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Although ill prob manufacture my own there are some good reference pics here.

 

I used the Draw-Tite 65049 (listed above) on my '09 and it is also listed for my '15. It appears that the only difference between the two trucks is where the receiver tube "pokes" through the air dam.
Like the others, I wish it was higher but I don't see any issues.

 

I am checking on the feasibility of getting the hitch fabricated. I got a source that may be able to help with it. We're tossing ideas around right now. Looking at smoky_diesel's mount is a good guide but we're thinking of beefing all the steel up more - such as a larger cross tube, 5/16-3/8" plate, and thicker walls on tubes.

 

Good idea. There is a lot of force at play if you are recovering a stuck vehicle, particularly something as heavy as our trucks. Having the winch bar rip off and cause safety issues would be a major concern.

 

I would also recommend that if you are planning on pulling any loads of real weight or resistance to do your homework and learn how to do so. It is sometimes not as easy as you think it would be to achieve maximum power/torque from your winch.

 

I understand the electrical side of it - voltage drop from cable length, current through, and wire gage. Im also aware of the spool layers vs. load capacity. The first and second spool layers are where the power is, as more layers are there the power drops. I have blocks too if I need them - both for line redirection and doubling back for slower line speed/more pulling power/lower current draw.

The purpose for the winch is a recovery device if I need it. Im not going to do something really dumb and bury the truck by flying in to a snow bank at 30mph. If I am riding on top of the snow and my tires dig holes laying the frame down I have a way out - aside from shovels. Ive done that on 2 occasions - one my truck and one someone else's. Or if I get stuck in ruts or slide in a ditch - theres a way out.

I also have some utility purposes for it, off the truck - quite light duty compared to the capacity, but it will surely make for lots easier work at times.

 

Sounds to me like you know your stuff when it comes to use of a winch, I sure wish everyone who owns one had half of your knowledge.

 

Now I have some stuff to work with for sizing up a cradle. I'll post up some drawings as I get to them.

 

I measured the space in the bumper this evening. It looks like I could squeeze in a 4" square cross bar.

I didn't realize it, but the bumper mounts are directly welded to the top of the tow hooks, then the bolts attaching it all are threaded in to the tow hooks (from the bottom up). There is about 3/16" of thread above the bumper mount so there is plenty of thread engagement.

Looking through the installation manual for the winch Superwinch says the hardware supplied is "sized for a 5/16" plate. Thicker mounting plates can be used with min .700" thread engagement" -for the large frame Talons 14k/18k (1/4" minimum for the small frame Talons 9.5k to 12.5k).

As far as strength goes in the steel - a 2" OD square tube with a 3/16" wall (drawbar that goes inside the hitch receiver) of mild structural steel (A36) would have more than enough strength to hold 36k (2x the winch capacity) under tension. I'll have to work up the numbers on hitch pins and the perpendicular loading of the cross bar. Using a high strength bolt (grade 8 or ISO 10.9, or higher) is an option for a pin, however the limiting factor is the bearing capacity of the holes in the receiver and the drawbar at that point.

The large frame Talon's have 8 mounting bolts so that is overkill.

 

Just a quick question, first though, I would like to say that I had your opinion on a winch mount like you are looking at at first, but didn't like the clearance issue as mine is a dually and already low. So my question, have you thought about a grille guard winch combo for yours? I have given up on a mount similar to what you are looking for and probably going with one of these. It is a Westin HDX and relatively new. They can take up to a 16k inline pull. They are a bit pricey but cheaper on Amazon and they also come in stainless.

 

That is a good idea, if you are content with keeping the winch in one spot. In my case, the winch needs to be able to go on the front and rear of the truck, and I also have several uses for it that are off the truck = if I make a receiver mount for those scenarios it can be used portable also (like pulling trees away from the cabins so when I cut them they go backwards and not right thru the roof ). The only time I'll even carry the winch with me in the truck is in the winter or if I happen to go on a trip in the warmer months where it may come in handy. Aside from that, it will see very little use in storage.

 

The stock hitch (rear 2.5", class V) has a wall thickness of 7/32" and about a 3" outside diameter. I'll use thicker metal on the front hitch - 5/16" would be 3/32 more wall.

I got some preliminary drawings made up. I am still working on the design of the sides and the hose crossings. I don't want to interfere with the hoses, at the same time I would like to leave the cross bar in tact. I am thinking a 3-1/2" cross bar and the radiator hose on the passenger side would have to cross right half way through the cross bar if it goes straight across.

One of my assemblies in past years (see below), a large antenna mount, was fillet open, nuts were welded inside the fillet, and then the whole assembly was welded back together. Thinking about how I did that - one idea for the hoses is to notch and box the crossbar like smoky_diesel did, then bolt a on back plate to close up the gap/reinforce the back side. The large radiator hose would potentially pass right in the middle of the cross bar so that is the biggest obstacle.







So maybe where (at least the large) hose crossing is, maybe notch the cross bar and do a couple nuts on each side of the notch (smaller ones - these were 10-13mm I think, 10.9's). Then bolt a cap over top to bridge the channel. Boxing will help, but if it is half way through the cross bar I'd think there would have to be something behind the gap to add some of the strength back in.

 

I'm really looking forward to seeing this! I'm thinking of going along a similar path to you (front receiver winch mount)

 

Me too. Though, I am going to go easy on the fabricator - its not a high priority but Id like to have things made up by Thanksgiving.

 

It has been a while since the thread has been active. I figured I'd update it real quick. I was working on the drawings on paper with a pencil - old school drafting. Considering the project and the changes that are going to be necessary I figured I'd work on some CAD instead.

Here is a start to the main unit. There are a lot of features left out, it is slowly coming together.



The idea I am going after right now is to model everything in an "ideal" state. Once that is done then I can start the modifications - specifically where the radiator hose crosses. There are about 4 methods that we have ideas for right now so this will help us visualize the whole assembly and compare.

The software is a program called TurboCAD. I got the Deluxe 21. I used to use AutoCAD and Inventor a lot (8 years through high school and college combined). TurboCAD is very similar, but how things are done is a bit different. Lots of "translation" for me, but also brushing the dust off. I'm sure if I jumped on AutoCAD today I would stumble some too.