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Rear disc brake conversion

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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Rear disc brake conversion

Anybody use this kit?
Seems reasonable/simple...what am I missing?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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Disc/disc MC, prop valve, hoses, brake tubing mounts, clips, and a coupla fittings.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:02 PM
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The rear disc brake components in your link are actually Explorer rear disc brakes for an 8.8" rear end housing.

The Explorer has the same (4) bolt hole flange pattern as the newer style Ford 9-inch large bearing rear end flange pattern. --the newer style large bearing flange is also referenced as the 'Torino' style flange.

The disc brake kit will bolt up to the newer/Torino large bearing 9-inch housing.

Unfortunately, our old trucks have the old style large axle bearing flange bolt pattern and those rear discs won't bolt up to the existing flanges at the ends of the housing tubes. (flange dimensions shown below)

 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Drilled for 5 on 4-1/2" & 5 on 4-3/4" Bolt Pattern
(Other Patterns Available Upon Request)

Maybe they can drill the correct pattern.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
Drilled for 5 on 4-1/2" & 5 on 4-3/4" Bolt Pattern
(Other Patterns Available Upon Request)

Maybe they can drill the correct pattern.
I have a complete '96 Explorer 8.8"rear end and just a set of Explorer rear disc assemblies too.

I don't think there's enough meat on the Explorer disc brake cast bracket flanges to spread the hole pattern out.

It would probably be better to buy the new style/Torino large bearing housing end flanges, cut your old flanges off and weld the new flanges to the housing.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:23 PM
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....also, I forgot about the lug pattern. The Explorer has a 5-on-4.5" lug pattern.

The area inside the back of the Explorer rotor 'hat' --where the rotor slides over the axle's wheel flange, isn't big enough to fit over an axle flange with a 5-on-5.5" lug pattern.

This means you cannot simply change the flanges at the ends of the axle housing without changing the axles out to a smaller lug pattern too.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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I'm thinkin' TSM's system is an overall better deal given that it's 5x5.5.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Looked too simple, thanks for the info!
I liked the "drum" parking brake set up.
Not a fan of the caliper parking brake set up.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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I don't know that there's enough weight in the rear of a 1/2 ton to warrant the need for rear discs. You can already lock up a drum brake set-up.
(just my two cents...)
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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I found these Explorer rear disc brakes at Curries. I'm not certain if the rotors are specially made items to work with this (?). It states aftermarket axles are also required.

At any rate with this, it goes back to what I said earlier that the axle housing tube end flanges would have to be changed out for the later large bearing Torino-style 9-inch rear end flanges.

Currie Enterprises Racing Rear End Categories
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by instig8r63
I don't know that there's enough weight in the rear of a 1/2 ton to warrant the need for rear discs. You can already lock up a drum brake set-up.
(just my two cents...)
It would actually, probably, be better to have discs in the rear than drums. Drums are self-energizing. Discs are not. Discs are less likely to lock up. At 600 PSI, a drum brake would be locked up. At the same pressure level, a disc would only be half on.

Locking the brakes isn't a good thing to do. Maximum vehicle deceleration and the highest coefficient of friction between the tires and the pavement comes just before wheel lockup. Once the wheels lock and the tires start to slide, speed reduces at a slower rate and the possibility for skidding out of control becomes much greater.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
It would actually, probably, be better to have discs in the rear than drums. Drums are self-energizing. Discs are not. Discs are less likely to lock up. At 600 PSI, a drum brake would be locked up. At the same pressure level, a disc would only be half on.

Locking the brakes isn't a good thing to do. Maximum vehicle deceleration and the highest coefficient of friction between the tires and the pavement comes just before wheel lockup. Once the wheels lock and the tires start to slide, speed reduces at a slower rate and the possibility for skidding out of control becomes much greater.
Yeah, I get that. What I meant was these trucks are already light in the rear. The majority of stopping power is in the front brakes. Under hard braking, the rear suspension is unloaded, reducing rear tire to road friction.
IMO, there is no advantage to non-ABS rear disc brakes on a pick up.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by instig8r63
Yeah, I get that. What I meant was these trucks are already light in the rear. The majority of stopping power is in the front brakes. Under hard braking, the rear suspension is unloaded, reducing rear tire to road friction.
IMO, there is no advantage to non-ABS rear disc brakes on a pick up.
I'm just a 4-wheel discs kinda guy. I got the 4-wheel disc MC (for a '95 Ford Explorer) I recently installed on my truck with the intent to eventually put rear discs on my '69 F-100 short bed. --the Bendix dual-diaphragm booster I have should work really well with all-wheel discs.

 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
I'm just a 4-wheel discs kinda guy. I got the 4-wheel disc MC (for a '95 Ford Explorer) I recently installed on my truck with the intent to eventually put rear discs on my '69 F-100 short bed. --the Bendix dual-diaphragm booster I have should work really well with all-wheel discs.

Great looking set up. I might get to test out my hard line skills this weekend (Or I should say, develop my hard line skills.)
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by instig8r63
Great looking set up. I might get to test out my hard line skills this weekend (Or I should say, develop my hard line skills.)
Thanks. The good thing about making your own lines is brake tubing is cheap. I do make mistakes from time to time and have to remake a line.

If you have an uh-oh, it's no big deal. Just start over and make another line.

It had been a couple of years since the last time I had fabricated any brake lines but, fortunately (so far), I haven't had to make any do-overs on this project.
 
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