PATS problem
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PATS problem
My 2002 has stranded me numerous times in the last 10 days. Originally, I thought it could be the key AGAIN (about a year earlier I had the same problem, key was bad). So, once I got it started, I drove it straight to the dealership. When I pulled in it was late and only the used car mgr and the service mgr. were in the building. Before he saw the vehicle and I explained the problem, he asked "do you have a 2001 or 02 F150? .... Not Good!
** Service MGR. assumed the PATS system was to blame. The wire that runs from the key area to the "transponder" gets chaffed or pulls free from its housing due to the tilt mechanism being used over time. Also, said that once the PATS system is triggered, wait 15 minutes for it to clear before you should try and start again. They had it for 2 day and no codes were thrown and it started just fine for them.
This weekend it wouldn't start Sat. or Sunday. Sunday evening I took the plastic cowling piece between the instrument cluster and the steering column off and it started right up.
Is there anything that I can do myself to fix this problem? I think I see the wire that they are talking about but I'm not sure.
It is frustrating to be holding the key and be unable to start your truck because of the anti-theft system.
** Service MGR. assumed the PATS system was to blame. The wire that runs from the key area to the "transponder" gets chaffed or pulls free from its housing due to the tilt mechanism being used over time. Also, said that once the PATS system is triggered, wait 15 minutes for it to clear before you should try and start again. They had it for 2 day and no codes were thrown and it started just fine for them.
This weekend it wouldn't start Sat. or Sunday. Sunday evening I took the plastic cowling piece between the instrument cluster and the steering column off and it started right up.
Is there anything that I can do myself to fix this problem? I think I see the wire that they are talking about but I'm not sure.
It is frustrating to be holding the key and be unable to start your truck because of the anti-theft system.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
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From: St Louis
It sounds like they were confusing multiple separate issues. I've never heard of the wiring for the PATS transceiver either chafing or stretching on your era of F150s. Usually the chafing issue is due to the harness for the shift lever while the stretching affects the turn signals and the brake lights. Hey, they're "managers", not technicians or mechanics.
In any event, what does the THEFT light in the cluster do during a failed starting attempt? If it fast-flashes (see owner's manual), then it's a PATS event.
If it's a PATS event...... I rarely suggest a "Hail Mary" parts replacement, but I'll make an exception this time and suggest a new transponder ring. They're not expensive (~$35) and they only take a few minutes to replace once the covers are off the column.
In any event, what does the THEFT light in the cluster do during a failed starting attempt? If it fast-flashes (see owner's manual), then it's a PATS event.
If it's a PATS event...... I rarely suggest a "Hail Mary" parts replacement, but I'll make an exception this time and suggest a new transponder ring. They're not expensive (~$35) and they only take a few minutes to replace once the covers are off the column.
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The Theft light has done various things. The first few times that I took notice as I was trying to start it, it was solid (not blinking at all) and other times it just blinked slowly. The other odd thing I noticed very infrequently, was the engine would slightly sputter like only one cylinder fired and then it would act as if it was the PATS system.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
It disables the injectors in software (the programing in the PCM prevents the injectors from operating).
Some, but but not all, years and models also have a starter interrupt. The 02 F150s were not among those which were primarily high end SUVs, etc. The first year for starter interrupt for the basic F150 was 04.
Some, but but not all, years and models also have a starter interrupt. The 02 F150s were not among those which were primarily high end SUVs, etc. The first year for starter interrupt for the basic F150 was 04.
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UPDATE!
After being stranded again about a week ago. I had the truck towed to Ford. They call me for the first time 2 days later with a guess that they believe the fuel pump is the issue. Quote is for $1050.00 (parts- pump and filter $550.00 - Labor $500.00). I had the truck towed home and bought a new fuel pump and filter for $192.00 on the way home from work Friday. Found a good youtube video Friday night and began work Sat. morning at 7:30am. I had everything installed and the truck running by noon Saturday. Still crossing my fingers on every start-up but it's been no problem since the work was completed and I saved $850.
After being stranded again about a week ago. I had the truck towed to Ford. They call me for the first time 2 days later with a guess that they believe the fuel pump is the issue. Quote is for $1050.00 (parts- pump and filter $550.00 - Labor $500.00). I had the truck towed home and bought a new fuel pump and filter for $192.00 on the way home from work Friday. Found a good youtube video Friday night and began work Sat. morning at 7:30am. I had everything installed and the truck running by noon Saturday. Still crossing my fingers on every start-up but it's been no problem since the work was completed and I saved $850.
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Floor jack and jack stands. Also, I left the tank full. About 18 gallons in the tank. Started with the floor jack holding as I broke the tank loose. Lowered it about 6" on to the jack stands (stands had 8x8" 1/2' plywood squares for stability) Disconnected everything. Tough but not the toughest thing that I've done. Then used floor jack to lower on to a rolling board. Then pulled it out from under and replaced pump. Hoses were all deteriorated so I replaced them. Putting them back on was the hardest part.
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Check engine light came on just after I completed the job. Throws a vacuum code. I imagine that I've got a problem with one of the lines that were so difficult to reattach. Is this a huge issue or can I just run on without worrying about it?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Minnesota
Yes...post the code. There is a sensor on the top of the tank that if it is not connected or you broke it, will toss a code. It's a pressure type switch IIRC. That's what will toss you a code if the gas cap is not on tight. I busted mine on my old 98 and tried to JB it all back together. It worked for a while, but eventually did not hold up. Was not a cheap sensor....like $70 or 80 bucks from RA. Mine ran fine with the busted sensor even with the CEL on until I got a new one.
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