

 

AH ok yea basically I turned it clockwise (which I believe is advancing) until the idle cleared up.
About 35 psi. I did pull a vacuum on the FPR and it didn't hold so perhaps it's time for a new one. Not big on parts replacing but afaik if it doesn't hold vac it's no good correct?
Ok word. It revs really good. Just idles like it has a big cam...which I know it doesn't have as it's just an OEM HO cam.

Get it driving good enough so I can hit up a local exhaust shop. This thing is way too loud

 

Set timing to 12 btdc, runs a lot better, still idles goofy and stalls occasionally. Waiting on my new FPR, gonna modify the OEM maf air lid so I can use the mustang maf with it. Ill finish putting the truck back together and take it for a spin. Let the EEC learn and go from there.

 

I currently have some o2 codes in KOER 41, 91 also 33 (to be expected) KOEO 85 ( I swear when i pulled the 5.0 apart I never saw a canister purge valve)
CM 41, 91.

91 is HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (left side). for KOER and No HEGO switching detected always lean (left side). in CM
41 is the same but for the right side.

I do only have a single o2 in the driver side right now as the o2 wouldn't fit between the header and trans lines on the passenger. Also I will double check my wiring and be sure I didn't mess it up. ( As I extended the o2 harness to the driver side.)

Also could be another issue causing this too. Like maybe the absence of the can purge?

 

What mods did you make to the wiring harness for this MAF conversion? Did you use an actual conversion kit or did you DIY it?

 

I used an actual conversion kit bought a used m-9000-t51 from ebay. Not sure if the PO ever did anything to it. As I did see butt connectors on some of the wires. But those were to the injectors.

 

If it were mine, I'd be replacing those butt joints with solder and heat shrink.

 

These kits were designed to be plug and play for trucks so the wiring harness converts the mustang computers HO firing order to the truck non HO firing order, that may be why you have evidence that the PO modified it. And if that is true and he "did you a favor" and put it back to stock before selling it then it's now firing the injectors out of sequence for your 5.0HO.. and that would explain your loping idle. What you need to do is disconnect the PCM and injectors and buzz out the injector portion with a DMM to see what firing order it is producing, and if it's not the HO firing order then move wires around produce that. There are lots of people all over the web that will state that the firing order doesn't matter, but I'll tell you it does and offer this piece of evidence from the installation manual for this kit, right on page 1 it shows different part numbers for HO vs non-HO firing order.