Those who check their own anti freeze?
#1
Those who check their own anti freeze?
OK, this question is for those who do their own checking of anti freeze for the RA level and Contamination test.
The kit explains how to do the test pretty well which I followed.
In step 1 you remove some anti freeze from the radiator/coolant reservoir using the provided syringe and tubing.
Next you insert a RA test strip for 2 seconds, then one shake to remove the excess and allow to sit for 30 seconds before matching the color to the provided color chart.
The color chart tells you if you are low on RA and also which colored cap container to insert anti freeze into to check for contamination issues. After doing so and shaking for 15 seconds you then insert a contamination test strip wait the allotted time and match colors once again which tells you if there is any contamination issues.
Yesterday I did the radiator which gave me a low brownish orange reading showing low for the RA level. I used the correct color cap for the contamination check which showed no issues.
This morning I went out to do cooling system number 2 and in the process of doing so looked over to the test strips from yesterday and noticed that the RA strip was now green which would mean that the RA is OK and not low.
So I am wondering if anyone else has noticed anything along this line?
Has anyone performed the test and had a RA strip turn green after the allotted wait time.
When adding RA additive to the system, I assume you just pour it in? Would you add a quart to each system or split a quart between the two systems.
Why can't diesels be simple any more as in the old days, but then that is another story for another time.
The kit explains how to do the test pretty well which I followed.
In step 1 you remove some anti freeze from the radiator/coolant reservoir using the provided syringe and tubing.
Next you insert a RA test strip for 2 seconds, then one shake to remove the excess and allow to sit for 30 seconds before matching the color to the provided color chart.
The color chart tells you if you are low on RA and also which colored cap container to insert anti freeze into to check for contamination issues. After doing so and shaking for 15 seconds you then insert a contamination test strip wait the allotted time and match colors once again which tells you if there is any contamination issues.
Yesterday I did the radiator which gave me a low brownish orange reading showing low for the RA level. I used the correct color cap for the contamination check which showed no issues.
This morning I went out to do cooling system number 2 and in the process of doing so looked over to the test strips from yesterday and noticed that the RA strip was now green which would mean that the RA is OK and not low.
So I am wondering if anyone else has noticed anything along this line?
Has anyone performed the test and had a RA strip turn green after the allotted wait time.
When adding RA additive to the system, I assume you just pour it in? Would you add a quart to each system or split a quart between the two systems.
Why can't diesels be simple any more as in the old days, but then that is another story for another time.
#2
OK, this question is for those who do their own checking of anti freeze for the RA level and Contamination test.
The kit explains how to do the test pretty well which I followed.
In step 1 you remove some anti freeze from the radiator/coolant reservoir using the provided syringe and tubing.
Next you insert a RA test strip for 2 seconds, then one shake to remove the excess and allow to sit for 30 seconds before matching the color to the provided color chart.
The color chart tells you if you are low on RA and also which colored cap container to insert anti freeze into to check for contamination issues. After doing so and shaking for 15 seconds you then insert a contamination test strip wait the allotted time and match colors once again which tells you if there is any contamination issues.
Yesterday I did the radiator which gave me a low brownish orange reading showing low for the RA level. I used the correct color cap for the contamination check which showed no issues.
This morning I went out to do cooling system number 2 and in the process of doing so looked over to the test strips from yesterday and noticed that the RA strip was now green which would mean that the RA is OK and not low.
So I am wondering if anyone else has noticed anything along this line?
Has anyone performed the test and had a RA strip turn green after the allotted wait time.
When adding RA additive to the system, I assume you just pour it in? Would you add a quart to each system or split a quart between the two systems.
Why can't diesels be simple any more as in the old days, but then that is another story for another time.
The kit explains how to do the test pretty well which I followed.
In step 1 you remove some anti freeze from the radiator/coolant reservoir using the provided syringe and tubing.
Next you insert a RA test strip for 2 seconds, then one shake to remove the excess and allow to sit for 30 seconds before matching the color to the provided color chart.
The color chart tells you if you are low on RA and also which colored cap container to insert anti freeze into to check for contamination issues. After doing so and shaking for 15 seconds you then insert a contamination test strip wait the allotted time and match colors once again which tells you if there is any contamination issues.
Yesterday I did the radiator which gave me a low brownish orange reading showing low for the RA level. I used the correct color cap for the contamination check which showed no issues.
This morning I went out to do cooling system number 2 and in the process of doing so looked over to the test strips from yesterday and noticed that the RA strip was now green which would mean that the RA is OK and not low.
So I am wondering if anyone else has noticed anything along this line?
Has anyone performed the test and had a RA strip turn green after the allotted wait time.
When adding RA additive to the system, I assume you just pour it in? Would you add a quart to each system or split a quart between the two systems.
Why can't diesels be simple any more as in the old days, but then that is another story for another time.
The test strips will eventually all turn to a default color after the allotted time, That's why there is a specific time called for.
The antifreeze test strips and tests have been around a long time.
I first learned about testing for nitrates and additives, when Cummins engines were first used in ag equipment in 1988. Those were the old days !
#4
And yes, the test strips dry off and return to a default color. You don't need to do anything if you pass the second test...
Done many of these tests with a Diesel master tech, because the oil change level dude tested my coolant wrong and then put the wrong additive in. When I had my 2011 serviced. After that I did a lot of babysitting of the techs when they did general maintenance and they owed me free coolant checks.
#5
#6
Having read a number of debated threads on taking the sample from the top or the lower point I sided with the theory of the antifreeze circulates through out the system. If it is contaminated at the block is would be contaminated in the top of the radiator also. So yes, I took my sample as described in the instructions.
However, the instructions give you only a color chart to match test strips colors for test 1 and test 2. However, it didn't give a pass/fail for any but the last test. So based on the reply above, I assume that the Pass/Fail ending conclusion is an all inclusive test result. Meaning that a Pass means Drive On and Hands Off.....for the time being?
However, the instructions give you only a color chart to match test strips colors for test 1 and test 2. However, it didn't give a pass/fail for any but the last test. So based on the reply above, I assume that the Pass/Fail ending conclusion is an all inclusive test result. Meaning that a Pass means Drive On and Hands Off.....for the time being?
#7
Yes, Jonrjen, the pass/fail doesn't come until the end of the test.
You pass - keep on truckin'. You fail, time to replace the fluid. Some people I know just change the fluid every 50k miles and don't bother testing anymore.
IMHO, I like to test because it could be an early indicator you got something else going on that needs to be addressed.
You pass - keep on truckin'. You fail, time to replace the fluid. Some people I know just change the fluid every 50k miles and don't bother testing anymore.
IMHO, I like to test because it could be an early indicator you got something else going on that needs to be addressed.
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binuya
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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11-05-2009 10:29 AM