I replaced the I beam bushings the other day and I cannot believe the difference in how the truck tracks, handles, and drives. This was on my 93 f150 4x4. They were the last items on the front suspension I replaced, the least expensive, and the most beneficial for this truck. I used a ball joint press with the axles left in the truck and it wasn't a bad job. Damn near like a new truck!

 

You and me both! When I tore mine apart, one of the bushings was so far gone that the metal sleeve in the center had worn thru the steel outer casing and was actually wearing down a spot in the axle housing itself! I sparked up my trusty Lincoln and built the damaged area back up, hit it with the Dremel to bring it back into a circle shape, then pressed in new bushings. Went for a ride and was amazed at how much better she handled! Felt like driving a brand new truck!

 

Between those, the radius arm bushings, springs & shocks, and a steering stabilizer my truck rides better with 220k than when I bought it 10 years ago with 79k miles. Definitely worth doing!

 

That's a fact. I just didn't think those bushings could make such a difference. I finished the rebuild with front axle u joints, ball joints, radius arm bushings, shocks, and tie rods but the largest improvement came from the I beam pivot bushings.

 

So is it possible to do these while everything is still under the truck on a 4wd?

I would like to do both the pivot and radius arm bushings after i tend to replacing a loose crossmember rivet.

I understand the bushings need to be pressed out/in?

 

The factory bushings are flared on the end to keep them in place. Smash/cut/grind off that flared portion and you can either press them out with a ball joint press or smash them out with a BFH and a long bar, but using the press is easier when putting new ones in. I tack welded the new ones in place instead of flaring the ends out.

As for doing it under the truck... I gave up and pulled mine out because it wasn't worth the frustration of doing it under the truck. I mean it ain't no thing to pull the shock and spring bolts and yank the calipers. Everything else was disconnected anyway.

 

I've done it both ways, and will always pull the whole axle in the future. A ball joint press (giant c clamp with a variety of cups) works well.

 

guys forgive me if im asking a dumb question , but i have a 95 250 with the ifs up front. is this what the OP and the above coments are about. if so can yall recomed the best bushings, or a full rebuild kit? shes like driving a school bus right now and bad when i hit a bump.

 

Yep that's it. If you have a 2wd truck then your front end is known as a TIB (Twin I-Beam) and if you're 4wd then you have a TTB (Twin Traction Beam) setup. Each axle half (beam) pivots on a bushing, which is what the discussion here is about.

Best bushings would be poly ones instead of rubber, but I'm not sure what's available. I just bought the best ones AutoZone had (I know... ) and put them in, they're just plain rubber or whatever.

A full rebuild would just be replacing the pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, coil spring isolators, shock absorber bushings, sway bar bushings, etc. Basically anything rubber. Not sure if all the parts are available in a kit or not, but you might have a look over at Jeff's Bronco Graveyard and see if he sells anything like that as a kit.

 

thanks DIXIE460.Im going to look and see now. ill post alink if theres anything worth it.