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Hi, I have just installed gt40p heads with comp springs, a 35-320-8 comp cam, and ford racing headers on my 96 f150 351w. I started it up for the first time and it fired right up oddly considering I had guessed the timing without a timing light and the truck ran almost perfect. Well I broke in the cam and let it run a few times and then remembered I hadn't tightened the distributor bolt up. Well after I tightened it I started it the next day and It wouldn't run quite right and seemed out of time and was also backfiring lightly out of the exhaust. I tried to adjust the distributor but couldn't get it to run the right way again. My dad had looked at it and was wanting me to also find out if the stock pushrods for the 1996 351w are to long or short for the new gt40p heads, he seems to think there's something else wrong but If it ran well before then I'm having trouble believing it and think that its the timing we just cant get in time. Thank you for stopping by.
If the timing can't be set because the distributor won't turn where it needs to you will have to pull it and drop it back in a tooth over.
I believe that the pushrod pre-load should have been about 3/4 turn on the pivot bolt after contact. I used the (non P) GT heads on one of my 351s and it was a direct swap.
Roller cams don't break in. Did you put a timing light in it to see what the timing was set at? Did you remove the spout plug to set the base timing? This cam will produce a noticable idle.. some spitting and sputtering, and will not idle as smooth as stock or pass a sniffer test.. .hopefully you don't have that in your region.
No I didn't. I can't find it.(Spout Plug) I looked it up and pictures of it but cant find it anywhere. It says it'll be close to the distributor or over by the ignition module on the drivers side fender well. That would make sense though considering it ran right the first time and the second time but then the next day it just changed out of no where. I am trying to get someone with a timing light to come hook it up since I do not have one.
I looked there but still can't find one. What do the wires lead into and come from? I did find a taped off bundle of wires that look as if someone cut them exactly where the spout is in this picture. I seen it before I started the build but thought it just came from the factory this way. The only other person who's owned this truck is my dad he bought it in 97 but I wouldn't think it'd run right if this were the spout cut off like that.
Ok I'm gonna check again. I've looked a dozen times. I've looked by the distributor to I've read that it could be there or the drivers side fender. Could the plug in look different than the two pictures posted here? Or are they all the same?
Ok I finally found it. It was taped up and underneath some stuff and inside the conduit tubing. Now that I found it. I take and start it with the spout out, get it all in time, then bolt down the distributor once it is in time, then I plug the spout in last? What keeps it from advancing once the spout is plugged back in?
Pulling the SPOUT connector allows you to set the BASE timing and keeps the PCM from controlling it. Once you connect it back, then the PCM can control advancement and retarding for fuel table and load, and other stuff.
Ok I will try it in the morning and let everyone know how it goes. It's to loud to start this late, even though I'm in Missouri and the riots are of more concern, I still cant wake the neighbors.
I've got a stupid question, but my Haynes manual doesn't tell me. What is the indicator dial on the crank pulley supposed to point to while the rotar bug is at the number 1 spark plug wire. -10, 0, or 10 degrees?
Ive got it on that but when the rotary bug on the distributor points to number 1 spark plug wire on the distributor what should the indicator on the crank point to