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Hey, new to the forum and looking for help. I have searched and cant find my answer. I am installing a Audiovox remote st art in my 2004 Exam 4wd 4.6. I am not hooking up most of the features. I have the door locks hooked up, the horn and the parking lots so the fob works like it should. I have everything wired and I ran the tach wire to the negative pink wire on the coil and when I tried to program the tach I am having no luck. I have read post on here that im not getting enough volts, im getting 1/8 of what I should and makes sense. the instructions recommend something to hook up more of the coils but im trying to find a way around it as I already have the car taken apart. I have also read that you can hook into the tach wire from the computer under the hood to the dash cluster but I cant find which wire that is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I ran the tach wire to the negative pink wire on the coil and when I tried to program the tach I am having no luck. I have read post on here that im not getting enough volts, im getting 1/8 of what I should and makes sense. the instructions recommend something to hook up more of the coils
You should see +12volts on the coil wire. The tach learn doesn't look at the voltage specifically, but looks at the number of voltage interruptions per second. Back in the day when there was only one coil on a V-8, the voltage was interrupted 4 times per engine revolution.
When you hook the tach learn to only one COP on a COP ignition system, the tach learn (still sees 12-volts but) only sees one voltage interruption per every TWO engine revolutions. Thas may be too slow for your Audiovox to recognize. You could connect the tach learn wire to a few more COPs to get more pulses per second. Or go upstream and connect it to the red/green wire that feeds voltage to ALL the COPs at the CJB. That way it would see 4 voltage interruptions per every engine revolution.
Might be worth a call to Audiovox to see what they suggest (and to see if I'm giving you the correct scoop on their product).
CJB is the Central junction box right? Yeah that's what Im wanting to do based on some other post I read, I just didn't know where to hook the wire up at. So the wire is Red/green, ill have to located the CJB and give that a try, im sure that will work.
im looking in my owners guide to see which fuse it is so I can find the wire but im not completely sure which one it is. fuse 27 is compass module (run/start sense) fuse 28 is pcm relay coil.
when I tried to program the tach I am having no luck. I have read post on here that im not getting enough volts, im getting 1/8 of what I should and makes sense.
I had the exact same issue with a different brand and the solution was to use the tach wire instead of the coil wire. Like you said, the tach wire will output 8X what a single coil wire does. Your other option (if supported) is to use the voltage sensing feature instead of the tach wire. Voltage sensing makes use of the difference in vehicle voltage when off versus when running. That's how it determines if the engine is running.
Or go upstream and connect it to the red/green wire that feeds voltage to ALL the COPs at the CJB. That way it would see 4 voltage interruptions per every engine revolution.
That won't work. The fuse provides +12 volts to one side of all the coils, then the ECM pulses the second side with a negative pulse. So by tapping into the +12 volt side, the remote start module will never sense a pulse.
That won't work. The fuse provides +12 volts to one side of all the coils, then the ECM pulses the second side with a negative pulse. So by tapping into the +12 volt side, the remote start module will never sense a pulse.
Your right! We'd have to tap into the negative side and there is no common negative side as each coil is pulled to ground independently of the others.
Also, I just remembered that Ford fires each coil three times (instead of once) when the RPMs are below ~1100. I don't know it that would confuse the Audiovax.
and there is no common negative side as each coil is pulled to ground independently of the others.
Another way around this is to use 8 diodes, one from each negative side of each coil. The second side of each diode would be all bonded together. This common bond of the 8 diode would give an accurate tach signal that the RS could read.
So what are my options. I'm getting ready to try and fuel injectors wire and see if that will work. Is there not a tach wire running to the dash I can hook to or at the pcm.
Yeah it says something like that in the instructions for vehicles with multi coil packs. I could just never find the part it refers to or anything else about it.