Has anyone out there come up with a decent hood lock, that is not way obvious? I would love to find one, or make/copy one..

Thanks

Baja

 

I have toyed with the idea of using a modern in cab pull connected to the original latch, but so far security here is good enough not to pursue.


John

 

Thanks John...
You already know, that my old rig is down in Baja Mx. and the more I "Pimp" my ride, the more eyes it catches. I have a jell cell battery, and they are like gold in Mx... seems that everyone wants to look under my hood, to see the motor after they hear it, and I have noticed a lot of eyes on my battery... just saying...?? I like my battery too...

I did put in a hidden toggle switch, which cuts off the tricklicity to the distributor. Hot wire all you want, and it will crank til the battery dies... and not start.. but a hood lock would be nice..

I did drill a 1/4 hole through the latch & the release, but so far, have not found a pad lock with a 2" throat. Still looking for a better idea??

Baja

 

I have no pictures but this is what my friend did to his '55 Chev Bel Air and there's no reason why it wouldn't work on a bumpside. I was going to do it to mine but never got around to it.

On the top of the rad support, where the hood latches, is a flat spot. Drill a slot in it. On the hood, find a way to weld up a pin situated somewhere that when the hood is closed the pin sits through the slot on the rad support. This pin will have a hole in it and through that hole will be a grenade pin, accessible through the grille. Without pulling the pin, the hood will not lift up no matter what you do. Attach a lock if you please.

 

Or you can go to the yard and grab a modern hood release off of an E, F or Bronco. It would be nice to have a pin that prevents the latch from moving instead of just a pin in tab arrangement. This could help remedy the hood fly up problems these trucks sometimes suffer.

 

This happens from a lack of inspection on the latch after it slowly being bent over time from people slamming the hood shut. It happened to me because I didn't know my latch safety was bad. It could happen to anyone. But if you're going to go through so much trouble to stop a hood flying up, you should know what to look for in a bad latch.

 

Stealth hood pins.
I used these on my mustang:

 

The pins on the left in the top picture go in the hole in the latch and lock down the hood.
I used these to keep my hood from blowing off when I ran the TX mile. I also opted for these as they are under the hood hidden and work as advertised.

I'll probably adapt these to use on my own 69 F100.

Here's an install with better pictures:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...tallation.html

I'll probably use a pull from a mustang and tie it to these latches and fab up my own brackets to mount the whole thing.
It's a passing thought in my mind and I feel it'll work it just needs to be done.

 

@BrockGrimes
You have a link or exact name of what they are called? I have been looking for a similar solution for my 67 F100. Previous owner of my truck had the battery stolen while it was parked in front of his house on more than one occasion.

I too was looking into some sort of pad lock idea, but haven't gone through with anything yet.

 

The mfg Western Motorsports Stealth Hood Pins 2005-2009 Mustang
But you can find them from many mustang parts sellers.

I've also considered a latch off an old "original" beetle.
Since it's just a pin on the hood and the latch on the body.
But I feel the stealth hood pins are probably the easiest solution.

Here's the VW latch receiver for those interested in options:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/VW/produ...eceiver_336016

The VW latch a 1968 I believe:



Mounted in the vehicle:

 

Thanks amigos, this question has obviously been on the minds of many 'Classic' truck owners. I like the idea of the remote hood release, like the newer trucks.. While not absolutely positive control, it should discourage the casual thief.. however, if they really want in, they will get in... after all, they got into the pyramids, didn't they..

Baja

 

Since yours is a 4wd you have the front frame cross member as me.
I had drilled a 1/2" hole in the lower cross member centered and about 1/2" from the inner edge. This hole is where my padlock fits through one part on my padlock.
Okay I started with 3 ft of cable now, I've used some of the plastic coated aircraft cable, I think, I used the 1/8". I then had the store where, I got the cable crimp it for me making a small one loop on the one end the cable.
The fixed loop will be used on the lower padlock with the padlock looping through the frame hole and the cable loop end.


Now attach to the upper side latch bolt, you may need a lager washer to hold the cable in place. You'll have make adjustments to the length of the cable so the hood can't be lifted say more then say 1" or so.

Then once your have the right length bend the cable around the bolt and tighten and trim some of the extra off that's in the way.

The cable has to be feed through the side of your hood latch so it's not in the way when closing the hood.

Since my is a 71 with a open type grille, I fad the cable right behind the center grille support bracket out of sight form thievery eyes.
I also painted the cable black to blend in with radiator ..

Now this will only keep Honest people Honest from taking it.

As a real thief that wants into your hood can get in Right!

So I added a door & hood alarm system plus a battery shut off.

So my alarm system runs from the extra back up deep cycle battery that,
I had setup for the a cab over camper, That, I once had. But have been running dual batteries since the 70's when working an living in the desert 12 yrs.
But once living in the Desert teaches you many things for survival..
Orich

 

I knew that there were some 'muy invento' guys with old trucks.. JoWilker started it off with probably the most 'Up Town' approach, but all the ideas will work. My own simple solution, was to drill a 1/4" hole through the hood latch bracket, and then on through the safety catch / release hook.. I am now looking for a small padlock, that has a 1/4" dia. hasp, and a 2" throat opening.
The '67 grill does not allow for a hand to reach in, like some of the 71 &72's, due to the narrow openings between the slats... so... either I find a 2" wide hasp lock, add a chain or cable, or go with the remote hood opening cable... I am leaning towards the 'high tech' remote opening cable... and I just happen to have an extra spot in my new F600 instrument cable... yeah, I finally found one that I could afford... no tach or vacuum gauge yet though...

Baja

 

OK, after reading all the support comments, and paroozing the internet, ebay, craigslist, I found a very simple, and perhaps, the easiest solution. No high tech, strictly shade tree... Remember, I mentioned that I had drilled a 1/4" hole through the lower hood bracket, and the safety release hook. With a 1/4" bolt through it, no way can it be moved... but anybody can open a bolt.. so I did manage to find (for $9.99) a new, old style Master #101 padlock, with a 2.125" opening between the hasp sides... it is also 2.25" high.. so, it will allow me, to close the hood, put the padlock in, under and in between, the hood & front steel for the radiator.. ( lower part of the hood latch is bolted to this piece),. The gap below the hood is about 2" mas o menos.. The padlock should easily fit in there, and be able to be closed with one hand..

I still like John's idea of using a hood release latch and cable system.. which some of the '73's had... I will find and post a photo of one...

baja

 

OK, I am not an expert in this, but this is a '73 F250 hood release... which uses a cable... perhaps this is what we all need in our 67/72 trucks... ??