Engine options to replace 351m
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Swapping a 460 in will eat up your entire engine budget. Little swap parts will add up quickly, on top of the engine and build cost.
Check the gears and change them if needed. 4.56 gears should work well for the 38s you are turning.
After that I would opt for headers, ignition, and an RV style cam for towing. a 400 rotating assembly (higher compression) would make quite a bit of difference if that doesnt satisfy you.
If you end up pulling the heads, spend some time on them with a die grinder. Clean up the castings and it should net a few ponies. Cheap power if you do it yourself!
Check the gears and change them if needed. 4.56 gears should work well for the 38s you are turning.
After that I would opt for headers, ignition, and an RV style cam for towing. a 400 rotating assembly (higher compression) would make quite a bit of difference if that doesnt satisfy you.
If you end up pulling the heads, spend some time on them with a die grinder. Clean up the castings and it should net a few ponies. Cheap power if you do it yourself!
My bad about this but the tires are 33 in in diameter not 38 that was a typo I wasn't paying attention.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Is there a chart somewhere that will show me what gearing should be set for what kind of use. In addition, I use my tuck every day on the highway obviously more often than I tow. Is there a gearing that could get me better mpg on the high way. A 3 speed doesn't sound very fuel efficient at higher speeds unless it is set right. Btw @gatorfor88 that "midnight modified" ford 400 looks great! How much would a set up like that cost?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Courtenay, B.C.
It sounds like you may have bought the wrong truck for your needs. A jacked up crewcab on 38s will be no good at towing or for mpg. Im betting you have 3.54:1 gears which are FAR too high for 38s. 4.56 would regain much of your ability to get rolling, not sure where you live but where im at a front/rear regear would be close to $2k. EDIT: i see you actually have 33s! 3.54s are ok but 3.73 would be ideal.
Throwing a higher hp engine in wouldnt do much except heat up the transmission faster working against those big tires/high gears. The 351m/400 are definitely not what i would call a performance engine, but here are a few things that people have already said that will make them respectable. Im gonna be different here and recommend a diesel engine swap.
I drive a old worn out 7.3 psd ford crewcab everyday and when i drive my 77f150 4x4 its sad reminder how gutless a 400 is! My psd is also no powerhouse, but at least the 7.3 psd gets twice the mpg towing 7k then the 400 does empty.
Ive seen lots of cheap complete diesel trucks that would be good swap material. Just another suggestion
Throwing a higher hp engine in wouldnt do much except heat up the transmission faster working against those big tires/high gears. The 351m/400 are definitely not what i would call a performance engine, but here are a few things that people have already said that will make them respectable. Im gonna be different here and recommend a diesel engine swap.
I drive a old worn out 7.3 psd ford crewcab everyday and when i drive my 77f150 4x4 its sad reminder how gutless a 400 is! My psd is also no powerhouse, but at least the 7.3 psd gets twice the mpg towing 7k then the 400 does empty.
Ive seen lots of cheap complete diesel trucks that would be good swap material. Just another suggestion
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I live in LA, CA. Ugh strict emissions are a nightmare. But I was planning on regearing my rear axle myself as I plan on doing for everything else. It seems as if I should go with 3.73
Just to be clear, the main reason I want more horsepower and torque is just because I am a man and it is in my blood. Lol. However, just out of curiosity what kind of diesel trucks could I use for swapping. Are there any engines I could just swap in and mount to my c6 tranny?
Just to be clear, the main reason I want more horsepower and torque is just because I am a man and it is in my blood. Lol. However, just out of curiosity what kind of diesel trucks could I use for swapping. Are there any engines I could just swap in and mount to my c6 tranny?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
I live in LA, CA. Ugh strict emissions are a nightmare. But I was planning on regearing my rear axle myself as I plan on doing for everything else. It seems as if I should go with 3.73 Just to be clear, the main reason I want more horsepower and torque is just because I am a man and it is in my blood. Lol. However, just out of curiosity what kind of diesel trucks could I use for swapping. Are there any engines I could just swap in and mount to my c6 tranny?
A 12v cummins motor is the 350 Chevy of the diesel world. It goes in everything and performs well. Only a couple wires to make it run. You could also possibly use a 4bt cummins, but it would be underpowered for you.
If you found an old dodge truck for sale or in the junkyard you could pull engine/trans/Tcase from it and use that.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Tamaroa, IL
I built a mild 400 and couldn't be happier with it. As many have suggested, speak with Tim Meyer. He is the guru of 335 series Fords. I built mine with a custom designed "rebuild" kit from Tim tailored to my exact needs.
Some of the key parts I used were the Keith Black flat top pistons (from Tim) that bumped up the C/R significantly, Comp Cams XE256 Cam, straight up timing double roller chain (very important), flowtech long tubes, wieand stealth aluminum intake, Edelbrock 1806 4bbl 650cfm carb, MSD blaster 2 coil, etc. I have never had the engine on a dyno, but Tim has built several very similar engines and he estimated that mine is making roughly 350hp and 450 ft/lbs.
Link to my engine build: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ld-kits-3.html
Some of the key parts I used were the Keith Black flat top pistons (from Tim) that bumped up the C/R significantly, Comp Cams XE256 Cam, straight up timing double roller chain (very important), flowtech long tubes, wieand stealth aluminum intake, Edelbrock 1806 4bbl 650cfm carb, MSD blaster 2 coil, etc. I have never had the engine on a dyno, but Tim has built several very similar engines and he estimated that mine is making roughly 350hp and 450 ft/lbs.
Link to my engine build: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ld-kits-3.html
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Based off my budget I have two options. First, i want to change the cam. If I have to pull the engine out to do this, I might as well replace other internal parts that would require the engine to be out, the 9.3:1 compression pistons for example. And other parts as well. My other idea was to change the cam, cylinder head, and intake manifold. After doing a little research on this, I was wondering what you guys thought of the edelbrock ford 351m performer rpm aluminum heads with the edelbrock performer rpm airgap aluminum intake manifold. If this were to work however, would I need a new carb? One bigger than my 600cfm that I currently have? And then lastly a cam. I know there are different cams out there for what you want to do so maybe a performance cam that has a good all around use.
Btw @fordcrzymike I read you forum on your rebuild and that is really cool. I am impressed. Is there way that I can get in touch with Tim Meyer?
Btw @fordcrzymike I read you forum on your rebuild and that is really cool. I am impressed. Is there way that I can get in touch with Tim Meyer?
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Before you spend a wad of $$ on aluminum heads for a daily driver, all things being equal iron heads make more power. Now thats not to say you cant get more power out of aluminum heads, but you start getting into some serious $$ changing ports, valve angles, etc. And alot of times you also have to buy special intakes and headers to fit said heads.
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