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I do not think anyone has tried replacing just the gauge inside a idiot light cluster. Seems if it's possible, it would be a lot of modification. It's simpler just to change out the whole cluster. But if you do that, then you will have to do a little bit of re-wiring to make the alternator still work and charge.
This is a lot of work for a set of gauges that don't tell you much. Just "L NORMAL H" doesn't do much for troubleshooting. If it were my truck I would buy some real gauges and put them under the dash.
You can get a set of three gauges in a mounting bracket pretty cheaply. Most will have a mechanical oil gauge. I think they are the most accurate and they don't use a sending unit. I hate them however.
You have to run a small line from the engine to the gauge and they always seem to leak; oil everywhere...
Put in a sending unit and go with an electric oil gauge. Save some grief..
I always use the mechanical type gauges. The only problem I ever had was the plastic tubing got against the exhaust manifold once and melted. That was my own dumb fault after I was working on the engine and didn't put it back out of the way of the manifold.
I'm with Dave - I like the mechanical gauges. One reason is the simplicity. The other, and to me a large reason, is that the electrical gauges have a 90 degree sweep while most mechanical gauges have a 270 degree sweep. And since those gauges usually get mounted in a very inconvenient location to view, the extra sweep means they are three times as easy to read or ballpark.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.