12 volt transformer
http://www.antiqueautomobileradio.com/power.htm
Last edited by ddurant; Jul 15, 2003 at 08:16 AM.
RatShack used to sell a 6 to 12V converter even into the 80's that would handle 50-60 watts of draw. Ive seen them on EBay for $15-20. If you use one of them or a current version you will still need to switch to negative ground. No big deal, reverse coil wires, ampmeter and repolarize the genny.
I get around the issue in my 53 Vicky by having a 12V car battery in the trunk to run the 12V radio in the dash. It lasts a few months on a single charge with moderate driving, and I dont use an amp.
The F350 doesnt have a radio; couldnt hear it anyway!
i want to but a modern radio in my 6 volt positive ground truck. has anybody had any luck with these step up transformers. if so what brand? i found these but don't know how well they work. do you think it could run a cd changer?
http://www.antiqueautomobileradio.com/power.htm
The PGPI or PGPI-HC will work just fine for your application since the radio is primarily a resistive load with an inductive inrush. They are designed to do exactly what you want. The only issue is what the current draw on the radio is. Now, a modern transistor radio would generally be pressed to draw more than 500 mA at 12 V but the old tube jobs - that's a whole different story. I was told I didn't need a heater if I just kept the radio on.
Sounds like you are using a modern radio so you might be able to just get the manufacturer's specs for current draw and choose the PGPI unit if it's less than about 1 A, or the PGPI-HC if it's less than about 2 A. If you need more than 2 A at 12 V for your radio, then you probably have to build an inverter from parts, although you might find a higher output unit from a different source as Carl mentioned. It is possible to build a unit from parts that will put out 50 A at 12 V, if you think you really need that much current.
how do i handle the positive ground. the new radio has a ground wire, but what if the radio case comes in contact with the body.
i am thanking about putting it in the glove box so it is hidden, that way it should not come in contact with metal.
IF (IF, IF, IF!!!) I read the advertisement correctly, you don't need to worry about the ground.
Think about it like this. Your truck frame, engine block, dash, etc. are all at some electric potential (voltage) - let's call it X. That potential will also include the radio case (bolt it right to the frame). The negtive terminal on your battery, and all the stuff that's connected to it, are at X minus 6 V. The inverter you buy will have a wire coming out of it that is at X plus 12 V. That's the one you run to the power input on your radio. Sooooo, you'll have three potentials on your truck:
X minus 6 = (ignition, gages, headlights, etc.)
X = (frame, cab, engine block)
X plus 12 = (radio power input, other 12 V plus accessories)
Sound OK?
Oh yeah - one more thing. If you are used to thinking about your truck as having just ground and hot wires - make sure you don't go confusing the two hot (minus 6 V and plus 12 V) wires you'll have or the wires may really become HOT! You might want to spend a couple bucks and get some weird color wire for the plus 12 V.
Last edited by Earl; Jul 16, 2003 at 08:18 AM.






