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Rust Removal

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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 01:58 AM
  #1  
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Rust Removal

I had good weather and time on my side this weekend to do some work on my truck. Well one thing lead to another and now I'm in the middle of what started out as an exhaust manifold gasket swap which quickly turned into a valve and ring job.

I'm waiting on parts so I decided to clean my rusty efi manifolds. 10 minutes spent with a grinder and wire brush convinced me I needed to find a better way. I had heard about electrolysis before and thought I would give it a try.

I had most of the necessary items on hand; large tub, water, wire, battery charger, sacrificial anode (old brake rotor) and a rusty efi manifold. All I needed was washing soda. $4.49 at the local grocery. Ready to roll.

Well I managed to clean my manifolds and not shock myself in the process.

I'm sure many of you have done this successfully but I thought I would share how I did it for those that are interested. Here is a link to a video I made. If anyone has any tips or tricks let's here them.

 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 02:08 AM
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Here are a couple of photos as well. Before, final finish with header paint, and the anode/brake rotor with the rust deposits.

Before


all cleaned up


Rust deposits
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 05:39 AM
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That process does work nicely. I made a tank out of 6" PVC for doing drive shafts.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by GLR
That process does work nicely. I made a tank out of 6" PVC for doing drive shafts.
I never thought of that. What did you use for the positive anode? Do you have a picture?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 12:27 PM
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Nice vid and looks very effective...
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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Here's my setup... about 30 gallons. I've had it going for like three years now. Works great... master cylinders, calipers, brackets, lawn tractor wheels.

If there is any trick, it is immediately scrubbing off the gunk down to the fresh steel and immediately applying a coat of primer. If ya don't, then it'll flash rust because the metal's pores are open.



Here was my temporary setup to do a driveshaft... fence boards, concrete blocks, and plastic sheeting.

 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 78F150TX
I never thought of that. What did you use for the positive anode? Do you have a picture?
Sorry , no pic (it's in NY , I'm in VA now) Just used a 3/8 " cold rolled steel rod for the anode. Pipe is about 4-5 ft long, capped on one end. If drive shaft is too long it can be flipped after one end is done.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Here's my 'shaft after initial cleaning and then restored.

Found a font close to the original, printed it out, and then hand-cut a stencil for one-time use.

 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:52 PM
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So, connect the negative to the item that you want to clean and the positive to an anode?
How much soda?
What rate of charge for how long?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:58 PM
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That was one of the best articles I've see, thanks.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ligito
So, connect the negative to the item that you want to clean and the positive to an anode?
How much soda?
What rate of charge for how long?
Yep ligito, negative to part, positive to anode. 1 tbsp of washing soda per gallon of water. I used a run of the mill 12volt battery charger. You can let it cook as long as you need. You can't overdue it. I left my manifolds in for roughly 24hrs.

X2 what HIO said about cleaning and then priming immediately after. The items will flash rust. If you're not ready to paint you can always hit them with WD40 to keep the rust away.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Here's my 'shaft after initial cleaning and then restored.

Found a font close to the original, printed it out, and then hand-cut a stencil for one-time use.

Dang HIO! I'm going to borrow that one. It looks awesome. And your tank was some serious backyard ingenuity. I dig it
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ligito
So, connect the negative to the item that you want to clean and the positive to an anode?
How much soda?
What rate of charge for how long?
Below is the article hyperlinked in the Tech Thread compilation. Yall should really read through that long list of threads/posts/sites to see what has been assembled for your use.

Low-Buck Rust Removal Using Electrolysis

Originally Posted by 78F150TX
Dang HIO! I'm going to borrow that one. It looks awesome. And your tank was some serious backyard ingenuity. I dig it
Thanks. Yeah, that bridge a piece of a shopping cart that some loser abandoned in my neighborhood. I welded some grounding posts and have an assortment of stranded copper wire and pieces of coat hanger that I can tie or simply hook and suspend the part. The sacrificial steel is scrap plate I had hanging around from dock bumper brackets and a tow hitch. Hitting the steel with a wire wheel on a grinder when it gets really crusty speeds up the process due to the amount of surface area exposed to the parts being derusted. There is sacrificial steel on both ends of the tub for 360° treatment and no flipping around.

Here's the before and after of a set of painted hubcaps I got for my 71 F250 "Big Red Dick". The whole lot for $10 at a GoodGuys swap meet. LOTS of priming, wet-sanding, and masking involved.

I have two sets of radius arms needing treatment but will build a permanent tub for long narrow parts.


 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:04 PM
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WOW! That is a serious resto job on the wheel covers. They look better than original. I'd stop you driving down the road just to ask about those. Well done man.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 78F150TX
WOW! That is a serious resto job on the wheel covers. They look better than original. I'd stop you driving down the road just to ask about those. Well done man.
Thanks. Glad to share. I got the idea to paint the crown from the Slicks' hood emblem

A fellow FTE'er mentioned they looked so nice that they may be up for a five-finger discount.

That would be very upsetting.
 
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