millimeter on a FORD
Bed removal?
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Bed removal?
I honestly feel like this is a stupid question.... but I am taking the bed off my 95 350 and the only way to get to the bottom of the bolt is to drop both gas tanks??
Does anyone have an easier way to remove the bed bolts?? I've been told to use a torx bit but the top of the bolt head is a dome.
Is this normal????
Does anyone have an easier way to remove the bed bolts?? I've been told to use a torx bit but the top of the bolt head is a dome.
Is this normal????
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Menifee, CA
I honestly feel like this is a stupid question.... but I am taking the bed off my 95 350 and the only way to get to the bottom of the bolt is to drop both gas tanks??
Does anyone have an easier way to remove the bed bolts?? I've been told to use a torx bit but the top of the bolt head is a dome.
Is this normal????
Does anyone have an easier way to remove the bed bolts?? I've been told to use a torx bit but the top of the bolt head is a dome.
Is this normal????
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If they are original the bolts will have an oblong flange just under the head so they wont turn in place while you tighten or loosen. I didnt need to drop the gas tanks to take it off, just a long extension with a swivel attachment to the socket. Also if it hasnt come off in ages, sone PB Blaster to the threads and nuts is a good idea.
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From: Menifee, CA
no, if they are the dumb head with no recess for an allen bolt, or a Torx bit, I would assume they are original. Like I said the head will be dumb shaped and just under the head you can't see it because the shaft goes into the bed, but there is an oblong flange that will hold the bolt in place.mine are original and are also the dome shape with no recess for any type of attachment for a driver.
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no, if they are the dumb head with no recess for an allen bolt, or a Torx bit, I would assume they are original. Like I said the head will be dumb shaped and just under the head you can't see it because the shaft goes into the bed, but there is an oblong flange that will hold the bolt in place.mine are original and are also the dome shape with no recess for any type of attachment for a driver.
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Nuts on bottom side are 3/4 since the bolts are 1/2" A Long extension and a swivel is what needs to be used to gain access to them. NO GAS TANK REMVAL NEEDED
Lube the bolts really good. The bolts are a carriage style bolt that will spin in the sheet metal if the nuts are froze. If that happens, weld nuts to the bolt head(that way you can hold it with a wrench and loosen the nuts). Then you can put regular hex head bolts in to replace them
Lube the bolts really good. The bolts are a carriage style bolt that will spin in the sheet metal if the nuts are froze. If that happens, weld nuts to the bolt head(that way you can hold it with a wrench and loosen the nuts). Then you can put regular hex head bolts in to replace them
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From: SW VA
I recently removed the engine, trans, and front clip from my '88 F350. There was a mix of Metric and SAE. I even had a 5.5mm in there somewhere. I've never had so many tools out to do an engine swap before in my life!
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From: Menifee, CA
Maybe those 87-91 trucks were limbo years. I've only used metric as far as I know on mine. Brad said the nuts on the bed bolts are 3/4. I used 19mm. 3/4 converted is 19.05mm. So maybe I've used the wrong size sockets in some spots where I didn't know. I'll have to keep that in mind.
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