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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Door alignment?

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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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Question Door alignment?

What would be the best way/approach to align a door on the truck? I can't get to hinge bolts Help please!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:15 AM
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???
Hinge bolts are easy to get to. Whats blocking you? If worse comes to worse put new hinge pins in. Or did you change pins and trying to get it back in ?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:16 AM
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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One thing my body man has discovered is that the door opening in the cab isn't exactly the same as the door itself. He was adjusting the doors on Dad's truck and could get the front, top, and back set up to his satisfaction, but not the bottom. We then started looking at other trucks and found that when the door is adjusted such that the front/top/back are even the bottom won't be. So don't use the bottom opening in your aligning process.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:37 AM
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Take the fender off, (not that hard) but only take 1 off at a time, the hood will still be supported by the other one. Now all bolts are accessable. Try to align the door-windshield edge, top and rear to the cab.... As Gary mentioned, reference the bottom with a grain of salt. Now re-install the fender. Fender SHOULD line up well if you remember how many factory shims were between the fender and hood hinge area.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Awesome, thank you very much! (this is great forum)

Sorry I didn't mentioned it before, I need to get to the hinges on the cab.
Looks like the only way is to take the fender off, thanks again Reamer!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 09:19 AM
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Speaking about button part of the door - there're big gaps and there light coming through.
What will be a good fix to that? I don't think new weather strip will fix it, the one i have right now is not to bad. Here is a picture (the gap looks bigger then on the picture):

 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 09:56 AM
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Getting it aligned as mentioned above will bring in the bottom. (that adjustment will be made with the bolts on the door.) Use the hinge-to-cab bolts to align the door up and down, and closer-further away from the striker, relative to the cab, then align the door in-and-out, so you can run your hand from cab-to-door with out feeling a "bump."
this will close the gap on the bottom, but keep an eye on the top from opening too much.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Great, I will try that.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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Because you were so helpful:
How do i remove this metal clips on the door panels? I need to remove the trim without braking it:

 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Use a small screwdriver to pry up the lip on one side that locks the thing on the stud. Do it gently so as to not break it, but if you spring it you can flatten it with pliers before placing it back on.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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Gary beat me to it, Again!!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 02:04 PM
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You guys are so great, I will try another one:

What will be the way to reattach this (window seals)? I'm planning to get new at LMC (49-7132) and wonder is they will come with staples or what's appropriate mounts:


 

Last edited by nikmish; Dec 2, 2014 at 02:07 PM. Reason: updated image
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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Pop rivets, as suggested by David. I used a staple gun and it worked for one door panel. On the other one it broke the door panel. But the pop rivets, with appropriate washers to spread the load, did a perfect job.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Bet me again Gary! (isn't it time for your nap?)
 
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