If you poured in Two bottles of Techron, you've over treated, by how much depends on what size the bottles were, 12oz or 20oz, as the treat rate is 1 oz/gallon

 

so picky i got 2 12 oz bottles and didnt use the whole second bottle.

so i started off to work this morning and everything was fine...until half way there it started acting up again. coming home it was horrendous. barely go 40, sputter, sputter, then hold on there she goes, then sputter. it was terrible. so when i got home i pulled the intake off. I decided that with the symptoms i'm having now, it has to be the injectors, not much left.

 

OK, well if you didn't use All of the second bottle, maybe you didn't over treat too badly. Run most of the treated tank out & see how it goes. If things get better, consider opting for the fuel rail ingested product & use it as directed & see if it'll finish the job. You can probably find a parts store online discount code for it that'll help ease sticker shock some. If no joy there, consider taking them in for a professional service, as the results in better mpg can help pay for the service cost. Let us know how it goes.

 

I pulled the intake off and i am replacing the injectors. I got them out last night and cleaned the old gasket off. I'm not so sure the gasket wasnt leaking, so i may be getting 2 problems taken care of here. So i should be getting the injectors today, advance auto had a 15% off of online orders for bwd injectors. The only thing now is i cant find a 93 4.0 intake torque pattern. my haynes manual says the torque for the studs, then the nuts, but nothing about what order to bolt these in. Anybody know what order these should be torqued down in?

 

You can do better than 15% off by using one of these codes here. Advance Auto Parts Coupon: 30% Off Everything w/ October 2014 Coupons, Discount & Promo Codes

Or here http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5055807

Or here Advance Auto Parts Coupon: 30% Off Everything w/ October 2014 Coupons, Discount & Promo Codes

 

thanks for the codes! they all have a max of 50 bucks off so with the 15% i got 48$ off and a 25.00 coupon for future purchase, which i may need because well, got it all put back together with new injectors. and it freakin runs the same. when i first started it i was like wow that sounds great. then went to get some gas and guess what, chugging, have to floor it to get going then it hauls butt. this is starting to make me think of selling it. I put almost 300 bucks in it today and it's the same problem. it seems to act up when its warmed up more than cold. when cold i think it runs good. after it gets warmed up it starts acting up. like i get 1/2 way to work or 1/2 way home. or drive around a bit then thats when it starts.

New: plugs/wires, TPS, coil, injectors, intake gasket, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, exhaust, fuel filter, fuel pump (before i got it), tested the fuel pressure, t-stat, coolant temp sensor (both of them) new battery, and probably something else i cant remember.

 

power control module? how would you test that? when the battery went, i had to jump it and my son said that sparks were flying from the positive terminal? not sure if that would do anything. it would not start though we had to have the jumpers hooked up for 10 minutes to get it started.

 

I know you're getting sick of this problem. Hang in there. Have you tried checking your electrical system when it starts acting up? It might be worthwhile to check the alternator output the next time it acts up. Jump starting a car with a weak battery can lead to alternator failure. Alternators aren't meant to charge weak batteries. They're good at keeping batteries topped up, but charging a weak battery puts a big load on the alternator for a long time and that's tough on the voltage regulator and diodes. This might be a long shot, but it's quick and easy to test with a DMM. Test first, don't just replace parts.

I know of a number of people who said that their cars or trucks were running poorly and changed the battery and their car/trucks ran better. Some put in a new alternator and said it ran even better than that. There were no codes or alternator lights.

 

Good grief, when it rains, it pours on you, kinda like little Henry in the comics years ago. I can visualize how you must feel that little black storm cloud is right right over your head about now!!!! But as has been said, hang in there, persevere & the forum can likely help you think your way out of this mess.

Anyway lets think about this some more. It seems you have more than one problem, so, seeing as how the battery is new & you said the alternator was replaced in the last year, it would seem you've developed a rather large parasitic electrical drain problem, if the new battery was so completely discharged that it wouldn't even crank the engine after the jumpers were hooked up for 10 minutes. With it discharged that far, it would be common for the jumper cables to arc & spark a good bit when hooking them up, as the new power source would be trying to charge that flat battery with mucho AMPS, not good as has been said.

SO, disconnect the battery B- cable, remove the battery cell caps & check that the plates are fully covered with Distilled water, then using you automatic battery charger, put the battery on a Slow overnight charge of say 4-6 amps, until its fully recharged. A slow recharge rate won't have the battery get hot & warp the plates, or boil the electrolyte, which it & the alternator will appreciate.
As has been said, the alternator isn't designed to be a battery charger, to be used to recharge a completely flat battery, lest they both overheat & destroy each other!!!!!

Once you get the battery on recharge, it seems you need to perform some electrical system parasitic drain testing, to see what's discharging the battery & put that & the battery soc right before continuing your poor running engine trouble shoot.

Having All spark plugs carbon fouled in just One cyl bank, suggest that the O2 sensor for that cyl bank is providing the computer with corrupt feedback for some reason. SO, carefully check the rich running cyl bank O2 sensor wiring for skinned insulation, broken wire strands to the O2 sensor electrical connector & its electrical connector for bent pins, spread sockets, or corrosion on the contacts.
Check that the replacement O2 sensors are the correct design. Some O2 sensors must breathe between their wire strands & the leads insulation, to provide a reference bias voltage, so if the wrong design replacement O2 sensor, or its wires have been messed with, like rtv up to fix skinned insulation, or someone applied a wad of silicone grease inside the electrical connector, it'll interrupt that reference air flow & corrupt the O2 sensor PID to the computer about true O2 content in the exhaust flow & that can cause the computer to corrupt fuel injector control to All fuel injectors in a cyl bank, all a vicious circle.
Make sure that the exhaust manifold leak on that cyl bank is still fixed.

Re-scan the computer for trouble codes & post up All code Numbers that you now have. We are to work & put right, the lowest number trouble codes first.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Most parts stores can test the ICM = Ignition Control Module. Do you have a trouble code for it????
Has the PCV valve ever been replaced, if not I replace it, doesn't cost much, is a scheduled maintenance item that's past due for replacement & its downstream of the MAF sensor. So any additional airflow through leaks in the system, won't be detected, so if it acts out & sticks open, or its rubber hose or grommet are loose fitting, torn & leaking air, it'll corrupt the air/fuel ratio.
If you have, or can come by a scantool that'll hook up to your OBD-1 under hood DLC & it can display live PID's hook it up & monitor both cyl banks fuel trim & post up the Numbers, along with an updated computer trouble code scan. Also have it look at the TPS, as the computer was unhappy with it at one time.
Get the discharged battery problem put right first, then perform an electrical load test on the charging system to make sure all is well there, then scan for codes & measure fuel trim.

 

well i got home and i was going to take out the pcm to have it tested or at least look at it as i've seen posts where the back of the module was corroded. my wife comes out and says close the hood and take a break tonight you've been out here all week. I said ok i just want to put this back together then. so i put it together and took it for a ride. started off fine as usual but this time instead of bucking and chugging it lost power. before if i floored it it would take off. now if i floor it it loses power and sounds like just air rushing out the exhaust. Now i'm like crap, i'm taking this in. I have lost inspiration and just want this fixed. I think i'm taking her into a shop.

 

I understand your frustration, but don't give up yet. Since it seems to be a temperature sensitive problem, there are several more no cost trouble shooting things to try in isolating the acting out component.
Did you get the battery fully recharged & find out what caused it to discharge????
Did you ever perform a fuel pump volume delivery over time check???? It should pump 1/2 pint/15 seconds.

 

nobody around here will test the ecm. i pulled it out and took the top off. based on what i found i'm going to order one from rock auto. i found information about bad caps. here are a few pics of mine:





notice the yellow top and milky side

 

The #2 cap photo seems to show a brown residue that's run out the bottom & to the upper left center of the photo, between the two sets of diamond shaped solder pads, where it stops in a puddle. Sorta brown like heated/cooked solder resin would look. If it hasn't been replaced, then it looks like the cap has been running hot & overheated & maybe cause the kind of driveability scenario your having, with it acting out worse after running for a while & warming up.
Your circuit board solder connections look Way better than the ones on my 94 Taurus ECM board looked. About 90% of them were cold solder/frosty looking, way too many for me to reheat & reflow the solder on all, so I just did the worst looking ones, but no joy, a reman ECM finally fixed its random stalling. Let us know how it goes.

 

so this is the latest. I put in the new ecm today. it started right up and idled smooth. as soon as i took off i could tell a difference. felt pretty good. i can tell that when taking off and making a turn take it easy bcuz she'll turn over the tires. then the intermittent miss started again. it starts to miss or choke out, then if you floor it, it picks up again. engine light came on so i go home and check. got codes 173 , 176 and 177.

then i made sure everything was on. checked the fuel pressure. turn the key on the pressure is @40, start the truck and it drops to 30. haynes manual says key on engine off should be 35-45 psi, which it is. and running it should be 25-35 psi, which it is. then unplugging the vacuum hose it should be 35-45 and it is 40 psi. everything looks good there.

so i go for another ride and it rides fine for a while, then it chugs and i would call it a miss except i get no miss codes. it just chugs and feels rough, then if you give it the gas it picks up and runs fine for a while and keeps doing this.

I'm sure the new ECM has made a difference. however i'm kinda where i was before again.

after i got back i checked the codes again and now i have 172,173,176,177