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Vacuum/emissions removal...

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Old Oct 31, 2014 | 07:42 PM
  #1  
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Vacuum/emissions removal...

Hey guys, I have a 79 F250 Ranger (Camper Special), 400ci, 6.6....
The truck is a yard plow truck only, Old, Rusty, Rotted, but runs like a beast, and will never be registered. There are 3 evap (vacuum) lines going into the emission charcoal canister on the frame, and the canister(s) are completely rusted away and the lines are just out in the open, and apparently have been for a long time. One line came out of the front top of the carb 2150, and the other ones were teed into other lines, that were teed into other lines....
The air filter housing doesn't have any lines connected to the many nipples for vacuum lines...So I need to know what hoses/lines/emissions I can remove without affecting performance...I would love to clean out the dead weight.
I want only the essentials..nothing more.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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redroad
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To eliminate the evap system you need to block the line/lines at the tank/tanks and add a vented gas cap/caps .. The only vacuum lines you need are to the vacuum advance on the dizzy, the power brake booster, the line from the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system, and possibly the line to the vacuum modulator on the auto trans if that's what your running ..
To eliminate the egr plate and valve you will need to get a adapter/spacer to go between the carb and intake which blocks off the egr hole .. TransDapt makes one .. The dizzy should also be recurved after doing this ..
If your motor has an air pump then all plumbing to the exhaust system/manifolds will have to be blocked if you eliminate it ..
 
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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79250ranger
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OK...so besides the egr plate and valve, Where should the vacuum lines from the vacuum advance on the dizzy, the power brake booster, the line from the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system, and the line to the vacuum modulator on the auto trans connect to?? (carburator, ported switches..etc..)I have tried to find a schematic out there, but can't find it. There are 2 ported vacuum switches where most of the connected/teed lines end up in..one has 2 nipples and the other has 4.
I will try to send a pic by tomorrow...raining like crazy today...
Also, I'm not too familiar with air pumps..what exactly is that for if I have one? and if so, is it related to performance, or can it be eliminated?
And what nipples on the Carb can I cap? its a motorcraft 2150 2bl.
Sorry for all the questions..I never familiarized myself with vacuum lines, emissions, etc...I'm no mechanic, but can usually fix anything and learn along the way
 
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 11:59 PM
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From: Meridian, Idaho
need to do the same, remove emissions

Hi,

Yup, I need to do the same thing on my 78 F250 (351m). In Idaho, vehicles prior to 1980 are 'not required' to pass emissions testing. So I've began pulling all that stuff off.
Truck's been in the garage this past year getting some major work done to it. I pulled the Carb and intake manifold off, hot tanked the manifold, and rebuilt the carb. Now putting it all back together. Looking to block off the EGR with just a spacer plate. Then I guess I need to re-curve the distributor (not sure how thats done, so need to look that up). Some said to advance the timing from 6-8 deg to 10-12?
I'm keeping stock carb (2150) so no changes there.

thanks for the replies (in advance).

Bill
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 12:58 PM
  #5  
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84espy
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One item that helped me was the Holley carb site. When I looked at their product manuals, it stated which ports to use for vacuum.
I, too, had a lot of unecessary or missing hoses. Because my carb finally bit the dust, I went to the Holley. I eliminated all vacuum trees, and so my vacuum lines are minimal, now.
 
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