This is getting tiresome and I am quickly reaching a point that I am not sure what to do.

Over the past year + I have been fighting puking coolant issues, replaced the intake gaskets, Heater core, upper radiator hose/thermostat outlet, Heater core shut off valve, and now it is puking anti-freeze out of the overflow tank.

I fix one thing and about a week or so later another problem pops up. As I reflect back these are not random failures but symptoms of a bigger problem that I have been either ignoring or just not taking the time to think about (or just too scared to think about.) But the only thing I can think of that would over pressurize the system is a cylinder head crack.

The more I think about it a couple weeks ago when it was above freezing I noticed the exhaust was still quite visible and the tail pipe was dripping water, which I thought was odd, but I was busy and did not put more thought into it.

But the more I think, the more I come to the conclusion that the head(s) are bad and I need to decide something.

Right now I am looking at spending roughly $700 on parts (new heads, gaskets, bolts, ect.) and freezing my butt off in the middle of Winter trying to do this. It does not look very appealing to me at all.

There is no point of trying to do anything with these heads sense they have been machined once already and there is no fixing a crack.

So it has come down to a deciding factor on what I should do. Scrap it and find something else? But there is not much for choices out there for what the Aero can do. Just call me sentimental, heck I don't know. I do know that I can't keep having my Aero down all the time waiting for me to fix it.

Anyway, as I decide what I am going to do. Part of it is deciding what heads to get. I see Odessa has new heads on e-bay for about $410 a pair. A little more I can get re-man ones from work that I know will stand behind their warranty, but again, being re-man's I could see this issue pop back up in the near future. That is all I am seeing from my searches.

Suggestions, condolences, ect would be greatly appreciated.

 

Did you do a compression test so verify that a cylinder is indeed leaking? Is it still losing coolant? The early symptoms with coolant gushing out the overflow tank definitely sound like they were the result of leaking head gasket, or a cracked head. But if the engine is sucking coolant, it's happening elsewhere, where the coolant pressure is higher than what the working fluid is, like through the intake manifold.

 

Maybe some Barr's tablets would get you through the winter?

 

I just did the intake manifold gaskets back in March, and I am leaning towards head cracked due to the radiator being very low, and the overflow tank is overflowing, which is the weakest leak in the system sense I have replaced all of the other weak links. I have not had a chance to do a compression test, but I plan to in the next week, weather permitting. I am also replacing the radiator cap, just in case that is it, and it is cheap, but that is probably wish-full thinking.

As for the Bars leak, that will cause more problems in the future that I don't want to deal with. I would rather have the van sit for a couple months than dump that in.

 

If you have access to a compressor, do a leakdown test also. Will give more definitive information on cracked heads or leaking head gaskets. Will bubble up thru the radiator hole on the leakers.

Just a friendly reminder on the valve/seat regression problem on the 4.0L OHV and decision on new heads vs rebuilt cost.
Head work requires new head bolts, they are torque to yield one time use.
Your '97 has the fast burn heart shaped chamber cyl heads, cannot use older models.



Rebuilding The Ford 4.0L Pushrod V6 - Engine Builder Magazine

I'd replace all the pushrods and rockers that display any end/socket wear at all.

Good time to have the injectors professionally cleaned and tested.

Run an oil lab analysis, will tell you just how much antifreeze coolant has leaked into the oil and builtup sodium potassium, real quick killers of crank and rod bearings.

$1000 next spring and you're back on the road, can't get a passenger/freight hauler anywhere for that price.

These 2 brands of new cyl heads I have experience in Ranger/Bronco II replacements. Quality heads hold up well.
http://www.kingcylinderheads.com/For...ad-K264CG.html


http://enginetechcatalog.com/Interch...l.+Head+-+Bare




No experience with these.
http://www.enginepartstore.com/ford/...-cylinder-head


I would have the new heads and block surface checked for flatness and squareness at a local top quality machine shop before install.

Still have my old girl, she sets out in the rain snow and beating sun. Starts everytime first crank. Love the later sequential fuel injection 4.0L OHV engines, quick easy start and torque power.
Love the comfortable ride and the ability to haul lots in the back in the worst storm.

 

It's good to know of at least 2 sources for these.

Any idea what the difference is between the heads labeled "CG" vs just "C"? They both say "complete"; I can't believe the $150 price difference is from just the gaskets.

 

Check out Tom Morana's offerings if you want high performance racing heads:

Tom Morana Racing Engines

 

That is way out of my price range, but man, it would be cool!


Some sort of special gasket? Not sure, but that $296 price tag is not bad at all, but they don't mention anything about seat inserts.

 

I did a cooling system pressure test, in an hour it dropped from 16psi to 10 psi. I then did the exhaust gas in cooling system test, and yep, in no time flat it turned the blue liquid to yellow.

The temperatures are suppose to warm up next weekend so I might have a chance to tear it apart and take a closer look.

Still not sure if I want to repair or send to the junkyard. It wouldn't be such a big decision if it was not for the rust that has creaped in on the underside. I do have some replacement panels, but again, time and enthusiasm is not there at the moment.

Junkyard seems to be looking better and better.

 

too much hassle and worries and shopping and what ifs, and labor and rust.

you can get another van for less hassles. With your experience you can find a low-mileage example and keep-a-trucking.

they are out there you know, you just have to find them.

don't junk the old fathfull, keep it for parts and slowly restore it. Do a RojoStar on it.

 

1997 Ford Aerostar XLT 4.0L All Wheel Drive

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...851056850.html

Nice Ford Aerostar*Low Miles*Runs Great

1991-1994 Ford Explorer 4.0 engine

https://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/4854501258.html

 

Lots of miles; needs valve job as noted, and rest of engine and transmission probably ready for major service or replacement. Probably lots of wear and tear from all those miles towing trailers.

Fewer miles, but it is a salvage, so you don't know what happened to it in a previous life.

This looks like a good candidate. Personally, I would miss the E4WD, or the LSD.

This engine may have the same valve problems as the Aerostar's, so at least a valve job may be in order.

I wonder what the seller wants to do with the rest of the van?

 

Yeah, same issue mine has, lol, don't think so.


The others, I am sorry, would not touch with a ten foot cattle prod. They have bumper damage and other unknown issues that the writers hint about and still want mint money for.

But thank you for looking Jose.

 

Damn sexy.....ugh..... must resist.....

Cars for Sale: 1997 Ford Aerostar XLT Wagon in Arkansas City, KS 67005: Van Details - 391755686 - AutoTrader.com

 

That one looks clean! You notice the seats are EB edition but the van is only a XLT? I'm thinking Ford had extras to use up and tossed them in XLT models also.....