Hello gents. I have a question about the best strategy for repairing the steering in my truck. After taking it in to get the VIN inspection, I realized just how bad the steering is. Over 30 it is very loose and 45 is terrifying. I dropped it off at my local shop two weeks ago and told them no rush just have a look. The good news is they said my rear brake lines etc that I did look great . But the bad news is they think the steering gear is shot. I am picking up tomorrow and he recommends I take it to a front end shop as it is beyond what he does day to day.

This truck is a bit odd as the PO swapped in a '66 Mustang 289 with all of the attachments, so C4 tranny and the mustang power assist steering. My assumption is that he installed the box from the mustang too but I don't know. If that is what he did and that is what is shot, what would you guys recommend? Does anyone know if the power assist steering from that era Mustang is akin to those on the 70s F series trucks? Wondering if I can replace the box with one from a 70s truck...not sure if this is a common way to get power steering but I cannot find anything on these boards when searching for mustang power steering.

Thanks for any ideas. When I get the truck back tomorrow I will take a pic of the box.

 

You may have an original PS unit which was a Bendix box. If that is the case I'm sure you can find a rebuilt unit if that is what it is. Could be the whole front end is worn and sloppy. You have to find out what you have in there now.

Hope the front end guy knows what he is talking about and is familiar with twin I beams.

Let us know what they say.
Good luck.

 

If you are running a small block, the P/S pump and reservoir and mounting hardware will be sourced for that size engine, but the steering gearbox will have to be compatible with your '66 truck steering system and a Mustang's P/S system from that period will not be. Usually there is a rectangular metal tag attached to the gearbox with a code on it. If it's still there, that will help determine what you have. If not, look to see if you can find Eaton or Ford/Saginaw markings on the gearbox. The better system (if already installed in your truck) is the later (came on line in '69 to replace the leak prone Eaton system) Ford/Saginaw pump. If it's not the one installed currently in your truck, it can be more of a challenge to install than the Eaton as the steering column and shaft have to be modified. Good luck!

 

I doubt the OP's 1966 F100 has swapped in Mustang Power Assist P/S.

The Mustang's draglink threads into its Power Assist P/S control valve. Its ram cylinder attaches to the draglink on one end, to a frame mounted bracket on the other end.

How the hell could this system be adopted to an F100?

Eaton P/S pump: 1953/64 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars, 1965 Mustang with a generator (before 8/23/1964).

The Eaton's P/S pump reservoir either bolts to the top of the pump, or is remotely mounted on the fender apron with A/C

1965/77 Ford P/S pumps have a steel reservoir encompassing the pump, P/S pressure hose threads onto the pump.

Optional Bendix P/S: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD & 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001.

The only Ford trucks to have Optional Power Assist P/S: 1973/75 F100 4WD - 1975 F150 4WD - 1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys).

Upper parts catalog pic: 1965/72 F100/250 2WD & 1967/72 F350 M/S gearbox.

Lower parts catalog pic: HUGE Bendix P/S gearbox.

 

Well it wouldn't be the first thing the PO lied about so I will take your word for it that it is not the mustang p/a steering. I just picked it up as snapped a couple of pics. Assuming this is the Ford box? Looks to be leaking.

 

There's a BIG difference between Bendix P/S & Ford (Saginaw) P/S. The only way your truck could have Ford (Saginaw) P/S, is if it was swapped in.

Bendix P/S: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD / 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001.

Ford (Saginaw) P/S: 1969 F100/250 2WD & F350 from serial number D96,001 / 1970/79 F100/250 2WD & F350.
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Left upper pic: Ford M/S (Manual Steering) gear box / Left lower pic: BENDIX P/S gear box.

Right pic: Ford (Saginaw) P/S gear box:

 

I don't think there is anything original in the engine bay of this truck. I think everything in there was swapped in.

I will take a few more pics of the entire set-up this evening after work. Thanks for the help ND.

 

More pics. To me it looks like based on the shape it has to be the Saginaw box but I am not an expert.







Pump





Tag but basically unreadable.

 

Since you say your engine bay bears no resemblance to OE, there are lots of possibilities. Can you tell whether your steering column is stock '66? If the PO installed power steering where there was none, he could have installed an Eaton system which is what the factory introduced on the fly during the '66 model year, and discontinued during the '69 model year because of various issues. That system was a virtual bolt-in from the non-P/S steering gearbox and did not require any modification to the steering column. If PO installed the '69 and later Ford/Saginaw system, which was never installed in '66 trucks by the factory, the steering column/rod (among other things) needs to be modified, or a later (shorter) column needs to be installed. I installed the Ford/Saginaw system in my '66 where it had been manual steering previously. The pictures you show of your P/S gearbox look somewhat similar to mine, but not exactly. My P/S gearbox is a later Ford/Saginaw unit which was remanufactured by Duralast and bought from AutoZone in late 2010 for $137. The AZ part number is 7505 and it was in stock. (The first one I got from them leaked - it's replacement has been doing fine). If you have an AZ near by, perhaps you could borrow one from them and compare the two. If you have slop in your system, don't forget to go through everything - rag joint, steering and I-beam suspension bushings, steering column bushings and bearings, etc. I replaced all of that and my truck drives like it was brand new. Good luck!

 

SuperSabre - thanks for the advice. Dumb question - how can I tell if it is the original column?

 

It has been a few months since aweig another in person but pretty sure this is not original

 

Boy, your truck really has been "customized", and of course the problems come when the customizer doesn't provide the new owner with an accurate record of what has been done. Is your automatic trans shifted on the floor or on the column? The shifter on the column is clearly later than what would have been in '66, the steering wheel is aftermarket, and there's that big collar out of which the wiring is exiting which is not '66, but down by the column clamp at the bottom of the instrument panel it looks like it could be original, so maybe it's some kind of modified original. Was the truck originally automatic or manual - according to the door warranty plate, if that's original? If it wasn't a 4 speed, then the column would have had to have been shortened to accommodate the Ford/Saginaw P/S gearbox, and maybe PO did that. Shortening the column on original automatic or "three on the tree" trucks is a major hassle (not a big problem on 4 speeds) and the usual remedy is to just take the column from the donor truck that provided the rest of the P/S conversion. Of course, PO didn't do that so you'll just have to do some detective work. I see you're down in the Carolinas. Since John (jowilker) is our resident expert on P/S conversions anyway, maybe you can get together with him and he can help you sort out the mess that PO left you. Keep after it and let us know how we can help.

 

Im not positive but from the photos and ND's parts diagram it looks to me like its a Ford Saginaw box. if the issue is the box or pump, seems to me NAPA has re-manufactured parts available online - box and pump, as always I could be wrong but I put in a 72 F250 ¾ ton into the parts search under steering on the NAPA web site and....NAPA AUTO PARTS Good advice as above to contact John (jowilker) for help. Im having a hard time seeing how it is a saginaw box for a early F250 because of the frame mountings. It like to see how it mounts to the frame and where the pitman shaft and arm are in relation to the frame. Good luck!

 

Thanks guys for the advice. As far I can tell there are no problems with the rest of the front end but I need to go through it thoroughly. The only clear thing is the box. The truck is not hard to turn, it is great at low speed just way too loose at higher speeds.

I was able to get up with the PO this morning. It is the Forrd box with a GM column. Both were in the truck when he bought it with all of the PS parts from the Ford. He put in the 289 and is thus running the Ford system with the 289 pump, which is what you said in the beginning SuperSabre re: where the parts came from.

OK. That established, should I stick with the GM column?? Better to source a Ford column that would have come with the Saginaw box? For the box itself, get a rebuild from NAPA or splurge on a Red Head which I have heard great things about.

 

If the ONLY problem you have is the P/S gearbox, then why not disconnect it, remove it, and take it to NAPA or AutoZone or some other supplier and see if in fact it is a Ford/Saginaw unit and replace it. A PO seemingly has done the work necessary to make the system function, so it all boils down to what you want your truck to look like. Having a GM column adds the complexity of (probably) having a GM turn signal switch and horn wiring with different wiring and connectors to deal with, along with who knows what else he may have done. If it all works, and you're happy with it, then perhaps the best thing is to leave it alone. If it doesn't work, or you don't like the way it looks and want to go back to Ford components, then you may have a lot of work there. I don't think you need to go to the expense of having your present box rebuilt by Redhead if it's a Ford/Saginaw unit. Just pick up a reman unit. If you have the Eaton P/S box, then yes you would want to send it to Redhead as those are rare and prone to leaks if not rebuilt correctly. Don't forget to keep the P/S specific Pitman arm off the bottom of the old gearbox (assuming it's the correct one) and install it on the new box. You'll probably want a new rag joint too, unless the one you have looks pretty new. Good luck!