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first 360/390 build..

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #16  
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if no rockers moving , then sounds like chain broke .
+1 on new water pump while you have front of engine apart
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #17  
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Those big heavy 18" wheels are not conducive to good economy. Like previously suggested, 285/75's on the back, stock tires up front. My 73 250 with 3.73's did pretty good with this setup. If you want to hang with traffic on the interstate, plan on 4-6 mpg's @ 75-80+ mph.

To make the exhaust maniflod surface right, pull the heads and have that surface milled by a competent machine shop. Have all the holes retapped. If you run manifolds, have them surfaced as well. Do not run gaskets! They accelerate the warpage of the flange. It was a metal to metal fit factory. I guess you may need gaskets with headers. Good luck keeping them sealed. I had a set of hooker super comps on my last fe and they sealed, I have seen not so good results with cheapo headers.

If the timing chain gets the 360 going in what sounds like your driver, build the 390 so you're not afoot in the mean time. It won't get any worse mileage at 75 mph than the 360 will, and you may not burn as much fuel accelerating because you will reach your cruising speed faster!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #18  
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i personally use high temp rtv silicone for my headers and it works perfectly.... on taking the timing cover off and such do yourself a favor and pull the radiator it gives you a lot more room to work with....don't forget the pan bolts that hold the timing chain on.... the worst part of the whole process is getting the harmonic balancer and sleeve off i have had them stuck on pretty good and don't lose the keys..... also another good hint is when you get your timing cover off put a rag across the open gap between block and pan so contaminates don't get down into your oil....another helpful hint some timing chain gear sets come with what looks like a washer and some have the spacer built onto the timing gear itself under no circumstances should you put the washer and spacer together it will destroy distributers (i had this problem before its under the title that dang 352)..... have fun and good luck if you run on to any trouble let us know we will try to help
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 12:07 AM
  #19  
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thanks for everything guys! I decided that since I need to take it apart a little bit. ill just do it all at once. all new gaskets and seals. for the engine and tranny, bearing, piston rings, a valve job, intake manifold and hooker headers. distributer. should be fun anything I should be looking for as far as internal engine damage?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 06:40 AM
  #20  
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bent valves maybe but you would notice that right off
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 08:58 AM
  #21  
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#1 BUY THIS BOOK and read before tearing motor down .
How To Rebuild BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES: Steve Christ: 0075478000708: Amazon.com: Books How To Rebuild BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES: Steve Christ: 0075478000708: Amazon.com: Books
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 09:02 AM
  #22  
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I built my 390 with the help of that book and the knowledge of this forums members.
It was my first FE build .
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #23  
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okay so im ordering an engine re-ringing kit. new timeing gears and chain. hooker headers an intake a carb and a distributer.. as for a cam shaft what should I be looking for as far as lift duration and all that?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:36 AM
  #24  
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take a look at the lunanti 62002 cam kit it's a nice healthy RV cam
.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:28 PM
  #25  
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x2 on Mikes post
 
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 02:27 AM
  #26  
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finally got the engine apart. taking the crank and the block to the machine shop in the morning!! found the funding for the build so not ill start building. once I get the block back I want to order a rebuild kit, a complete rebuild kit. who makes the best kits for the 360's? id like to order everything from the same place any suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:07 PM
  #27  
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Mabbco motors is my preference /www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog.php/Rebuild-Kit/Rebuild_Kits_-_FREE_SHIPPING_IN_CONTINENTAL_USA/Ford/Ford_390_6.4_Master_Engine_Rebuild_Kit_1964-1976/734
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 11:23 AM
  #28  
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sweet^ thanks! and I just dropped off my crank and flywheel at the machine shop. they said 50 for the flywheel resurfacing and 75 for the crank. does that seem about right? I didn't think it was to bad but I figured I should ask
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #29  
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about normal around here at least
 
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 10:56 AM
  #30  
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just went down to the machine shop to check on my parts. they said that the crank in unuseable because the timing gear on the crank has spun. therefore the crank is slightly smaller where the gear press fits on??? does this sound legimate? can I get an oversized timeing gear? if I need to get a new crank where can I get one cheapish?
 
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