I decided to join up this morning and see if you folks are really as smart as you seem.

While I was searching for information on different problems on trucks I have looked at and my own Ford Ranger, you all have been a great help. Thanks for all you have done!

I am looking to get a good diesel truck to drag a trailer around. It doesn't have to look great, but I want it to be dependable and not require three hours of work between driving one hour trips! I do have a business messing around with old tractors so this will be a business truck when it is all said and done. And that business does not have a budget to buy something big, huge, and neat (10000 is the max). What I need is something to get some work done until I find enough business to justify what I really know I need.

I am looking at a Ford F250. It is a 1984, 4WD manual hubs, automatic, extended cab. Diesel of course, IDI. Twin fuel tanks. Gooseneck hitch already in place. The body is a little rough, probably spent all 30 years outside. The bed is rotten in some places, but steel is not too expensive to create a new bed insert. It just flipped the odometer ~5000 miles ago, so who knows if it is 105000, 205000, or whatever..... but it starts great, runs great, seems to have plenty of power. Recent tires, new brakes, recent alignment.

The price is right to me. It needs work.

However, I have some concerns.

I'd like a tachometer in the truck, but it doesn't have one. How hard is it to install one? Not that I really need it, but I hate to think that I would redline the ol' diesel and not know it.

The fan blower resister is toast, but that is an easy fix.

The parking brake pedal is held up by a tie strap. I was told it was only a spring broken that held the pedal up. I suspect it is the cable, too. I never use the parking brake unless I really need it, since I know about cables freezing, but I would like to have it working. Is there really a spring, and how hard is it to replace the brake cable?

The speedometer runs up to 80. Around here, interstate speed limit is 70 and traffic usually runs 75. Where is the limit on this guy before the RPMs go up too high? I don't need to go fast, but I would like to run interstate.

Anything else I need to look for on a 1984 Ford F250?

Thanks in advance for your expert assistance.

 

Adding a tach to an IDI is a bit involved. They are available, but pricey. Tach would be nice to have, but not essential

I have an 89 E350 with the 7.3 IDI. Trust me, you do not need a speedometer that shows over 80 mph. Due to the lack of a tach, I really can't help you with any max RPM's.

 

Diesels have their best torque in low and mid rpm range, no need to be near red-line. Poor horsepower up there too. To me the 300 gas six is the same, if it's screamin' just wasting fuel. Someone might post the rpm's at 70 mph for you.

 

The truck's road speed is going to be determined by the axle gearing. There might still be a tag attached to the diff; the door label will also have a code for the original axle ratio.
AFAIK, the diesels were governed to 3300 rpm, via the injector pump.

Presumably it has a 3-speed C6 trans; so it might be a stretch to be both geared high enough for 75 mph, but still low enough to shift heavy trailers/machinery satisfactorily........in hills anyway.

 

Welcome to FTE

There is a spring inside the parking brake control (2780), but FoMoCo did not furnish it by itself, t'was only available with the control.

There are 3 parking brake cables: Front (2853); Right & Left rear (2A635).

Only basic part numbers are shown in illustrations, the text section is required to get the complete part number by adding the apropos prefix & suffix.

IMO, the worst mechanical problem that occurs with 1980/86 trucks are with the fuel tank selector valve & solenoid assy's. They've been troublesome turds since day one!

There are several different types of gas and diesel valves, depends on the year and the number of ports.

 

I have a 7.3 in my 89. if you want a tach, you will have to get one from a early diesel and also get the sensor that mounts in the top of the gear housing that drives the injection pump. The sensor reads the teeth on the gear since a diesel doesn't have a ignition system.

These are old school diesels. They do not have much power and are a little slow. They are very heavily built engines, and are made to run all day with the pedal to the floor. And you will find pulling weight with it, you will be doing that a lot, but it won't hurt it. Like someone else said, they have a governor at around 3300rpm for this purpose. If you want to go faster, you can put a aftermarket turbo kit on it.

You said it starts fine. Was it dead cold when you started it? Make sure when you test it, it's been sitting overnight and see how it starts.

 

Thanks to everyone on their very helpful replies. You guys do know these old Fords!

I decided to pass up that truck. Main reason was that the more I looked at the frame and internals, the more potential problems I saw. I suspect the odometer had flipped twice by the way the poor ol' guy looked.