another egr question
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From: Culleoka TN
another egr question
Ok guys yall may have seen my other posts about my high idle but to update everyone. 89 f150 5.0 4 speed. The smog pump pulley has already been removed and I blocked the egr with a homemade block off plate. Still getting occasional high idle. Tonight I pulled the egr sensor off of the egr and by working it with my finger I could get my idle to get back to normal if pushed in all the way truck would die and if left all the way out engine would idle high. How can I trick this sensor into thinking the egr is working. Everytime I search i get links to rjminjection.com and fordfuelinjection.com doesn't seem like neither one is in business anymore so can someone tell me what resistors to buy and where to wire them thanks. I have a bunch of 1/8th watt resistor in various sizes but think they will be to small and I don't know what I need. Thanks in advance.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
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with everything in tact, i.e. sensors, vacuum lines, diaphragm, and solenoid, related to the egr...its "tricked". simple as that....
pull codes and see if your issue is even related to the egr. ive been egr-less for 8 years now (blocked off) and I still have to replace parts in the system from time to time. but when everything works, it runs great.
a vacuum tester works great in checking the vac system and the diaphragm. the diaphragm should hold vacuum for a lengthy period of time (keeping the egr valve open)
if everything checks out, your problem isn't related to the egr at all.
pull codes and see if your issue is even related to the egr. ive been egr-less for 8 years now (blocked off) and I still have to replace parts in the system from time to time. but when everything works, it runs great.
a vacuum tester works great in checking the vac system and the diaphragm. the diaphragm should hold vacuum for a lengthy period of time (keeping the egr valve open)
if everything checks out, your problem isn't related to the egr at all.
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From: Culleoka TN
The codes I'm getting is egr failed to open. Could it be that my egr is stuck and not actuating. If so I would hate to replace the egr when I've already got it blocked and won't be using it anyway. I can't get the tube off of the bottom of the egr without fear of breaking it. So are you saying plug the tab and tad back in. Also does the egr get its actual exhaust from the intake.
Lead Driver
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Sounds like the diaphragm won't hold vacuum, or you have a broken vac line in the egr circuit. Get a vacuum tester from local part store, it's money well spent. Hook the tester up to the vac port on the diaphragm (on top of egr valve). If it holds vacuum, move on to the lines in the circuit.
yes, the 302 intake has exhaust crossover built into it for egr. You have to plug that as well, it's under the intake manifold tsunami wave.
yes, the 302 intake has exhaust crossover built into it for egr. You have to plug that as well, it's under the intake manifold tsunami wave.
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From: Culleoka TN
Thanks I know that the vacuum line is good bc I've already replaced it. So if I have to buy a new egr should I do away with my delete seems silly to buy an 80$ egr that will be non functional.
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I had to shim mine with an extra gasket between the EVP and the EGR. If the EGR is blocked off remove the vac lines so it cannot open. TAB and TAD need to have electrical connectors attached or a resistor to stop CEL.
Lead Driver
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You don't really have much of a choice, you can spend money to tune the egr out (if you can find someone that can do it) or spend money maintaining the system to keep the computer happy. There are plenty of benefits of running the blocked egr, while maintaining the system otherwise. One thing you'll never have to worry about again is the damn egr tube breaking.....
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Lead Driver
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If there's another successful way of tricking the comp by using resistance and doodads, then I'm unaware of it.
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What I did on my truck is blocked off the port on the upper and lower intake with a penny (cost me 2 cents lol) and kept all vacuum lines and connections hooked up, the truck runs great. The computer has no idea
Tanner
Tanner
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OP- If you still have the same issue and you are sure the valve is closed but the codes say it's open, just try loosening the 3 screws holding down the EVP a couple of turns.
Lead Driver
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If you use a block off plate and leave the vac lines hooked up the pcm WILL advance timing and lean out the mixture. The best way to do this without a tune is to remove vac lines so that the valve keeps sending the a signal that it is closed so the pcm just does buisiness as usual. It will not turn on the CEL, and will log code 33 during KOER. The OP is running an 89 speed density, and the 3 resistor eliminator does the same thing.
OP- If you still have the same issue and you are sure the valve is closed but the codes say it's open, just try loosening the 3 screws holding down the EVP a couple of turns.
OP- If you still have the same issue and you are sure the valve is closed but the codes say it's open, just try loosening the 3 screws holding down the EVP a couple of turns.
have you had success with this? ive had everything go bad in the egr system over the years, and it causes stumbling and fumbling on downshifts and light pedal...sometimes erratic idle also.
i had the diaphragm go bad in the egr valve, which is in essence the same as pulling the vac line (without a vac leak of course) and it caused the same issues. CEL also.
maybe im missing something?....i also know these efi systems can have "personalities" of their own. sometimes one thing on one truck will not generate the same results on the next. maybe that's whats happening here...cuz if i try to leave anything out it runs poorly.
as for the leanout...my wideband doesn't register any leaning, but i get what youre saying. ill take the advanced timing though.
Elder User
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Yes on the success. I currently have an 89 and a 90 both no vac lines and blocked off. Both were running fine no CEL as speed density. Now the 89 runs the A9L and the 90 runs an A9P. After the swap the 90 needed to have the EVP shimmed to get it within range.
The EVP is sensitive. When I first blocked the 89, I just took it off of the EGR. NO BUENO! The rod on the EVP needs to be pushed in the right distance for the pcm to register it as closed, push too far in and it registers open.
The 3 resistor trick just fools the pcm into thinking the EGR is stuck closed.
As for the advancing, if you are running 10* base there might not be a problem, but light throttle detonation is something I hate.
The EVP is sensitive. When I first blocked the 89, I just took it off of the EGR. NO BUENO! The rod on the EVP needs to be pushed in the right distance for the pcm to register it as closed, push too far in and it registers open.
The 3 resistor trick just fools the pcm into thinking the EGR is stuck closed.
As for the advancing, if you are running 10* base there might not be a problem, but light throttle detonation is something I hate.
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Where exactly did you put this blockoff plate? It has to go between the valve and intake and there can be no air leaks it has to be sealed up tight.
OK explain this more, are you saying you completely removed the EGR sensor from the valve but left the valve connected as it should be with the blockoff in place, and just by exercising the sensor in your hand with it not touching anything else your idle would go up and down?
OK explain this more, are you saying you completely removed the EGR sensor from the valve but left the valve connected as it should be with the blockoff in place, and just by exercising the sensor in your hand with it not touching anything else your idle would go up and down?
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From: Culleoka TN
update
Sorry for the late response but I bit the bullet and bought a new egr. To clarify what I was saying before is I could pull the egr position sensor and work it with my finger and the idle would go up and down with it. The block off plate I made with a piece of 1/8 inch plate and I'm pretty sure it's sealed up good bit now to my update the second I put the new egr on. I went from idling at 2-2500 rpms to 3500-4000 rpms. I tried pulling the position sensor aga in and actuate it while running but then it was making no difference so I bought a new position sensor. No change now I can't even drive this thing. Due to having an automatic 55mph cruise control. I don't know what to do. I will check to make sure my block off plate has good seal in the morning. And yes I have the plate between egr and intake and I had to cut the tube from intake to remove old egr. The nut would not budge with all the pb blaster in the world so I cut the tube and welded up. I feel like I'm getting conflicting stories should I block vacuum line to egr or not. I feel like it won't work with it plugged thanks for all the input so far.