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89 no electrical

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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:29 PM
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89 no electrical

hello out there. first time posting. i have an 89 with a 351w 4x4, auto trans, efi. i tried to start it the other day. the battery died before it would crank. now, i have no lights or other electrical. as if it has no battery. i put the meter to the battery without the terminals on, i got low voltage. i put the cables back on and get zero volts. i replaced the ground wire to a different grounding point. still got zero volts. i tested the starter relay and it is reading as open. not sure what to do from this point. thanks
 
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Ok... So boost it with another vehicle... Once you disconnect the jumpers and it dies, the alternator is fried.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:12 PM
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Or better yet, replace the battery. It sounds like it is completely toast. If you're worried that it might be fine anyway, take it to your local auto parts store. They should have a meter which will measure its condition. If it's as bad as it sounds, even if it were charged up I don't think it would last very long.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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i actually have 2 batteries ive tried. same result. i did find that the starter relay (which i just replaced a few days before) was stuck open. im going to replace it again and and maybe have some luck from there. i have a few 1400 cranking amp batteries from a big generator. im tempted to hook that monster up. lol
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 06:39 PM
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Regardless of the state of the relay you should have lights and other electrical. Are you sure you have the wires hooked on the relay(solenoid) correctly?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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that was my thought too. im about to take my meter out and do some more testing. seems like i have a dead short somewhere. the relay wiring is spot on. i checked it all several times. my fear is that as the battery is being charged, something is stealing all my power before it even gets into the battery. (such as the starter, since the relay is stuck open). that will be the first place i look.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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Island Time
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Originally Posted by dstark181
i put the meter to the battery without the terminals on, i got low voltage. i put the cables back on and get zero volts.
First, what do you mean by "low volts". Anything below low 12's and you should recharge the battery before continuing.

The part that concerns me is that when you put the cables back on you report getting zero volts. Zero volts at the battery terminals, or zero volts somewhere else? If you are getting zero volts at the battery terminals the battery condition is so deteriorated that any load is collapsing the voltage to zero. If the battery is not totally dead than you have a massive short to ground, one that would create welding level arcs when you connect the battery terminals. Any in truth, I don't think that it is even possible to drop a healthy batteries voltage to zero volts immediately. But search youtube for people having fun short circuiting batteries. It's one of those "Don't try this at home." type things.

If you are getting zero voltages somewhere else, i.e. not at the battery terminals, where are you measuring the voltage?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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the voltage at the battery terminals is 0 volts. seems like i would have noticed an arc flash. maybe both of the batteries are shot. im going to try a newer battery.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:18 PM
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Save yourself some grief and take your batteries to your local auto parts store. They should have a tester that will tell you if the battery is any good and will usually do it for free figuring that if the battery is dead you'll buy a replacement from them, which you should do. You may be chasing your tell as a result of battery problems.

When tracking down electrical problems start at the beginning, the battery, then work your way in. Don't skip links in the chain, and make sure that each link is good. It will save you tons of time and potentially save you from buying parts that you didn't need if you are methodical in your troubleshooting.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:21 PM
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Just because I like to nitpick and for the sake of 100% clarity, are you measuring directly on the battery posts or on the post clamps? Dirty connections here can give you the symptoms you describe.

Of course, if the post clamps have been replaced with those bolt on repair pieces, replace them with proper new cables.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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Island Time
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From: Orcas Island, WA
Originally Posted by NotEnoughTrucks2014
Just because I like to nitpick and for the sake of 100% clarity, are you measuring directly on the battery posts or on the post clamps? Dirty connections here can give you the symptoms you describe.

Of course, if the post clamps have been replaced with those bolt on repair pieces, replace them with proper new cables.
Yeah, there's that as well. But I don't think it would drop it to zero volts unless they were really, really, nasty. Likewise for the clamp on terminal ends. Drop down to 3 or 4 volts, sure, but zero I don't see. I wish they'd banish those things from the face of the earth. There a great get me home fix. But the problem is that people use them as a permanent fix and wonder which their engine rolls over so slowly.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 08:56 PM
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i found the problem. it ended up being the battery was so far gone that it wouldnt hold a charge at all. it would hold about 5 volts max. i put a new battery in and problem solved. ive never seen a battery be that bad. when i hooked up the new battery, the key wasnt even in the ignition and the starter started spinning. so the relay is stuck in the open position. that could be part of why the battery was so bad. the starter was constantly getting power, just not enough to turn it over. thanks for all the help guys
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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Congrats.
 
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