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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 06:45 PM
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Cam HELP!

Getting ready to rebuild 390 and was hoping to get some suggestions from you cam experts out there. I'm not an expert and need help picking out the right cam. I have a 69' f100 with 3.50 rear end and a c6 trans. Haven't picked out anything for my rebuild yet, but was thinking of going with rpm intake, 600 cfm carb, and would like to use the stock heads. I want decent fuel mileage and low end power. I drive this daily around town. I want it to throw me back in the seat from 0-40mph. If I give her hell, I want to break the tires loose with ease. Don't care about a obnoxious amount of horsepower or high top end speeds or times. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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This is kind of what I've been thinking. Lunati Voodoo 256/262 Advertised Duration, .524/.540 Lift........or something similar from crane, sealed power, etc. Would I have to change valves, springs, etc. with this cam?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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Comp cams xe268 or something along those lines.
Mine had the Edelbrock performer cam when I got it. It is okay, but playing with the engine dyno programs I'm certain I'd have better top end and mileage with the 268.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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I have the Lunati 62001 kit in mine , runs real strong , but in hind site wish i would have went with the 62002 little more HP , little more lope to cam .
 
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Old Sep 16, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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always get the Kit !
 
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Old Sep 16, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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dig through this thread for cam numbers and DD5 chart
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-accurate.html
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 08:09 AM
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Dyno programs are only as reliable as the data. Desktop dyno makes a lot of assumptions. I only read the first page but it seems little has changed since the version I got a few years ago.

Engine analyzer pro is pretty close, but if you don't double check the numbers it is still easy to get bad output.

Look at the torque curve below 2000rpm on those graphs. It is flat. Doesn't work that way.

Edit:I read the rest of it, pretty much the same it was years ago, the base it starts from is fixed, so low rpm power is optimistic, this skews the numbers high throughout the rpm range. It is a useful tool, just know that it isn't a perfect tool.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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no sim is going to be 100% accurate , but for $49 DD5 is a great tool for helping to put a motor together .
if you you only read 1 page of the 174 page manual you missed alot !
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:28 AM
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I meant I read the first page of the thread. I finished the thread. The program makes some assumptions, which is why it doesn't cost a ton of cash.

It is good enough, but just know it is optimistic. If you buy a converter based on those numbers you probably won't be happy with the outcome.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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I spoke with Lunati yesterday and they did recommend the 62002. I think I am going to go with the entire kit. Thanks for all your input. Now to get this thing to the machine shop!
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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What compression ratio do you plan to go with ?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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What ever my engine guy tells me.................you have recommendations? Or was I supposed to know that before going with a cam? I'm not an expert. I am trying to get info from people who have been through this before and then going to discuss with a friend who builds engines.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 03:01 PM
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WITH THE 62002 you want 9.5:1 to 10.5:1
I run my truck on mid grade unleaded with out ping , more C/R the better TQ and HP
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 03:09 PM
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I'm not sure and I'm up for suggestions. I know how to put a motor together, but not much about the specs to choose parts for the build (this is my first FE). I've always relied on others to help me choose and the machine shop to do the machining. I've only assembled 2 small blocks (both still run hard and have had no problems).
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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So what do I need for pistons to accomplish something in that ratio range? The heads are stock from a 1969 390 (I'm sitting at work, so I'm not by them to check #'s).
 
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