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Wiring delimna

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Old Oct 31, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Wiring delimna

I had installed a cigarette lighter in my 73 E100 earlier this month, it gave me problems, so I replaced it, even tho the van didn't come with one, it was wired for it, so I found and used the socket for it, for reference, it shares a fuse with the interior light. When I replaced it, and tested out the new one, pushed in the lighter, didn't wait for it to pop out, I just pulled it out to test for heat, felt warm so I shoved it back to finish, blew the fuse, I turned on the interior light so I could see, found it was out too. I had the parts store guy replace my fuse, even did another, can't read what they go to, no diagram with me, no help, when I got home, messing around with the volt-meter showed both bottom fuses had no power, and I noticed, the hazard lights were out, along with my brake lights. After checking all wires under the dash, sockets there, along with under the hood, removal of the light switch, and ignition socket to check for burned wires, I decided to remove the fuse box from the doghouse to see behind it, I found a large black wire attached to nothing, and closer inspection revealed that the bottom fuses, they have a block between them for a power source, it had snapped off up close to it, so clean you couldn't tell there ever was one. I had run an 8 gauge power wire from the battery to a fuse block that I put on the wall beside the emergency brake, was for my addition of accessories, so to repair this problem it was clear, since the wire couldn't be soldered back to the fuse block, the wires had to be relocated to a new fused power source, there went 2 accessory locations, but it was the only way to do it right.
This is what I found, the black wire on my finger was the problem.


A volt-meter is a necessary tool for all mechanics, and if you plan to install accessories in any vehicle, buy a fuse block, they usually have 6 blade, fused power outlets, insurance that you won't burn your van up. For older vehicles, install a power port for charging cellphones or other gear and NEVER use the cigarette lighter socket for a power inverter, they have a 16/18 gauge wire powering them, something I'd not put larger that a 15 amp fuse on, you stand a good chance burning it up.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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The cut red wire by my finger, that is the brake/hazard light power wire, I relocated it before taking the photo, I did this by my friends who also own these vans, I've never heard of a problem like mine, was likely a fluke due to a poor crimp.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 06:41 AM
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On the later E-Series there are two power ports just right of the speedo cluster; one a lighter and the other dedicated to cell phone chargers ect. As you mention neither or them will handle more more than 15 amps but I'd say even that would put stress on the wiring and entire circuits.

Those are fused separately although the ligher shares its fuse with the DLC or OBD-II connector. Too often failed wiring will cause the DLC to not show any vehicle info which has led a few to thinking the ECM was fried somehow.

I've found auxiliary fuse blocks from Blue Seas marine products--one or two models have connections for power AND ground too---very handy when adding that extra fuse block. Have a look: https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover That's just one of their offerings, have bought mine through Amazon.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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Thanks, JWA

Originally Posted by JWA
I've found auxiliary fuse blocks from Blue Seas marine products--one or two models have connections for power AND ground too---very handy when adding that extra fuse block. Have a look: https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover That's just one of their offerings, have bought mine through Amazon.


Just what i was looking for my 1951 F1. Thanks again,...jack
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 12:58 AM
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I bought mine from Autozone, Bussman that uses the standard blade fuses, I have a circuit breaker under the hood on the 8 gauge power feed, just decided to use what had been installed by the previous owner. I'll be installing another in the overhead console, when I get it built and ready to go, I am all for insuring that everything is protected. I keep seeing those 110 power inverters that plug in a cigarette lighter, who are they kidding into thinking this is safe?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jack orchard
Just what i was looking for my 1951 F1. Thanks again,...jack
Glad that was helpful Jack!

I like the Blue Sea stuff myself---very robust and because its somewhat marine-rated it fits almost seamlessly into automotive uses just as well.

Here's another Blue Sea offering I bought but have yet to use---very affordable but so well made it's almost unbelievable:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-DualBus-4-Inch/dp/B000K2MABA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414932718&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+2722 http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-DualBus-4-Inch/dp/B000K2MABA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414932718&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+2722

Bussman also has more than a few great wiring devices too. In fact they (and Blue Sea too) still carry the glass fuses and panels for those with that vintage car/truck.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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I kind of like the glass fuses, but use the blade ones when adding accessories , I have short glass fuses not just in the factory fuse panel, but the white containers that hold a single fuse for accessories, have 2 under the dash that house the short fuses.
 
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