Just took a gander at that thread. Don't know how I missed it in my searches. Lot of great information there. Won't say a calming influence, but does give me a good clue as to what I am in for in regards to going this effort solo.

 

Remove the hood and the front clip as a whole. It's a simple matter of undoing a few bolts and then spending hours sawzalling the radiator supports off, but it will make your life easy. I highly suggest you have a friend help with the hood though.

Drain all fluids, and drain them well. Drain the coolant from the radiator and the block, and drain the transmission fluid from the pan and the cooler lines. If you do this right, the job will be clean. If you do it wrong, you'll make a mess everywhere. Disconnect the kickdown, throttle, and shift linkage. Disconnect any wiring that is stopping you from pulling the front clip, including the wiring to the windshield washer pump. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the radiator and the hoses to the engine. It's not that complicated. Be thorough and double check when you're done.

If lifting the engine + trans, make sure to have an engine leveler.

Lift the engine from the bolt that holds the coil and then one of the intake/exhaust manifold bolts.

 

Mine is lot simpler - currently no auto trans, no kickdown lever. Essentially, a engine and an alternator. About the only other thing I have connected is the vacuum line for my brake booster.
Now, I will be adding a transmission cooler, kickdown lever when it goes back in.
Was wondering where my lift points were on the engine.

will be looking for an engine leveler now.

 

What is your plans for the rear end gearing & shift linkage?

1. Change out the steering column.
2. Go to an after market floor shifter.
3. Plus what about your driveline yoke spline count and will the tube need to be shorten or add to it?
4. will your speedometer cable & gear work with the tranny change?

Have you thought about these things?

Orich

 

Yes this is out of the 73-79 forum, but it for the most part applies. Exact bolt location may very. Do I really need to talk about disconnecting the exhaust? Ah...yes you have to, from the exhaust manifold. If you can leave the trans in the truck, do it because the motor will be lighter and easier to manage. You can pull together, but it will weight more.

Ok then here goes, there are 5+ ways to skin a cat, here is just what works for me. I am going off memory and am a long way from my truck to go look. This worked on my none a/c 79 4x4 F250 w/standard transmission, more than once, and I used the same technique on a 79 Bronco with a/c and a automatic transmission.
Painters tape on the door front edge when opened, and a little more plus the back edge of the fenders to prevent scratches. Disconnect battery and remove. Then drain radiator.
Tag and bag each piece of hdwr, or stick it in a large piece of card board and mark it accordingly.
1. Make sure you park the truck where you can get both doors open. Or BEFORE you put it inside a narrow shop....Open each door and remove the one bolt on each side that is right between the hinges. Now put it in the narrow shop...lol.
2. Take a scribe or sharpie and trace a mark the hood hinge positions on the underside of the hood. This will be helpful come reinstallation/realignment time. Hood removal is really a 2 person job. If you go it alone, be careful, great way to scratch the hood/cowl. If the hood is all the way open, it is front heavy when you remove the bolts. I can’t really explain a 1 man job here, but it looks like a monkey f..in a football. Just get a helping hand for this. If the hinges are compressed once removed, be careful as they can pop back up easily and get a finger in the process. Disconnect the hood ground on the passenger side. Make sure you make note of the stiffener brackets (under the hinges), if you have them. Ok hoods off.
3. At the very bottom edge/back side of each fender, is one bolt.
4. Make sure if you have the front fender/front edge to frame, small support bars (some do, some don't) remove them from the frame. I would remove them from the fender side also, just to prevent anything from getting bent.
5. Masking tape tag each electrical connection point on each side of the connection and mark each side of the connection (1-1), (2-2) or A-A, B-B and so on. There are 3? Main electrical connections on the dvrs side back by the fire wall, behind the hood hinge. Tape, tag, and disconnect.
6. There is an electrical harness that runs across the back side and above the fire wall on the passenger side and goes to the starter solenoid. Disconnect from solenoid (make sure you know make note, where each elbow plug goes on the starter solenoid.) There is a plug for voltage regulator, and then lay wiring on engine. Ground wire from solenoid to eng block (remove from solenoid side).
7. Look over the area behind the headlights/behind the core support area (each side for 1 small square plug) and the windshield washer tank for a elec plug in the front end of the tank. And the rubber feed line that goes to the T up by the cowl.
8. Top and bottom radiator hoses from back side of radiator. Fold rubber hoses back out of the way and zip tie, so they do not flip back open. Is it a automatic transmission? Disconnect transmission lines from radiator and cap lines.
9. There are these 1” or 2” wide rubber straps (one on each side) on the back side of the metal inner fenderwells that attach to the firewall, disconnect from firewall.
10. Scribe mark where the bracket that support the inner fenderwells (where it attaches to the fire wall). Remove 3 bolts per side.
11. Now if you are lucky here, down on EACH side of the radiator there is one main mount bolt for the radiator core support. Lucky meaning, it will come out and is not all rusty and stuck. But if it is rusty, stuck and or the head is stripped. Time for the sawzall. Red Diablo blades here and carefully cut between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the core support. These bushings and bolt parts are available. A torch is not a good idea here the rubber bushings will smoke like crazy.
12. Have an old tire or some other similar support to set the front clip down on once removed. Put it under the middle of the core support/radiator. So you do not bend the front edge of your fenders.
13. I use 2 other FTE buddies + myself and we just pull the complete front clip off. Make sure the plastic inner fenderwell liners do not get hung up on the shock brackets. As far as by yourself, attach the cherry picker to the middle of the core support, it can be done with a piece of cable, some folks just pull the radiator and use chain. Make sure you triple ck all electrical connections and the core support bushings are free. Lift it up just a bit and ck the fenders, and then lift it up again, just a little. You are wanting to pull it more forward than up, so that the back edge of the fenders contact the back side of the tires. Like I said, it’s doable, but a PITA as far as a one man show. 2 guys can pull it way easier.
I am NOT positive on all the electrical connections, but that is the big stuff. I am sure some FTE members are reading this and will double ck me and chime in with what ever I missed.
Or maybe they have a better hood trick?

 

I have thought about them. These are things the interrupt my sleep of late.
I have ran across a company that makes an aftermarket adapter that should connect my recently acquired 1969 steering column (from an F100 with auto trans) to the c4 transmission. That same company makes a kick-down cable/setup for connecting my tranny to the carb.
Not sure about my speedo cable. Hoping it will work with my C4 transmission. Will see when I get to the point about the drive shaft. As I think this was a combination available (300 CID/C4), I am hoping to find one already made.
Thanks 77&79F250 for the detailed approach you took.

 

Well, one thing I guess I will go ahead and use that I had backed away from are my Dorman EFI headers for the 240/300. Need that Y-pipe and I don't how much more fabrication to connect to my existing exhaust. And will have to figure out a way to create a heat riser to connect to my breather assembly to pass inspection.

 

OK, here is the steering column I hope will work with my pickup. Seller thought it was a 69. I can't find any numbers on the thing to look up.

 

The lower shift arm looks bent down some or it the way the picture was taken..
Clean up the blinker or put yours in it's place. Looks like filled with mud at one time.

Pull it all apart clean the rust out of the inside the tube put in new end bearings
Should fit it with a good/new blinker assembly.

Orich

 

I can say that pulling off the whole front is probably the best approach. I pulled the 360 out of my '70 F-250 with the whole front end on -hood. My truck was a former fire truck, with upgraded suspension, so im sure your truck is probably more manageable. We had to take front wheels off and lower front end as far as we could. Even then we had to go out one side with the engine, because we couldn't get it picked up high enough. Also, if there's one thing i learned pulling my engine out, its keep EVERYTHING organized. Tag and bag everything you take off, keeping all bolts and nuts together if possible, mark everything else you take apart (heater hoses, wiring, cables, linkages...etc) Also, something else i learned is clean up All tools and everything else you will need again and put everything back in its proper place. I know that's what i noticed what i could have done better for next time. I know many of you guys know much more than i do about this, but i hope something i said helps you out haha.

 

I chained down the frame to the axle so that the whole body would not rise up that would cause a problem getting the engine over the top of the radiator support.

Having 33" tall tires done help plus it's a 4wd. But ya need to have the shortest lifting chain as possible.

When, I find that the over all lifting height is not high enough. I lower the engine back
in and set it on 4x4" wooden block in the motor mount area so it won't slip off them and lower the and reset my lifting chain shorter so. I can raise it higher to clear the rad support.

Orich

 

Thanks for that information, Orich. I was wondering what to do with the column. Do you know if the bearings are easy to find?
Did you notice the wiring plug that comes off, what I am guessing is the Park indicator (not correct term)? I swear it looks exactly like the flat four-way plugs used on trailer lights, but the wiring appears factory.

At present, because of space constraints, I am probably only pulling the bumper, grille, radiator, radiator support and passenger side fender and inner engine area components. OF course the hood. Without help and limited space, pulling the whole front end as a unit does not appears reasonable.
I, too, may be lowering the truck as much as possible to get the engine out.
It is reasonable to install the engine and transmission separately and if so which would go first? And are there predefined mounting points for the C4 with the 300 on the frame?

 

With what you described that you are taking off, you should have no problem installing the engine and trans. as a unit.

 

You will need a lifting hoist balancer if doing the engine & tranny combo.
It make the whole job easier on your back since your going to remove the Rad support & grille.

You can find almost all the shift tube/steering column parts can be found online.

Like at one of these sites LMC, Mac's, NPD So that should not be a problem just don't loose any of the parts while it's apart. May be a few pictures of the lay out so you make no mistakes putting it back together Right!

I replaced my column tube a few yrs back found the inside rusted on the replacement. I taped a wire brush handle to the steering shaft so, I could reach down inside the tube to loosen and dirt/rust then put in some an extra length of chain and tilled it up & down to help remove any more rust/dirt still inside the tube.

I then rinsed a few times then shake the chain inside the tube a few more time before finial water rinsing with water. Let dry good.

I then used some water base rust convertor that, I pour into the tube and coated the whole inside of it. This stuff sets up in 30 minutes in temps of 70's. in a single coat.

The thing, I like about this stuff is it's water base rust converter is ez clean up and the extra run off can be reused & poured back into the bottle for later use.

So, I placed duct tape over the lower end and set the tube end in a coffee can to catch any if it leaks pass the tape. I coat the inside good the pour it out of the tube into the coffee can letting it drain good. Then remove tape wipe off any over spill let it dry.

Next, I sanded the outside of tube & painted to my color.
Orich

 

Another one of those - I have never done this type of questions. I am wanting to determine if I would be OK to pull the engine with my truck head in to the garage as opposed to facing out the garage door. Head-in, I will have about 3-4 feet of space in front of the truck. Obviously with the garage door open I have more room, but not usable room because of the steep slope right out the garage.
I still plan to pull the engine from the side removing either the driver's side or passenger's side front fender and grille/bumper/radiator/radiator support.
Might seem a stupid question, but once I start pulling it, will be kind of stuck with it where it is.