Hello everyone,
2 questions.

Took out egr valve to clean today and of course it was nasty.. but when I looked in hole where it goes I could for sure see some moisture towards the front of the hole. I remember reading somewhere about this but can't find the cause.

And.. Once I do the egr delete will this fix that issue?

Thank you all in adavanced!

 

If coolant you may have an egr cooler leak. Is this the delete your planning on doing or the valve it self.
A gooey mess could be just fresh oil. Does it smell sweet or like petroleum?

 

I didn't smell... rookie move right there. I'll pull it back out tomorrow and check the smell.

It's right under the egr valve. I am planning on doing the egr delete but was still concerned about the fluid moisture.

 

There are 2 different deletes the egr cooler and the egr valve itself which is why I asked.
2 sepertly and different proceduers.

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CHVWYY/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item

This is the kit I ordered. If you have a better recommendation. .. please let me know.

 

I'll secound pulling the EGR valve back out and smear your finger or rag through the mystery substance to see if it's coolant or oil. The oil should be built up blow by from the crankcase. Before you pull your EGR cooler out (if indeed you have coolant in the intake)...take your truck for a cruise and see what your delta is between EOT and ECT. You'll need to have it up to operating temperature (190F-ish) on the ECT and the trucking running about 65mph on relatively flat ground. If your oil temperature is more than 15F warmer than your coolant...your oil cooler is clogged. Which would have lead to your EGR cooler's failure.

While the cooler in the link you've post is fine...this is really all you need:

Sinister Basic EGR Cooler Delete Kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance

The only hardware differences between the 03/04 trucks and the 05/06/07 trucks are the style of the EGR cooler and the scoop in the up-pipe. Some will tell you that you've got to swap that up-pipe or cut the scoop out. I'm not going to tell you that you've got to do it or the world will stop turning; but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. I will tell you that I used the above kit on my 04 and other than the soft code (no CEL) for low EGR flow...my truck runs just fine. Be aware that you MUST leave the EGR valve plugged in or you run the risk of overheating your truck. If the valve is unplugged, the PCM won't spoil the radiator fan to keep the engine from overheating.

 

Great info! Thank you for the reply. You answered my question about the egr still being plugged in..
I'm thinking about replacing the oil cooler since it will all be wide open... any thoughts on that and brand?

 

OEM...either Navistar or Motorcraft/Ford package is the ONLY thing I would use on this motor. If you want to see something scary, search Dorman in this forum...it'll give you nightmares. When I did mine two years ago (high delta) I bought a bunch of parts from Clay...including this Ford oil cooler kit:

Oil Cooler Kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance

You might find a better deal somewhere else, but I can assure you his customer service is second to none. I can only remember once having an issue with an order from Clay and he was quick to resolve the issue in a manor that we both were happy. If I were you...and assuming your oil cooler is clogged...

(A) flush your engine and get rid of that Ford gold coolant. You'll need either Ford VC9 or Prestone Restore flush to get everything clean. Do this before you pull anything from the engine; don't want to pump that stuff through your new oil cooler after your done.
(B) while you've got your intake out/exposed; soak it with an aluminum safe cleaner for 10-12 hours then take it to a car wash and wash it out. Mine as well do while you've got it out of the truck, especially if your going to delete the EGR cooler.
(C) after you get everything back together; go with an extended life coolant like Caterpillar ELC or Napa Zerex. I subscribe to the theory that Ford gold coolant is the root of the problems with the oil cooler & EGR cooler. I went with Cat ELC 238-8647 (concentrate); the 50/50 premixed is 238-8648. I figure if works great in a 1000hp bulldozer; it'll work well in my 325hp trailer queen.
(D) get yourself a coolant filter. While you don't have to do this, it will catch all the crap that can/will clog your oil cooler. Generally the oil coolers don't fail...they just fill up with crap. Which lead to their failure to function.
(E) clean/inspect your turbo's vanes & unison ring. You'll need to pull the turbo to get to the EGR cooler. As well as inspect/replace your CAC boots; especially the hot side.

If you need links or instructions...I can look them up for you. I think a good Ford tech and pull an oil cooler/EGR cooler and clean the turbo....and have it all back in and running in something like five hours. My truck took me a weekend...but I'm not fast and I don't work on 6.0L for a living.

 

Good advise.. so your saying stick with the oem oil cooler? Won't it just have the same issues down the road? or when doing the egr delete with the new oil cooler and coolant filter will eliminate my problems?
I was looking at the oil coolers from bullet proof deisel. Pricey but that does seem like they would work. I love the truck and don't mind putting some money into it to make it right, just trying to get it right the first time as I've heard stories. I do plan on tackling this myself.

 

The most important part (at least one of the important ones) of the process is the PROPER flush prior to removal and install of the new cooler along with proper maintenance of the cooling system. You do that right the oem cooler won't let you down.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Like I said, I subscribe to the theory that the Ford Gold coolant is the root of the problem. The EGR cooler creates ALLOT of heat when the truck is working (towing/hauling duty) that is absorbed by the coolant. That heat causes the additives to "fall out" of suspension in the coolant. The oil cooler is a very efficient device because of it's small passages...it also acts like a filter because of those small passages. Thus, if you...in my opinion...continue to use the Ford Gold coolant, you'll be back in the same boat down the road with a clogged oil cooler. That will starve the EGR cooler of coolant and lead to it's failure; this assuming your EGR cooler has indeed failed. Thus why I suggested the change in coolant and/or a coolant filter. The DieselSite that's on my truck has a smaller micron rating than what the oil cooler does. Thus, the filter should clog before the oil cooler does; the filter is cheaper and easier to replace than the oil cooler.

This is the coolant filter system I used:
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx

In the 4 years I've had the filter on my truck...I've yet to clog a filter; but I changed coolant three years ago. I know of a guy here locally that has gone with a BPD remote oil cooler...it's huge compared to the OEM. I'm not sure of his reason for such a set-up; but I'm sure running a 500hp set-up creates allot of heat that stock coolers can't keep up with. If your going to get exotic with your truck, by all means start getting things in place for such. But if your just trying to resolve some short comings; I'd keep the stock oil cooler, it's a good design in my opinion.

 

Good info...
Thank you for your time in all that.
I just posted a post "sob now I know why he sold me the truck"

I need a radiator.. that's to start and I'm ordering the oem oil cooler. If I'm going to do the egr delete and have it all apart... just going to replace it. Is there anything else that I should consider doing once it's open like a can of worms?

 

I would say your STC fitting and dummy plugs. But if you've got 100k miles on the truck...I'm willing to bet they've already been replaced. Most of the OEM style failed between 65k and 85k miles; wouldn't hurt to see if your was. Would need an Oasis report to confirm...you can get one at your local Ford dealership service department; might cost you an oil change or some other token service. But I would ask, you'll be looking at the HPOP when the turbo is out. And other than cleaning the turbo's vanes & inspecting the unison ring...not much else to do.

 

Dummy plugs? I know I've read somewhere in here about them. You say the oem plugs fail.. so I'm assuming there are aftermarket ones and that I can do the work?

 

Not the plugs, but the o-rings that are on them fail. Sort of like the STC fitting...the original design usually goes around 65k to 85k miles. The revised design appears to be rather roboust. I was trying to find a diagram of where they are in relation to the high pressure oil rails (that feed the injectors) but the link I have is dead. How many miles (roughly) do you have on the truck? If your over 100k, I feel confident that they've already been replaced. But an Oasis should confirm that theory.