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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 11:39 PM
  #1  
rsmack's Avatar
rsmack
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From: Detroit
Rebuild $$ Question

I am rebuilding my sons 351w EFI engine for his 91 F-150. I don't want to do anything special for it it is just a work truck. I expect to turn the crank, new connecting rod bearings, rings, head redone (professionally) and all new normal rebuild seals and gaskets. What can I expect to pay for all this (ballpark figure) if I do the work myself. Am I missing a important rebuild step. The engine has 167K on it but I don't need it to last forever either just another 75-100k
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 02:23 AM
  #2  
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Aekisu
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Rebuild $$ Question

With 167K I would bet you should also figure in the cost of new pistons. In my 86 351w with 110K, I had to go 30 over just to clean up the bore. Once you have gone that far, you might as well have the rods reconditioned and new cam bearing put in.

Sorry, really can help you with a price. About 5 years ago, I spent $1200 for the machining work, a Crane cam, high volume oil pump, & roller timing chain. That also included new pistons, rings, several new valves, bearings, and what have ya.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 03:10 AM
  #3  
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Matts72
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From: Montana Territory
Rebuild $$ Question

You can buy a long block rebuilt motor for around $800 - $1200. They at least have a warranty and they are just basic motors, nothing spectacular.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 10:37 AM
  #4  
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Henry_the_Ford
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From: Florida Panhandle
Rebuild $$ Question

I've been pricing to rebuild my 302 and its coming out better to buy a long block and be done with it.


CARQUEST has one local for $1200
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 10:53 AM
  #5  
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TorqueKing
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From: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Rebuild $$ Question

just be very careful with your money, you will get what you paid for. Carquest is a very reputable dealer, but make sure that they're not using Recon engines, those are terrible. I had one go 18,000 miles then blow a head gasket, then started knocking at 21,000 miles. I finally ended its misery at 23,000 miles to find mixed and matched parts: 1980 block with pre-'78 crank, with mixed and matched rods and slugs. 5/8 rod bearings were worn to copper, and 1/5 main bearings were toasted. I know they're not all that bad, but just make sure that whoever put it together did the right machine work. TK
 
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Old Jul 21, 2003 | 05:02 PM
  #6  
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ducaT
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Rebuild $$ Question

Machine shop work varies from region to region. I know that here in CA, where there are a ton of them, prices are a lot cheaper than when I was in NC.

With that caveat out of the way..... I'm lookking at doing almost the exact same thing. To me it's worth the extra $$ to have the shop assemble the whole short block. That will run me about $900.

If you want them to do just the machining on the block it should be about 400-500 bucks. To me, an extra 400 bucks so I can just pop on the heads and slide it in is worth it.

Of course, parts are totally extra......

Yes, I know this is my first post....what can I say, I'm a lurker....
 
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Old Jul 21, 2003 | 06:37 PM
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Matts72
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From: Montana Territory
Rebuild $$ Question

Welcome to FTE then.
This guy never did answer us. hmmmm another one.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2003 | 11:31 AM
  #8  
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ducaT
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Rebuild $$ Question

Pretty common on these boards. It happens at ls1.com and some of the f-body pages I watch.

Oh well.....
 
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