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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
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carguy94
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I think your looking for the pickup in the distributor that's fords crank sensor.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 08:52 PM
  #17  
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ok so that sends a signal to the pcm? so if the pickup was bad than it would be tricking the pcm to think that it needed fuel when it actually doesn't? is there anyway to rule out the pickup sensor? what we were going to do if it had a crankshaft sensor was just disconnect it and see what the results were. im leaning towards pcm BUT dont want to jump to that conclusion.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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you could un plug the distributor. does your cel light up key on. most likely your computer is shorted to be firing the injectors
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 09:46 PM
  #19  
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The key item here is the fuel pumps run continuously most of the time. Sometimes the caps look good but the PCM is still bad.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 10:08 PM
  #20  
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we tested the TFI module, we tested the coil pack and also changed it with a good one just because i had one laying around. tomorrow im going to inspect the ignition. one of the last few times we tried to crank it the fuel pump stayed on for about 10 sec with the key completely removed from the ignition. so were going to look into that, if that shows no results than on to the PCM. hopefully thats not it though...got some results so happy for now...
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 10:09 PM
  #21  
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do not see to much else that would cause a fuel pump to keep running and your injectors to sit their and pulse. rla2005 what do you think about the whole injector thing.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 08:07 AM
  #22  
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The fuel pump relay is energized by the PCM (aka EEC). It supplies a ground when the PCM logic is satisfied. The supply voltage comes from the PCM (aka EEC) power relay. That is energized by the key/ignition switch.

For reference:
Page 1



Page 2


In order for the fuel pump relay to stay energized with the key out is a stuck PCM (aka EEC) relay, a faulty ignition actuator, or a short to a power source AND the fuel pump relay receiving a ground.

Perhaps two issues are going on here. Those relay sockets are known to corrode so it may be worth a shot to also inspect those too. That would not explain why the injectors are always on, that is either a faulty PCM (very weird failure mode) or perhaps more wire integrity issues.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 08:24 AM
  #23  
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Rla:
We inspected the relay sockets because I know they are known to corrode. The only reason I'm leaning for the ignition system is the fact that the fuel pump kept running with the key out. I'm trying to search the interwebs and see what's all behind there as far as switches go. I don't think it's as easy as it being the ignition tumbler. My truck does have tilt steering wheel and I've read that sometimes the tilt wheel messing up the wires/switch. Just an FYI we have switched relays for the EEC and cleaned those connectors. Were going to dig into the ignition actuator today. Last night when we were turning the key to run (but not starting) we had several times where the injectors would not continue to fire...(what we want) this was of course after giggling the ignition switch and messing with the tilt wheel. Well be digging into it here after a bit. At work right now.

Thanks again guys for all by our input!! I'm getting closer, finally!!! after messing with it for months

Rick
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 09:51 AM
  #24  
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It kinda also sounds like the PCM Computer maybe reinitializing.
You can google for Ford Computer reinitializing and there is some information on it.
This can be caused by a power wire shorting to a sensor wire.
Very hard to find the problem if this is the case.
I fought one of these a long time before I found the short in the starter harness going to the O2 sensor.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 10:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by subford
It kinda also sounds like the PCM Computer maybe reinitializing.
You can google for Ford Computer reinitializing and there is some information on it.
This can be caused by a power wire shorting to a sensor wire.
Very hard to find the problem if this is the case.
I fought one of these a long time before I found the short in the starter harness going to the O2 sensor.
I remember that one. Very tough to find!
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #26  
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Is there anywhere to test the PCM? Its not that expensive BUT I want to avoid nickle and dining myself here....
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rf15eagle
Is there anywhere to test the PCM? Its not that expensive BUT I want to avoid nickle and dining myself here....
Not without expensive equipment.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 04:47 PM
  #28  
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Can a shop OR the stealership do it? I'm sure by that point buying a new one wouldn't be to far away fromnthe price of a new one...lol
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #29  
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How do you remove the ignition coil? We've got everything removed but just can't get to those bolts
 
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Old Sep 6, 2014 | 10:41 PM
  #30  
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do you have four bolts holding it on are you talking about the coil or the module. does it look like this
 
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