7.3L PSD Questions
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Comox, BC. Canada
7.3L PSD Questions
I have a few questions..
I am contemplating a 7.3 PSD, I know nothing about Ford Trucks..
The truck is a 1997 F250 4x4, 5spd Turbo PSD.
What can I expect for Fuel economy from a 7.3L PSD on the highway, as 80% of my driving is highway. I work over 200 km (100m) from home(one way), I commute twice a week. I will be using the 4x4, as logging roads criss ross the Island I live on..
What kind of problems can I expect?? What questions should I ask when I see it. What is the expected life span on Glow plugs??
It has a little rust on the fenders, When I go see it (tomorrow), I'll be looking for other rust.. It has a new clutch & pressure plate,
The truck has 333,000km (205,000mi) sitting on 35" tires and has a tow package.
Does anyone know how hard/easy it is to convert a truck to VO / WVO??
I am contemplating a 7.3 PSD, I know nothing about Ford Trucks..
The truck is a 1997 F250 4x4, 5spd Turbo PSD.
What can I expect for Fuel economy from a 7.3L PSD on the highway, as 80% of my driving is highway. I work over 200 km (100m) from home(one way), I commute twice a week. I will be using the 4x4, as logging roads criss ross the Island I live on..
What kind of problems can I expect?? What questions should I ask when I see it. What is the expected life span on Glow plugs??
It has a little rust on the fenders, When I go see it (tomorrow), I'll be looking for other rust.. It has a new clutch & pressure plate,
The truck has 333,000km (205,000mi) sitting on 35" tires and has a tow package.
Does anyone know how hard/easy it is to convert a truck to VO / WVO??
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
16-18hwy mileage. Maybe a little better if everything is working well, has no leaks, etc. Maybe worse if there are issues. 4.10 gearing runs higher rpm's and makes a little less mileage than a truck with 3.55's.
When you look at it, its always good to see it before its been started for the first time that day. Cold start will tell you some things. Does it smoke, gp's working if its colder, etc. Gp life is hard to say. They aren't hard to replace if the ones in it are motorcrafts and no autolites (they swell in the head and can be a bear to get out), and are only about 100 bucks.
Look in the valley of the motor for fuel or oil. That is where leaks show up first, then drain down the pass rear side of the motor through a hole if there are any big enough.
There is a check list for buyers around, maybe someone will post it up. I don't have it saved.
As for problems, you never know. It is almost 20 years old, and if you don't know the previous maintenance done and how well it was taken care of, its like any other used vehicle. The motor and 5 speed are awful reliable. Always can have little things pop up.
There is also a forum about alternative fuels on fte, maybe check that out. I don't know.
When you look at it, its always good to see it before its been started for the first time that day. Cold start will tell you some things. Does it smoke, gp's working if its colder, etc. Gp life is hard to say. They aren't hard to replace if the ones in it are motorcrafts and no autolites (they swell in the head and can be a bear to get out), and are only about 100 bucks.
Look in the valley of the motor for fuel or oil. That is where leaks show up first, then drain down the pass rear side of the motor through a hole if there are any big enough.
There is a check list for buyers around, maybe someone will post it up. I don't have it saved.
As for problems, you never know. It is almost 20 years old, and if you don't know the previous maintenance done and how well it was taken care of, its like any other used vehicle. The motor and 5 speed are awful reliable. Always can have little things pop up.
There is also a forum about alternative fuels on fte, maybe check that out. I don't know.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 4
These trucks have a very good reputation perhaps that's why your looking at a psd rather than another brand; that being said there are a lot to them and they can prove difficult to diagnose w/out the proper tools. My best advise for you is making sure you have an understanding oh how the previous owners have maintained the truck and base your decision on that, (warm fuzzy feeling). If you know anyone firmiliar with these bring them to help you poke around. If your a shade tree mechanic than these can be entertaining to mess around with but if your not and the truck has pre-existing conditions, it could be daunting. Understanding how a proper tranny shifts when looking at one of these is a help too as IMHO the points are kinda weird. Just like buying any automobile (except maybe a new one) you should look at and drive more than one especially if your not keen on how the go/stop/start etc.... Also, keep an eye out for oil cooler leaks, drivers side of the engine, not a big job; just be aware..
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Comox, BC. Canada
Being that this truck is a 1997, will my OBDII Code Reader work?? \
@Coreyallan: I'm not looking at the truck b/c it is a PSD, I am looking at the truck b/c it is in my price range (cash on hand), and it is a diesel. Diesel in Canada is more expensive then gas, but with twice the range from diesel, plus Bio options available to me more readily than 100% ethanol is, and building an engine able to get maximum performance out of ethanol is out of the question.
@FordPride: WOW.. Thank you
@Coreyallan: I'm not looking at the truck b/c it is a PSD, I am looking at the truck b/c it is in my price range (cash on hand), and it is a diesel. Diesel in Canada is more expensive then gas, but with twice the range from diesel, plus Bio options available to me more readily than 100% ethanol is, and building an engine able to get maximum performance out of ethanol is out of the question.
@FordPride: WOW.. Thank you
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New User
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From: Comox, BC. Canada
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