Just a friendly poke, throw together a signature line with your rig and mods like most of us have. Makes it easier to reference your rig's particulars

Another option would be a tuner of some sort. Bone stock I absolutely HATED towing with 35's, it was miserable. After the tuner, no problems at all. I spent around $465 but I went a little extravagant with the tunes I wanted. If you were to stick to Eco, Tow, and maybe a high idle so the AC works better when parked or whatever you can be in well under what I paid. I won't claim any MPG increases, that's not going to happen. What DOES happen is maintaining stock mileage while improving drivability all across the board. Completely different truck.

 

Is there any reason not to take the dingleberry off?

If you guys don't think towing with tires large than 35's would be fun, does that opinion stand if the truck I regeared? I assume it does. If so, I think I won't do a lift, stick with 33s-35s and buy a lock right for the front.

 

From what I understand it's supposed to be a half-assed fix from Ford for driveline vibrations... It's only gotten me hung up once, and that bent it back and it hasn't been an issue since.

I've had no issues towing with 35's and stock gears. I just towed a friend's crew cab Duramax with no adverse issues (tuner in 60-tow). You'd be hard pressed to fit 35's stock unless you dump money on some cutout flares, which I am not a fan of as they're a permanent move with no going back.

Regearing a vehicle always helps for larger tired if you plan on towing or doing more serious work, to me IMO 35's would be the max I would go before a gear swap. If you do go bigger I would recommend larger wheels for sure as the stiffer, smaller sidewalls associated with a tire on a bigger rim will help out with stability. For example 37's on 16's vs 37's on 20's, 20's will have a smaller sidewall which by design will be stiffer and flex less at any pressure.

Look into a rear swaybar for sure, after towing my friend's Dirty Max I'm looking at airbags for the rear as well since I was squatting so hard out back the tires were running the flares. HOWEVER, I'm running 35's on a lift meant for 33's and my rear bump stops were missing when I bought the truck bone stock. Never got around to installing new ones. That being said, the trailer and truck combo easily tipped in at 10,000 lbs.

 

Matt, Let's not forget our friend Junk here has a 5.4 motor not your more torquey 7.3. I still think his best bet would be to borrow a set of (only need 2 for the rear for a test tow) 35" on SD rims to see how well the V-8 pulls his Jeep. I'm thinking that 5.4 will be working pretty hard with the tall tires. I'm sure it will get the job done but the drivability may be an issue for him, everyone's wants and needs are different, I needed new gears to get my wanted towing performance. His load is a lot less weight and less aero drag than mine though.

 

That's what I get for not logging on frequently and picking up where I left off. I totally forgot the OP is rocking a 5.4!

In that case, absolutely agree with borrowing a set of wheels and going a trial tow. I'm more in favor of 32's-33's including most likely with a gear swap as well. If you're going to use it for off-road recovery as well you're going to need some torque multiplication for sure when dragging a down trail rig back to the trail head.

 

I've done a fair amout of dragging my bro-in-laws Jeep around, so can completely relate.

If you find a cheap Dana60 front end with the gears you want great, otherwise, the Dana50 has been bulletproof for me. I'd save $ for the eventual Jeep upgrades that never cease.

Congrats on the Ex.