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The main difference between Holley carbs are the 4150 vs 4160 types. The 4150 is
the more expensive type having a metering block on both sides of the body. The 4160 has a plate on the secondary side that handles the fuel metering.
You can swap fuel bowl types on either carb type but the feed to the secondary side
will be different depending on which arrangement is used to feed fuel to the
secondary side. The 4150 will use a longer tube for the side type bowls as well
as a longer fuel delivery arrangement for center type bowls.
Thanks guys. Turns out The Okie didn't have a 750 carb, but it was a good try nonetheless. Thanks, Bruce. So, I talked with another guy that may have one. And, I'm watching CL and eBay. Who knows.
As for swapping bowls, I was just curious. Thanks for the input.
I think I have the problem solved. Am going to look at these carbs tomorrow. The Holley says 3310-2, which should be a 750 CFM 1460, so my parts should mix and match to work in case there's a problem - like replacing the missing choke. And the Carter says 9625, which means it is a 625 CFM 9000 series AFB.
So, I should be able to create a 750 CFM Holley and the kit I have is supposed to fit. Then if the guy comes up with a good 600 CFM Summit carb I'll swap and be able to do the testing.
Hopefully there isn't another Holley as bad as that one. It is just truly junk.
Anyway, just came up with a potential problem. As you can see in the pic the 750 Holley doesn't have a choke - he says it came from a boat, but all the boats I've seen have chokes. Anyway, I don't see how to get the choke butterfly out of the one I have. Here's a view of the end of the shaft, and I could grind the braded-over part off to get the arm off.
But, the butterfly doesn't have screws. Instead it has raised spots that hold it in the shaft.
And, the end of the shaft where the arm is doesn't appear to be split.
Gary that 3310-2 looks like a 4150 in the pictures. It looks like it has a secondary
metering block instead of the plate. It also seems to be all metal. It looks to me
like the price is really good for all the carbs.
The book says a 3310-2 is a 4160, but that sure does look like it has a secondary metering block like a 4150. Would that increase the value?
Speaking of value, I am getting all three for $80, which is a good price for the Carter and an excellent price for the Holley - if it is usable. And, by usable I mean if I can get a choke on it.
It could have been upgraded as Holley offered a kit to it. It would be worth more
as the 4150 has a secondary metering block that can be tuned by just changing
jets just like the primary side can be. Just be aware that there is a difference in
the fuel feed for a 4150 vs a 4160 Holley carb.
As far as fuel lines the only difference is the additional length required from the
primary side to the secondary side.
On side hung float bowls Holley makes 2 different length tubes to transfer the fuel.
On center hung float bowls like your carb has there have been a lot of different
confiqurations used as most would hook up on the right hand side of the carb.
The only other real difference is a rebuild kit. Make sure you get one the supports
a 4150 carb.
I already have a kit that fits the 4160's. It was given to me so I'd like to use it to keep the cost down on this endeavor as the goal is to get the carb ready and swap it. So, maybe the gaskets for the bowl and metering block on the secondary side will be good, as I think that's going to be the difference since this carb says 3310-2, which is a 4160. I found the kit in the book last night that converts it to a secondary metering block, and it is basically the block, longer bowl screws, and different gaskets.
But, no ideas on how to swap the choke from one nobody to another? Or, more specifically, to get it off the flakey body in a way it can be out on the other?
Ok, guys. I really do need some thoughts here. I got the butterfly and shaft out. Have Dremel, will travel:
But, as you can see in the yellow ovals, the slots in the shaft don't carry to the end of the shaft. Obviously I need to get the butterfly out to be able to install the shaft. So, what about slitting the shaft to the end and sliding the butterfly out? The housing will hold the shaft together when it goes in the "new" carb, so????
The only other option I can think of is to flatten the "bump" in the butterfly enough to get it out of the shaft. But, that is likely to deform the butterfly. And, even if it doesn't it would mean either drilling, tapping, and using screws to retain the butterfly, or re-bumping it in the carb.
I'll PM him.