Hey everyone, I bought a junker 87 F250 4x4 with 351windsor.

Carb was shot, just bought a new Holley 600. Vacuum lines are all over the place either broken, or not connected and looks like I'm missing some other things as well.

Also it looks like I'm missing the vacuum canister. At first I thought this black can was it but it turns out the air pumps are hooked up to one side of it with nothing on the other. It also appears that the charcoal canisters down by the radiator are not hooked up to the tanks. All i see are vacuum and egr lines coming out of one side of each.

I thought i could just delete the egr/vacuum system entirely but I just want to get rid of what absolutely doesn't need to be there. I could use all the help I can get to fix it and get it running.

Also found a tree branch shoved into a vacuum line to block it off, just so you understand the extent of the mess.

Pictures will be below, thanks!





IDK what this canister is. Hooked up to air pumps.





Air pumps also reroute here.

















Lines off the manifold merge from both sides and route to air pumps.

















Air pumps i believe?









































Heater hoses? Looks like they've just been recirculated.

 

Unfriggen believable! And I don't just mean the hacked up parts. Does that truck have an original cat on it still and do you have to get this thing smog inspected? If the answer is no to both of them you can completely remove all the smog plumbing and air pump because they serve no purpose anymore, and if it were my truck I'd remove the exhaust manifolds and install shorty headers just so I wouldn't have to deal with those air lines.

Then you can replace and streamline the vacuum system, the only thing necessary is a vacuum canister for the dash controls, a direct supply for the brake booster, and one for the distributor if it's vacuum actuated. I'd delete the EGR too if it was mine.

 

Thanks again Conanski. Its a non-catalyst 5.8, no cat at all and it does not need smog inspection. I'm planning on removing both air pumps and all the plumbing, cleaning up the vacuum lines and capping anything non-essential.

Is there a reliable way to cap off the exhaust manifold lines and the rear head line without having to remove all the pipes just yet?

Could I get away with tee-ing the HVAC line to the manifold vacuum port, also tee-ing the brake booster to the same tee, and the distributor to another? The new carb doesn't have space for the EGR so I imagine it has to be disconnected now. Thank you for all the help!

 

You can run the EGR off a ported vacuum source. It's not quite the same as the EGR port but it'll work. However, the carb is likely jetted richer and there will be no problem eliminating the egr. On my tow truck where everything is hacked and I replaced the carb with a Summit carb I only have the vacuum advance, PCV, brake booster and HVAC controls hooked up. I've got the dizzy hooked up to manifold vacuum now, but I may go to ported. I did so much research on that but I can't remember now. I was thinking if I went to ported I could use a red vacuum valve and have it switch over to manifold vacuum when it gets too hot so it'll speed the engine up a bit for more cooling.

I too am interested in a better way to plug the air tubes. Mine are really butchered... Cut and bent over... And leaking...

 

Hey f100beatertruck, thanks for chiming in. I'm interested in knowing if your PCV, booster and HVAC are hooked up directly to the manifold vacuum source or else where? Also, should I look into hooking up a "vacuum advance" line, is this different from the "distributor advance" on the vacuum diagram?

Thank you

 

Distributor advance and vacuum advance are the same thing. The PCV was hooked to the baseplate of the 4180, but there isn't anything similar on the Summit carb so I went right to manifold vacuum. The baseplate was full vacuum too, the only difference is that I feel the baseplate is more distributed whereas the in manifold port is not. Don't care. The booster is full manifold vac as well. I'll have to double check the hvac but I believe that's full vac also.

 

Thanks for the info on the vacuum setup, it helps a lot!! If you ever figure out a way to clean up the air injection system then please let me know.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-460-f250.html

 

Welcome to the forum!

The first thing I'd do is clean that engine bay.
I hate getting greasy and dirty in places I didn't know while reaching for something else. (back of the arm is a favorite for leaving stains on the sofa, SO, etc..)

Winter is here.
That heater core is a 20 minute job from behind the glove box.
Be sure to reinstall the rubber seal at the top so air does not go around the core, and you will have great heat.
Those hoses look old enough that you might splurge the $8 or so and replace them while you're there.

The crossover at the back of the heads can be removed and blocked with 5/8-11 bolts that are cut to less than 3/4" long.

You might try finding an alternator mount for a pre emissions vehicle and then that whole A.I.R. pump bracket can go.

If you can get those bungs out of the exhaust manifolds NAPA has plugs that will fit.
Cheap, in a pack of 10.
Not sure of the thread on your 351.

At it's most basic, vacuum lines are only needed for the brake booster, PCV, climate control and distributor.
Ford ran manifold vacuum through a plastic restrictor to the distributor on most (if not all) DuraSpark vehicles.
Look for a little nib in the vacuum line at the yellow switch valve on the thermostat housing.

Given your username I would suggest running the stock air cleaner with a heat riser. (one more vacuum line needed)
Cobble something together with a tin can since it appears yours is rusted right off the manifold.

What is that spring on the side of your master cylinder?
I'm on my phone so pic's are a little bit of a challenge.

Maybe you could post a pic of the vacuum routing diagram under the hood if it still exists?

ETA; It is NOT me dropping advertising hyperlinks into my posts.
Pisses me off, but I suppose the forum has to make money somehow...

 

Thanks f100beatertruck! I saw that just before you posted it, good read.

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Thanks for the help!! Just a few more questions before I can get this thing running.





BTW I believe that spring on the brake master is just an extra part the PO left there for some reason and the screw in the vacuum hose also haha





Can you explain the "heat riser" more? I can't seem to find a lot of info on it.
Also, what does the distributor restrictor look like more accurately?
Would you recommend replacing the heater core now or is it worth trying at first? (I'm only concerned that it's been open to the elements.)

Found some questionable items as well (pictures below)
These lines coming from the tanks appeared to be going to the charcoal canisters. If so, what is the best way to block these or reroute them? Is it as simple as capping it at the T where the 2 tanks merge?



What is this wire and where should I route it to now?




I think this went to the old choke?

 

The device on the firewall is a vacuum tree(splitter) if I'm not mistaken, you will find this type device on most vehicles and there are versions for smaller hoses, a trip to the scrapyard should produce some parts you can use to construct a custom vacuum system for your engine bay.

 

Pardon me, on my phone.
I lose the whole thread in the reply window...
The heat riser is a shroud that covers the exhaust manifold and directs warm air into the bottom of the air cleaner snorkel through a foil flex tube.
You can see (air cl diverter) in the upper left of your diagram.

I don't see a restrictor (Vrest) in your distributor plumbing.
It seems the vacuum control valve (VCV) just switches between ported and manifold vacuum sources.

 

DEFINITELY replace the core.
There is a reason that butcher bypassed it!

The white/black stator wire did go to the electric choke of the stock 4180 carb.
It provides power only with the alternator turning.
So, if the engine stalls while warming up, the choke cools off instead of continuing to open.

 

The idea with a heat riser system is it provides a little warm air to the carb to keep it from icing up in the winter. Usually there is just a metal shrowd around one of the exhaust manifolds and a vacuum operated butterfly valve that allows heat to rise into the air cleaner through a flex hose. The original system on your truck includes the butterfly valve that can be seen in this pic just below the exhaust manifold, but I'm not sure what the logic was to put a butterfly valve inline to allow it to completely block exhaust to one side of the motor. How does that help heat the carb? IMO removing this valve is another reason to get rid of these manifolds but I understand about wanting to take it a step at a time and just get the thing running. What I'd suggest is to get a manifold shrowd and heat riser from another motor to swap in here.

 

Paul,
The butterfly block off valve is there to produce more back pressure on one bank and force heat across the crossover in the plenum floor.
This keeps raw fuel from pooling directly beneath the carb.

I'm talking about a manifold shroud that directs warm air into the air filter housing.
There is a bimetallic vacuum switch in the housing that controls a flap in the air inlet.
Ideally this keeps inlet air at 105*, or whatever the set point is.
Cooler air may make more power, but there is no way for a 'dumb' carburetor to compensate.
Emissions requirements force the best of a worst case scenario.