I don't have a picture handy but the outer pins on each plug on the valve cover gasket are what you need to check. While you're doing that you can check your injector pins too. They are the ones beside the gp pins and should be about 3.2 each. Test them to the middle pin in the gasket as its a common ground.

 

Very nice truck!! I like the mirrors, if you can find a name on those, I would be most interested! Can we get some pictures of the interior?

 

Each glow plug is connected to the outermost terminal on each UVCH connector on the gasket. The glow plugs complete their circuit by grounding through the cylinder head. So to measure resistance, put one meter probe on one of those outermost terminals, and the other on a good ground (battery - post). Then do the same on the other outermost terminal. For example, the passenger side forward connector energizes the #1 and #3 glow plugs and injectors. So the forward-most terminal of that connector goes to the #1 GP, and the furthest aft terminal on that connector goes to the #3 GP.

Then, of course, repeat for the other three connectors.

So you initially put one probe on each of the outermost terminals? That, in effect, would measure the SUM of the resistances of the two GPs. So if that came up with 2 ohms, hopefully that means 1 ohm for each GP. But to be certain, measure as described here.

 

The mirrors don't have a name on them and upon closer inspection almost appear to be custom, will get some close up pictures of it and the interior.


As for the valve cover gaskets ever single one ohms out at 2.6 which if I'm reading right. "A resistance measurement of .1 to 2 ohms indicates a good glow plug." My plugs are .6 ohms past a good plug correct?

 

Also checked the continuity of the wiring harness and according to the test page I'm within the specs at 2.5 ohms each. So it looks like I will be replacing glow plugs.

 

Mint interior, had seat covers since 2nd owner bought it.



I think these mirrors are custom made by the first owner, no names on them.

 

Wow, I like that mirror a lot! I guess I'll have to scour some junk yards!

 

Spent 3.5-4 hours yesterday replacing all my glow plugs, what a fun experience. It went way faster than I thought it would.


Uncle told me the ford dealership charges $1,800 to replace them, I think I could do that for a few days and take a mini vacation!

 

Yikes!! That's why I learned a long time ago, buy a couple manuals, and do the work yourself. Tools are a one time expense, after that, they start paying themselves off the more you use them. # 7 and 8 GP's were tricky, had to use a couple swivel socket adapters.

 

The hardest part was the last 2 on the drivers side and the last one on the passenger side only getting the rubber on it not putting it in or taking it out.


Another 20* day here in Michigan. Still won't fire. I cycle the key on/off a few times, after the WTS light goes out, and try it again. Mind you I hear the relay click every time. It turns over and over and over, one time it ran for about a second then turned over and over. I repeated this for a few minutes, probably cycling the key a dozen times, still no start.

 

Do you have a way to check draw on the gp system.

 

I didn't even to the rubber tube method. Taking them out was easy enough. But putting them back in, I started all of them by hand and socket extension.

Did you check your UVCH? I replaced mine when I did GP's. Connectors were burnt and oil was in the inside connector. Also, they were the old style 2 piece connectors. The new ones are all one piece(what I replaced them with). Pigtails could be bad too. When you replace, just make sure you solder the splice for a good connection.

Did you replace your GPR?
IIRC check relay fuse 2 in the engine fuse box. That is your GPR fuse. The other thing I would check is crud on your GRP take some embry paper to the connections and terminals, you could have weak connection there. How far is your battery meter dropping when you key on? Is your WTS light dim, or flickering?

Only other thing I can think of, is check you CPS, another common point of failure.

 

One piece connector into the GP under the valve cover?

As for the cold start, according to the no start chart, I just have to plug it in every night which makes me a little worried about driving it to work and having a no start. My uncle did tell me about a spray he used before on his 7.3 that you spray in the air box when it's cold and it fires right up

 

This is the one piece design.
http://www.google.com.kw/imgres?i

This is the 2 piece design

http://www.google.com.kw/
EDITL the 2 piece design is from an 01, but you get the idea I hope.
IF for some reason the links to the pictures doesn't work, google will show you.

Plugging in, plenty of times I have had to do that, GP's simply weren't enough. Diesel 911 and a thermal blanket too.

I imagine it was either ether or starting fluid your uncle used. Neither of which you want to use on the trucks. I read that too much can liquid-hyrdo lock a cylinder, and could also potentially spin the engine backwards. Either way, with GP's it can pre-ignite the stuff, not good.

I watched a big flame come out the turbo/air intake on my buddies 7.3 from using too much ether/starting fluid once. Luckily he didn't have the air filter on! Truck started up, and was fine, but it gave us a good scare! So I guess word of caution with using that stuff.

I don't think the IDI's were as negatively affected by it though, my buddy used ether and a gas rag on the air intake on his 6.9, fired right up when mine wouldn't.

Somebody else chime in, but I think it's ok to use ether, as long as you disconnect the GP's, and only use a quick shot or two at a time.

 

Don't cycle the key after the light goes out. Just leave it in the on position for a while before you crank it over. The gp's stay on for up to 2 minutes. IF I have to start mine when its cold i leave the key on for about 1 minute then crank it.

Test the gpr too. One big post should have power all the time, the other when the key is on. Should be no more than .3v difference between the big posts with the key on.

Starting fluid is ok to use with the gp's disconnected (definitely not a fan of it and do not suggest using it), but with a properly working gp system it won't be needed.