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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Gold heater core

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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 05:58 PM
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Gold heater core

When did they start making heater cores out of GOLD ? On the way to home depot today the heater core started to leak . When I got home I pulled it out and went in to fire up the lap top and order a new core . After 58 years I think it could need replacing . Was I shocked at the price $178.00 . I think a radiator is only a few $ more . Sometimes I forget what money pits these old trucks are . What's next ?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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Yeah, that is an obscene price, Dave. That price for a heater core would make me think about adding an air conditioner heater combination. Just bypass the heater and put on an extra sweater. Another four months and you will not need the heater.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:32 PM
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Dave, where exactly is it leaking? Mine blew apart just barely a month after I got it back on the road. It had a crack where the hose met the tank. I got it fixed for $10 at a radiator shop here. If you can't find anybody down there to get it fixed, send it to me, and I'll show it to them.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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Do you mean you guys actually need a heater down there?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:06 PM
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Hey, the Canadians keep sending crummy vortex weather so far south that much of the US has shivered. It was colder in Atlanta than Chicago this morning. Go figure.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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It's not too cold up here right now for this time of year, maybe those fans are really working
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 10:54 PM
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I couldn't find a heater core for mine. I ended up paying $180 to get the old one re-cored.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 12:33 AM
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An alternative may be a Ford Ranger core or something like that. Sometimes you can find a small later model core that will fit in the heater box.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 07:39 AM
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I had the core cleaned and checked about a year ago , and it was ok . I am thinking with the aluminum radiator and a higher pressure cap it just could not handle it . The fins bulged apart . I should have taken it to a shop to see what they could do , but I have a real bad cold or flue thing going on , and just didn't want to mess around . I have to get a cable operated valve to turn the heat on and off as , it is a pain to get out and shut off the heat valve under the hood when things warm up around 11 AM .
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DR Smith
I had the core cleaned and checked about a year ago , and it was ok . I am thinking with the aluminum radiator and a higher pressure cap it just could not handle it . The fins bulged apart . I should have taken it to a shop to see what they could do , but I have a real bad cold or flue thing going on , and just didn't want to mess around . I have to get a cable operated valve to turn the heat on and off as , it is a pain to get out and shut off the heat valve under the hood when things warm up around 11 AM .


I heard that. Sometimes it's just easier to say "Dang the price, what's the terms!" and move on. Hope you get better soon.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Exclamation

I just paid $500 for new 4-core copper radiator for '51 F-1. Ouch.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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I'm curious why you went with a higher pressure cap? Nothing to be gained on an otherwise stock engine.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DR Smith
When did they start making heater cores out of GOLD ? On the way to home depot today the heater core started to leak . When I got home I pulled it out and went in to fire up the lap top and order a new core . After 58 years I think it could need replacing . Was I shocked at the price $178.00.
Basic part number for heater core: 18476 / Which type of heater does your truck have?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 10:33 AM
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it is the smaller non fresh air heater.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 10:36 AM
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I wasn't extremely thrilled about going this route, but I put in a generic Summit Racing heater. It is compact, fits in where the Magic Aire used to be, and has a 12V fan inside.

I did add a water control valve as a shut-off and I bought the kit that allowed me to hook up the defroster ducts.

I was skeptical at the start, but it came out looking pretty good. Here's the Summit part: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...01-1/overview/

Just a thought....this would be an easy way to cannibalize a 12V fan and a new heater core when restoring an original heater. Not a perfect fit, but not too bad.

Here's a pic:




I guess that makes it a dark-side heater!!

Dan
 

Last edited by old_dan; Dec 16, 2014 at 10:37 AM. Reason: typo
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