I spray on Fluid Film and it seems to have done a nice job, but I also don't drive my truck in the winter but a handful of times. Every year I coat the underside and all the pinch seams. Some swear by it and others hate the product. I now have a used Ford escape compared to the used cars so I don't need the truck for 4x4 in the winter. So as long as I can get my garage organized in it goes for a 4-5 month hibernation. Keeping it out of the salt is truly the only way to try and prevent further detrimental rusting. Those that are forced to drive in those conditions I really feel is just a losing battle.... I'm going to load up that escape with fluid film and see how it does. It is losing its battle already with the rust but it is my commuting/winter vehicle anyways. I applaud those who completely take apart their vehicles and repair them. I'd rather just garage the good one and buy a cheap one. If you live in a rusty area, to have any good longevity to a vehicle it needs to take the winters off. To each their own though.


I found that each of my doors were starting to rust in a peculiar spot. I noticed rust at the at the bottom of window opening in the corner where the window molding piece is. Every window had a varying degree of corrosion that was hidden by that piece. I also hope that keeping it off the winter roads will make it easier to take apart when repairs are needing and reduce the effort needed to take apart rusty bolts.

 

what brand bar and chain oil are you folks using in the air driven spray can? I read some reviews and for under coating use....there seems to be some inconsistantcy in the sprayability of this stuff. A lot of folks are saying their cans spit and sputter the bar and chain oil rather than spray type mist or stream.

I bought the pro version of the fluid film specific spray can which claims 70 to 90 PSI and is modified for fluid film. Will play around with some used 0W30 motor and tranning fluid to see how it applies.

main problem with all these oil based applications is the run off and pool collection. DEP likes to write tickets for this type of stuff. so sometype of paper layment is going to be needed.

 

I am a die hard ford man and will more than likely never own anything but a ford, but I have to say that I am less than impressed with their rust protection over the last 35 years. 79 seems to be the last year they built a truck that wouldn't rust through in under 10 years. My bronco needs a new tailgate and quarter panel, my sd had the brake lines and rear differential cover rust through and the bed rails are looking rough, my van needs new quarter panelsand there is a rust hole the size of a football under the carpet in the cargo area and my dad just sold an obs f150 that the fender wells rusted through on. I had a 91 Mazda b2000 that was used in the same conditions and when I sold it with 200k miles on it there wasn't a spot of rust on it anywhere. I have just started spraying the used oil from my oil changes on the undercarriage and will see how that works.

 

I am using County Line from tractor Supply: CountyLine® Bar-n-Chain Oil, 1 gal. - Tractor Supply Co.

Spitting and sputtering is exactly how it comes out. But it still shoots out of the gun. Bed liner comes out the same way. I is a style of gun for thicker or viscous liquid. A regular pain gun would never work unless you thinned the oil way down, but you want the oil to stick.

I imagine you could brush or roll the oil on, but spraying seemed easier to me.

I sprayed at 50 psi. I tried it at higher pressure, but to me it just made more noise.

I have left my truck in the driveway sitting on cardboard for the past two days to catch the run-off. You are right about the pooling, but the where the bar and chain oil ran off, it left behind a slippery film. It is my understanding that this is the protection from road grime, not the liquid itself.

 

I agree. My Ranger has had isolated rust problems... floor pan, front fenders, radiator core support and mounts, and rear cab mounts.

But I have to ask... has the rust protection got worse or the use of salt and brine have increased dramatically since 99% of the country loses their marbles at the sight of 1/2" of snow???

 

I think it is both, honestly. They salt our roads here if they even call for snow and the salt is usually thicker than the snow. But at the same time, my Mazda drove in those same conditions and never had one problem with rust. I also spent a lot of time in that Mazda driving on the beach and slinging salt water on it. It didn't have a bit of power, but in 200k miles all I had to do was oil changes and spark plugs.

 

Friend and I are going to get our CC LBs done with Fluid Film. Local guy does it for ~$200. My truck is brand new and buddy's is a year old. Just do it now. I'm a bit nervous about altering my brand new truck, but I don't want to looking like my 96 F250 after five years either.

 

I have sprayed 90wt. gear oil thinned with gasoline (yeah, flammable) on cars in Michigan. The gasoline helps make the 90wt. thin enough to spray, and creep into door seams, etc. When the gasoline evaporates, it leaves a 90wt. film behind that collects dust and forms a gooey rust barrier. Bar and chain oil is a good idea, due to its additives, but is closer to 30wt, as far as its viscosity.

90wt. does stink, so consider how you use it in parts that are in contact with the passenger compartment.

Broadly speaking, rustproofing is not something you 'do once' - you have to review the vehicle yearly and do touch-ups.

 

Agreed. I would make sure the gasoline doesn't get on the exhaust system

Gear lube is nice and sticky, but it does have quite the odor. The bar and chain has little to no odor that I can notice.

 

I am restoring a 79 f150 for my son(less rust than the underside of my sd) and I am going to pull the bed and cab and sandblast the frame rails and paint them and then paint the underside of the bed and cab as well. As much as these things cost you would think they would do that from the factory. An extra quart or two of paint wouldn't cost that much.....

 

Yea, but times that by how trucks that are built in a year?

My Volvo is a 2001 and it came from the factory with who knows what on it. There isn't a spec of rust anywhere on the vehicle. It came from the factory with some rubber stuff on the unibody which has lasted going on 14 New England winters.

Nowadays its all about providing less with charging more. It sucks.

"They don't make things like they used."

 

I just ordered a fluid film gun and will do the same with used motor oil or tranny fluid. will add some zinc dust to the oil to see how that works out.

need to figure out how to catch the run off.....

 

They sell a lot of vehicles, so it is a lot of extra paint, but I can buy two quarts of paint for $50. They buy theirs in bulk and can probably get it for a tenth of what I pay for it. It might cost them $5 in paint, which is nothing on a $50k truck.

I couldn't help you on the run off. Big farm, private road, no neighbors, etc . Might could lat a tarp down and drive on it, spray, then let it drip on the tarp for a day or two.

 

You could use a tarp or thick plastic. Drive the truck on it and spread oil dry or kitty litter all over it. That will absorb the oil. Back the truck off, roll it up, and dispose.

What would the zinc do? I know it works well when plated, but no sure in oil.

 

Here is the Monstaliner I am using as undercoat under the Ranger floorboard. I sprayed it on last night. I am goin to spray bar and chain oil onto this on Sunday: