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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Heater Core question

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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 01:08 AM
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Heater Core question

So I tore into this heater that I yanked out of my 49 F2 parts truck, so I could install it in my F1.




I can replace the motor but the radiator shop in town said the core is not worth fixing. So I thought I'd just order one that was close in size and modify the outlet to match the case. I've been searching around online and I noticed that some say "with AC" or "no AC". The ones that seem to match my size and outlet location seem to be the "with AC" models. Will the "with AC" ones be fine for my heater? I'm obviuosly looking for the most efficient type of core to heat my truck. AC is in the form of 2x55 mph (down hill with the wind at my back). Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 04:08 AM
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The differences in the cores (with AC and without AC) are due to the shape of the housing they go into. If the AC one fits, and you can make it work, go for it!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 09:41 AM
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I have the same or similar heater in my 51 F1. I sent the rotted core out and had it re-cored using the original end tanks and inlet/outlet pipes. The company that did it was Universal Carnegie Manufacturing, and they did a fantastic job.

Universal Carnegie Manufacturing

From what I've heard, trying to adapt a modern core to fit is not going to work very well.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 11:46 AM
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Thanks to the both of you! I have emailed my details to a guy in New York Classic Heaters for antique and classic cars and trucks but I'll give the guy in PA a shot as well and see what they say before I buy new I suppose. Shipping from up here can be a killer!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 07:53 PM
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I'm resurrecting this old thread because I'm now in the process of putting this heater back together and hooking it up. Since it came out of a different truck I want to make sure I know where to hook up the heater hoses, and also see what I may be missing. I will post more pictures and info on the rebuild once I have it together, but for now can someone tell me if these are the right spots for the hoses? Thanks in advance for the help.





I don't believe I have the original water pump, so keep that in mind.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:52 AM
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My 1950 226 uses the two spots that you are pointing to in your pictures (on the water pump and on the head) to hook up the heater.The head connection is a 90 degree fitting with a shutoff valve.
By the way, did you get the original heater recored or did you purchase a replacement? If you decided on a replacement, what model does it fit? I think I will be in the position of needing a new core soon on mine.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Thanks for the confirmation Cougar54! And I went with Universal Carnegie out of PA. They did an amazing job. By the time I shipped it there and back I have about $200 into just a recore though. I could not find the right aftermarket one to fit. If you have the same heater as me than you might be better off just biting the bullet and sending it in if you want that look. If you went with something aftermarket you'd have to run soft lines inside the unit, since you'll never find that core size with those hard lines. I ended up buying a new 12v 3 stage motor (which is also very costly because it's a duel shaft). So I'm sure I could have saved some $$$ by just buying a new unit, but I love the character of this one.

Currently I'm looking for the duct piece that comes out of the unit and converts into 2 round hoses that run to the defrost. Do you, or anyone else, have pictures/part #s?



Had to cut down the shafts and also adjust for a larger diameter shaft. Quite the pain




Beautiful work on this core
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 09:28 PM
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I believe this is what you are looking for . . .

 
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 08:30 PM
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That looks like the one! I don't suppose you happen to have one for sale..... I'll post some more pictures for reference so anyone else looking to tear one of these apart can have a look. I'm glad I had taken a few shots before I had it apart as it was kind of a bugger to get back together. If anyone has the part I need please let me know and we'll figure out a price/etc.


Don't forget to test it before you get it all together. That squirrel cage is a tight fit and will rub if not in there just right.


















 
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 08:35 PM
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looking real good.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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I'll take a look to see if I have anything but I really don't think I have an extra defroster outlet. By the way, what color was the outside heater case originally? Mine was repainted flat black by the PO so I need to strip and repaint it. Looks like you painted yours a tangerine color.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Thanks Mike!

And Cougar, I appreciate you looking into it. I will post all the pictures I have before I blasted it. It was a glossy black I believe, and I know the color looks kind of wild in the photos, but it's really just Rustoleum primer (redish/orange) with a clearcoat. Same color as I painted the wheels on George.




It's matches the original primer coming through the paint pretty well.


Here's what I have for the original photos:











 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 01:46 PM
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I'm getting quotes for recoring my heater core for my '50 F2 and apparently it has what they call a "tubular" core versus a "cellular" core. I got quotes from both Classic Heaters out of NY as well as a quote from Universal Carnegie out of Pennsylvania. Universal says they would convert my cores to the more modern cellular style core and they are about $50 cheaper than Classic. Has anyone else had this conversion done or use any other heater core rebuilder that they would recommend. Has anyone else (other than rneihammer) used Carnegie? Did you have a positive experience?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 06:09 PM
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Heater cores

UC in Pa. is the way to go for a heater core . Size is critical .For the heater restos I purchase a length of core than cut it to the size I need on the metal band saw.The local radiator shop solders the headers on . Has worked out just fine w/ the core material from UCM .
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by firstrider
UC in Pa. is the way to go for a heater core . Size is critical .For the heater restos I purchase a length of core than cut it to the size I need on the metal band saw.The local radiator shop solders the headers on . Has worked out just fine w/ the core material from UCM .
So you just buy the core material from UCM? If so, do you remember the part number you purchased? My heater core is 9" wide, 7" tall, and 2.5" deep with the tubes running the 9" length and the end caps being the 7" x 2.5" . Sound familiar?
 
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