I don't have any real experience with your year and engine but this now definitely sounds like a fuel supply or pressure issue. I'd have that checked with a mechanical gauge, don't rely on the OBD-I system to catch something amiss there.

 

Gone for a few days.......

So, your getting some wheres with this.......

Glad to hear that the 'smoke test' got done correct this time, and found a vacuum leak at the EGR.

I don't think your having problem with the fuel pump, as you say, when you come to a complete stop, in gear, it surges or lugs forward.

So, with that thinking.......and on a '93, all sensors lead back to the ECM,
VSS, IAC, TPS, MAP, TEMP sensor.......All compute back to the ECM.
Also, the ECM controls the shifting points of the E4OD.

Did you replace/check the IAC??

I re-read what was posted, but didn't catch that.

With the "surge" it could be acting like it's going to stall, and catches itself, by adding fuel, thus the surge you feel.

Also, test/check the MAP, located on top of the heater/Evaporator Core box, I just solved a major problem with my '92 by swapping that out with a good used one. The Test would be in that Link I posted for you.

 

Well I called the mechanic back and told him there is no change after repairing the three vacumm leaks. The first thing he said is its probably The Idle Air control valve, Oddly ive never heard of this so I looked it up and they run between $40 and $75 and looks to be very easy to remove and install, also read that they can be cleaned as long as the spring inside is good. I am going to see how much he will charge me to do it, if its too much I will do it myself next week.
I havent done anything with the ECU or checked the fuel pressure because as I stated before, its my only mode to work for now.

Thanks.

 

The hardest part about changing the IAC (for me) is getting the electrical connector un-plugged and plugged back in

2 - 3/8" headed screws hold it in place.

They run about $65, and with mine, I couldn't get the drive piston to move with cleaning, so I just opp'ed out for a new one.

Oh, and pull it loose first, then disconnect the connector, and plug it back in before you re-mount it

And, don't forget to get a new gasket for it too.

This could solve your "almost stalling" problem because the throttle plates close complete when you take your foot off the gas, and the IAC opens and allows some air intake into the manifold.

 

Well I got bad news

The mechanic went to set the timeing before installing the IAC and it was at 2, dont know if thats BTDC or whatever. He said its supposed to be 10. He tried to move the distributor and it is frozen. (He thinks the timing chain is stretched)
We soaked around the distributor with WD40 but no luck moving it. He put everything back together and I am going to keep spraying it with some other stuff I have called pipe break every night for the next few days to see what happens.
One quick question, Is there any situation that would keep the distributor from moving other than the shaft being frozen ?
Thanks.

 

What??? You found another problem???

I thought we got this van running in the first 4 pages...........

Timing should be set with the spout out, at 10* BTDC (before top dead center)

You can check the timing chain without taking anything apart, turn the crank to the 10* mark, dizzy cover off, and turn the crank counter clockwise slightly if the rotor does not move, there is slack in the chain. If the rotor moves, clockwise, then the chain is good, remember, the rotor turns counter clockwise on these beasts. And the crank turns clockwise.

Anything, besides WD40 will work, unless you want to repel water, That''s what the WD40 stands for (W-ater D-isplacement) took the guy 39 tries before he got it right.
Me, PB Blaster is my choice, or a torch set

I had a stuck dizzy on a road trip brake down, the shop mechanic could not get the dizzy loose, dang alum and cast don't like each other.
He took a break, and I asked him if I could try, sure, try it.....
So, I went in back (cube van) cut a chunk of wood that would fit between the base of the distubtor, and the block, used a short pry bar, and it popped right up
He couldn't believe it, was pulling on it for 1/2 hour, took me less than 5 minutes.
He ended up taking an hour off the billing because of this.
My gain

Reason for my story...........think about it........

If you soak some PB around the base, for a couple days, that should brake the bond, when you spray it on, and it turns orange'ish, then it's working it's magic. Pair of channel locks on the base stem working back and forth will help loosen the bond also.

Now, stop wrenching on this van, and get some millage on it before you brake something else.

 

If it runs, iron expands when hot, you can run the engine, to get it heated, spray in PB Blaster, then shut it down and try to get it free, be careful not to get burnt.

 

Tonight I went ahead and sprayed around the dizzy with PB blaster and let it soak for about 10 minutes then tried to crank on it with no luck, sprayed some more and waited and still nothing it is stuck solid
Yes the engine was hot. I tried pounding on it with a mallet and piece of wood and tried to twist it with a large wrench at the base of the dizzy but nothing.
I was afraid of snapping it off so I stopped.
I am going to keep flooding it with PB blaster every night or so and see what happens.
Any other tips as to how to get it free?

Thanks.

 

Get a heat gun or a small propane torch and heat the body of the distributor. Then apply torque, gently in small increments.

 

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz double post

 

Isnt the engine hot enough?

 

If I try to pry it directly upward will I be able to get it back in?

I am afraid of popping it up and not being able to get the gears to mesh..

Thanks.

 

The distributor installs in a 'drop down' manner.
It's removed in a straight upward motion.

Before you go any further, find the #1 position (spark plug wire)
Mark the inside of the dizzy at the #1 position, it's really close to one of the 2 cap mounting screws inside.
I have a old dizzy cap with the side cut out, for marking this position, works great for when installing a new distributor.

Turn the crank, bump the starter to get the rotor at the Mark, #1 position.
This is the leading, metal edge.
Mark the base of the dizzy shaft at the mount.

This will set you up for re-installing the distributor back at the #1 spark plug if in fact, you do pull it up too far and un-mesh the gears.

If you do un-mesh the gears, all is not lost, and you can re-set the distributor with the marks you made, just remember that the rotor turns counter clockwise and you need to start with the rotor about 30* pass the #1 mark, and as is meshes into the cam gear, it will stop at the #1 mark, and just turn the base to line up the mark. Then the timing light will set you at 10* BTDC with the spout removed.

There are also many detailed write ups on this forum about this, "search for 351W distributor"

Read This link.

Pulling or prying the dizzy straight up might be the only solution you have, at least it should turn some, in which your trying to do to set the correct timing.

The base of the distributor sits into the motor about 1-1/2 inches, with an O-ring seal, if your is that "locked up" and heat does not break the bond, you might have no choice that to get the dizzy out in pieces.

New ones are less than $90, and I've replace ones that had the PIP go bad, and even one that the inter bearing went bad and the shaft wobbled all over.

 

I am afraid of using a torch because there many flammable things in the way and theres oil covering everything, besides, last time I played with the dizzy, the engine was so hot I couldnt touch it. LOL If I end up snapping off the top of the distributor and the bottom part is left in, How would I go about getting the rest of it out without doing too much damage or allowing shaving to fall down into the engine? Drill out the shaft and with a vacumn catch the filings and then chisel out the rest of the shaft? Thanks.

 

Your still on this?? been over 2 months we haven't hear anything??

At worst, after trying to pry up the distributor, you could use a long chisel at the base of the dizzy shaft, and "tapping" on the shaft with the chisel might just break the bond.

The distributor is aluminum cast, and the block is cast iron, which is much stronger, yet bridle.

If by chance, and you really don't what this, any small chips of cast aluminum do fall into the hole, blow out the shaft hole with air pressure, chips might end up in the oil pump shaft drive, or the cam gears, and chips will end up in the oil pan. There is a screen on the oil pump pick up, so no chips will make there way into the oil pump or any oil journals.
But, if you have a lot of chips, pieces fall into the oil pan, then you have no choice but to remove the oil pan, and clean it out.

You do know that the old distributor will be trash when you start hammering/chiseling on it, don't you? Have a new one on hand just in case.