Building The Beast (phase 2)
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From: Where the Army sends me
Building The Beast (phase 2)
Now that the engine is sealed and running, it is time to look at getting that power to the road. Well, not just that, but stopping a rampaging beast too.
So this thread will be dedicated to driveline, suspension, and brakes.
To begin with, I would like to discuss brakes a bit. I'm looking at these single piston calipers in the front and thinking: not quite enough. Does any company offer an upgrade kit to 4 piston calipers? Traffic in El Paso sucks, and I want to be ready to stop on a quarter (no F250 can stop on a dime loaded). Also, what is the best drum upgrade for the back axle? I still have the factory Dana 60 back there.
The beast is staying 2WD and I will likely install load helper springs and shocks to prioritize towing.
Any and all advice is welcome and will be discussed.
So this thread will be dedicated to driveline, suspension, and brakes.
To begin with, I would like to discuss brakes a bit. I'm looking at these single piston calipers in the front and thinking: not quite enough. Does any company offer an upgrade kit to 4 piston calipers? Traffic in El Paso sucks, and I want to be ready to stop on a quarter (no F250 can stop on a dime loaded). Also, what is the best drum upgrade for the back axle? I still have the factory Dana 60 back there.
The beast is staying 2WD and I will likely install load helper springs and shocks to prioritize towing.
Any and all advice is welcome and will be discussed.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Algona,WA
Isn't yours a 3/4 ton? mine has dual piston calipers... Mine stops great, will throw your face in the dash if you step on it hard enough. No need for quad piston calipers. I drive in heavy traffic all the time with mine. Duals will do just fine.
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I called Wilwood, Baer, and a company out of Tempe,AZ that Wilwood suggested. No dice on anything with 8-6.5" bolt circle. Nothing from 70's, 80's, or early 90's 3/4 tons. Going factory style duals is about my only option.
Gary, as yours is an F150, you might have better luck. You could also try the dual pistons if the rotors are the same dimensions.
All, this means I am looking at swapping in the dual piston calibers and probably rear drums from the 8600+ gross package. And the master cylinder, and the lines. But what about the proportioning valve and booster? Will those cross over?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Algona,WA
Comforting to know, but I have the under 8600 lb brakes, so basically F150 single big-bore pistons.
I called Wilwood, Baer, and a company out of Tempe,AZ that Wilwood suggested. No dice on anything with 8-6.5" bolt circle. Nothing from 70's, 80's, or early 90's 3/4 tons. Going factory style duals is about my only option.
Gary, as yours is an F150, you might have better luck. You could also try the dual pistons if the rotors are the same dimensions.
All, this means I am looking at swapping in the dual piston calibers and probably rear drums from the 8600+ gross package. And the master cylinder, and the lines. But what about the proportioning valve and booster? Will those cross over?
I called Wilwood, Baer, and a company out of Tempe,AZ that Wilwood suggested. No dice on anything with 8-6.5" bolt circle. Nothing from 70's, 80's, or early 90's 3/4 tons. Going factory style duals is about my only option.
Gary, as yours is an F150, you might have better luck. You could also try the dual pistons if the rotors are the same dimensions.
All, this means I am looking at swapping in the dual piston calibers and probably rear drums from the 8600+ gross package. And the master cylinder, and the lines. But what about the proportioning valve and booster? Will those cross over?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
HD rear drums are 3 or 3 1/2".
I don't think your axles are long enough (or the housing is too long)
Probably be time and money ahead to just swap the whole rear axle/springs in from a heavier truck.
... And get the LSD that you want at the same time.
You could then sell yours and recoup some $.
I don't know enough about the 2wd front ends to tell you which spindles will fit.
I don't think your axles are long enough (or the housing is too long)
Probably be time and money ahead to just swap the whole rear axle/springs in from a heavier truck.
... And get the LSD that you want at the same time.
You could then sell yours and recoup some $.
I don't know enough about the 2wd front ends to tell you which spindles will fit.
Logistics Pro
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From: Algona,WA
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Something like that. I'll post it up after work. And I'll try to get a video of the beast running. I've had some FB friends request it.
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From: Where the Army sends me
Critter - The best I seem to be able to do is to put a link to it, and I don't know that it'll work for others. Check it and let me know.
Btw: what is everyone's opinion on Energy Suspension red bushings?
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So, can we get back to the question regarding Energy Suspension? I am actually MISSING a sway bar bushing up front, and the full bushing kit for the front sway bar is not too far off from getting the bushings/end links separately at OE quality. The question is are they worth the extra $2?
I'm liking Monroe for the shocks. I will probably do front shocks and sway bar next weekend.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Algona,WA
I'm going to do my leaf spring bushings in the spring with the Energy suspension ones. I'm going to put Skyjacker hydro 7000 shocks on the rear. Supposed to be valved for a softer ride and I know a guy who put them on his 82 2WD F150 and loves them. For what I do, I need a softer ride. FWIW my truck has had Monroe sensa trac's on all the way around since 7-22-1996 and they have 108,000 miles on them and still work fine. Very durable. I'd be interested to know how you like the energy suspension bushings after they're installed and been driven with.