Ok, Here we go. I've been on here for a few yrs. Started out a few yrs back with a 50 f1. Hence the log in name. But now I have a 79 Bronco with a 351m in it that is worn out. I found a rebuilt 400 and bought it. Now here comes the problem. The 351 has a rear oil sump pump. The 400 has a front sump oil pump. I don't have the 351 pulled out yet. But I pulled the pan off the 400 and it looks like the oil pump will still hang down to far for the 351 pan to work. I was told that all I had to do is take the pickup tube off the 351 and put it on the 400 oil pump and put the oil pan off the 351 on the 400 and it would be alright. Mind you I'm not much of a mechanic when it comes to engines what will or will not work. But there has to be a way to make it work because the 78 and 79 Bronco came out with the 351 and the 400. Am I right or is this just another bind that I've gotten my self into and spent money on an engine that I can't use..... Please HELP..........

 

Never fear. ALL parts will interchange between 351m/400

 

Thanks gatorfor88

 

Yep, pan & pickup tube will work. Look at the dipstick too. Car motors have the 'stick in a different hole, but IIRC all the blocks have the other hole too.

 

Thanks CS79bronco

 

I agree. did the same thing to a friends truck when he made the same change. gotta watch the valve guides on a used motor. just a little heads up. might be good to get em looked at before you have the motor in the truck. weird angle of the valve tends to wollow out the guide and cause oil leaks.

 

When you prime the oil system be sure the drill is in reverse, you may know that already but just a reminder.
Did you get the receipts for the engine build? The only way to tell the difference between a 351m and a 400 is the casting numbers on the crank, you will want to verify that it actually is a 400.

 

Raleigh1 I have a question... will the pump not prime it's self? How do I go about priming it? May be a dumb questiion but I have never done it before.

 

Priming is easy, you need to pull the distributer (make sure to note the direction of the rotor before pulling, it needs to go back in the same position if you don't want to have to reset the timing) and use a drill with a 8-10" extension and 5/16" socket. Run the drill in reverse for several minutes to make sure all the bearings and moving parts get lubricated BEFORE starting the engine. Never start an engine that has been recently built or has sat for an extended period of time with out doing this.

 

Got it thanks, I will do that.......

 

I only say all of this to be on the safe side because you can't just trust anyone that you don't know to do the right thing or that they know what the right thing to do is.

 

That's very true;

 

Tape the socket to the extension.. ...and come distributor reinstall time use a tab of grease to hold the oil pump shaft straight so the distributor goes on without a hitch.

 

Thanks 77&79F250 I'll do that.....