Hey guys, just went to an NTB around my house to get my truck aligned. Learned that i need a new right drag link, which attaches to the pitman arm. They want 85.76 for the part which..in this estimate states "local purchased parts are new or remanufactured, unless otherwise stated" which kind of has me spooked. I don't like to put junk in my truck, and i don't know what i'm getting here. What can i get that is good quality at a decent price? How hard is a drag link to remove and install, could i do it or does it need special tools? I have the fork but anything else? I am mechanically inclined. Also, they want 67.99 to install the damn thing, which i would like to get out of if i can install it myself. They want $60 dollars to align the truck, but want $100 dollars for two 2 degree camber adjustment nuts (they seem to call them shims, they the same thing?)

Total for the job they want is $318 for alignment, camber nuts, and a new drag link. I do need the drag link, no question about that. But can i get one myself and install it? I'm in the works of a 4x4 conversion in the summer so i don't think i'm gonna bother with the alignment because once the 4x4 is in i will just need to align it again. If i mark the amount of turns the drag link is screwed on, i can just install the new one based on that to keep what alignment i have somewhat decent? Thanks in advance.




Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
NEW PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)


Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L

 

I just helped my neighbor change out the drag link and inner and outer tie rod ends and the piece that goes to the pittman arm.Nothing to it,you will need a pickle fork to get the pitman arm piece off.I think he spent $100 total,but that was at auto zone.change the parts and take it somewhere else for the alignment.That sounds steep for the camber shims.

Billy

 

I did a complete tie rod install on my rig. I bought all of the parts including the drag link, and all of the rods and ends for 200.00 from a local parts store. I've also seen JCWhitney have complete sets but who knows what the quality was.

As for the install, all of my rods just practically fell off. I did not have a fork and I figured I'd try before buying one. I WD-40'd all of the nuts and joints about one day before I began. All it took was a light tug and they all fell off. As far as the drag link, after the nut came off all I had to do was lightly tap on it with a hammer and it fell off. I don't recommend slugging it with a 8lb maul but a few light taps won't hurt anything.

As far as the alignment I just counted the threads on each rod and wrote it down before I took everything apart. I've heard of some people using tape also. I would probably suggest using both. Just count the threads and write it down. Then put a piece of tape at the beginning of the threads to mark how far it went back. Then remove and install the new arms. Counting the threads gives you a backup plan incase the tape falls off.

I drove mine about 1 month before I had to get an alignment. I noticed no problem as far as driving went but who knows how it was wearing on the tires. I went to a local Les Schwab (a local tire/shocks/alignment chain store) and had the full 4x4 alignment done for 130.00 which included the new casters..

 

Thanks, the 60 bucks on the alignment doesn't sound bad but they want 100 bucks for two camber nuts, thats a lot isn't it? Can i just buy those myself somewhere cheaper?


Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
NEW PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)


Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L

 

You don't need the pickle for like someone above said hitting the joint with a hammer is fine. It's ok to hit them hard too. As far as the Camber shims/nuts, their can be a difference. You can purchase a shim it's like a big washer that goes below the spring on the spring seat that will increase your camber. It will actually increase it almost 1 deg.

There is also a camber "cam" or "slug" that goes around the upper ball joint. This is how most people adjust camber and caster. The spring shim you could easily do yourself but only if you know your camber is too negative. you should be able to see this by looking at your front tires with the wheels pointed straight before you've replaced your tie rods and changed toe. If your wheels are pointed in at the top significantly you could use the shims. The cams you can't really tell about because without knowing what your alignment is at and what it needs to be at you won't know what cam to put in. Good luck , Max

 

Ok...i used to work at a NTB store so here it goes. The part about the reman or new parts thing....that just means that they'll get a part from a local store. They will purchace good parts, theyr'e not allowed to buy junk. Secondly the install of the pitman arm, you can do it yourself. As for the alignment, take it in, NTB should use alignment cams, not the shims, It is worth the 160 that it costs, The alignment should come with a 6 month warranty from ntb.

Ryan

 

Thanks...again..Ryan, and the other posters.




Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
NEW PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)


Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L